.
.
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break in is really simple....
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This is how I have always done this (for the last 50 years).
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1.
Prime the oiling system by cranking the bike with the plugs out.
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(need to see oil pressure)
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Start the motor, look for leaks,
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Run the bike for as short of a period as possible, just a minute or two max.

2.
first ride out, allow the bike to warm up by way of some light riding,
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5 mi or so on my way to an area safe to do my WOT pulls.
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Once the bike is up to temp, begin my WOT pulls,
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3rd gear, from 1500-2000 rpms up to 4000,
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coast down (motor braking) to 2000 or so
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and then repeat, 8-10 times.

3.
Stop and let the bike cool.
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After the bike has cooled, take another ride, avoiding constant speeds and rpms.
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Accumulate 50miles or so and change the oil.

4.
Ride moderately for 200mi and again change the oil.
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interesting read here.........
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http://hqperformance.blogspot.com/20...n-and-afr.html
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.

 

Thanks for the advice mud. I'm guessing that procedure was used on carbureted bikes. Sounds like putting the bike on the dyno for break in is probably the way to go for fuel injection, get the afrs right and let them run the rpms up. That's the first thing RC Cycles recommended but I was hesitant on going that route, I guess it just goes against what I thought I knew. They're a very reputable shop and they do this stuff all the time I should just trust them. Thanks again guys. Will there be any reason to go back for another tune after the break in?

 

You can ask RC Cycles this but in my case, no. Bike has run great every since the day I picked it up, although I had to go back after changing my pipes.

 

These performance motor break-in procedures sure do differ than how HD says to do it with a new bike. Of course, during their break-in procedures shaking down the entire bike is part of it. MOCO is probably quite concerned about things coming loose and want people to take it easy in case something does fall off.

But engine wise, strictly engine wise, should a person break their new engine in the same way? A new build is a new build, or is it not?

Just wondering.

 

I'd rather beat on a fresh motor while getting the tune right and monitoring temps etc. than gently ride it untuned.

 

Yea thats what I'm going to do after recent advice and a little reading. I guess I could have saved the $40 on the cable for the tts but oh well. Also need to start looking into finding a trailer to get the bike to the tuner.. She hasn't been on a trailer since she was unpacked from her crate haha. Oh well. Thanks again guys, great advice

 

Before I bought my trailer, I just found a small ditch and rolled the back wheels of my truck down into it and used my dirt bike ramp, rolled the Fat Bob in and strapped down. Of course this assumes you have access to a truck....

 

Haha, you'll have to change your sig line: If it's on a trailer it's either broke, stolen, or getting a Monster of a motor

 

I have a truck but the tailgate sits pretty high. When my buddy wrecked his bike it took 4 of us to get it into the truck, huge pain in the ***. I'll look around, someone I know has got to have a small utility trailer

I know it haha. Broke, stolen or getting ready to fire up a 124 haha

Edit: Ok I figured it out. I talked to RC Cycles and they have a ramp so I'm gonna get the bike in the air on the lift, roll it into the truck and take it out with their ramp. Perfect. No need for a trailer so my sig can stay the way it is haha

 

The thundermax is off the bike and up for sale for anyone interested

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...309-485-a.html