Scratch-X not cutting it - help
#12
RE: Scratch-X not cutting it - help
I've also had really good success with 3M Rubbing Compound for fine scratches and swirl marks.
It can be applied by hand or machine. I use a RO buffer with a foam bonnet and it works great. I don't know what the technical name is but for lack of a better description, the mild abrasives continue to break down to smaller and smaller particles makingit a one step process if you are only removing swirl marks and such. I buff it until it gets oily looking (you will notice the change)and then wipe it off with a microfiber cloth.
It can be applied by hand or machine. I use a RO buffer with a foam bonnet and it works great. I don't know what the technical name is but for lack of a better description, the mild abrasives continue to break down to smaller and smaller particles makingit a one step process if you are only removing swirl marks and such. I buff it until it gets oily looking (you will notice the change)and then wipe it off with a microfiber cloth.
#13
RE: Scratch-X not cutting it - help
ORIGINAL: Little Mike
I've also had really good success with 3M Rubbing Compound for fine scratches and swirl marks.
It can be applied by hand or machine. I use a RO buffer with a foam bonnet and it works great. I don't know what the technical name is but for lack of a better description, the mild abrasives continue to break down to smaller and smaller particles makingit a one step process if you are only removing swirl marks and such. I buff it until it gets oily looking (you will notice the change)and then wipe it off with a microfiber cloth.
I've also had really good success with 3M Rubbing Compound for fine scratches and swirl marks.
It can be applied by hand or machine. I use a RO buffer with a foam bonnet and it works great. I don't know what the technical name is but for lack of a better description, the mild abrasives continue to break down to smaller and smaller particles makingit a one step process if you are only removing swirl marks and such. I buff it until it gets oily looking (you will notice the change)and then wipe it off with a microfiber cloth.
#14
RE: Scratch-X not cutting it - help
I think Scratch X is ok but I tested ALOT of scratch removers on my last black subaru. GX 27, yes the stuff from the infomercial where they scratch the car with the key, was hands down the best I've ever used. I used to be able to get it at walmart....now I can't and I'm almost out!
For a quick but very effective shine i will use this on trouble spots and the use turtle wax express shine. Of course there are better waxes but I love how quick and easy this stuff is with NO hazing on any surface....and it looks great!
For a quick but very effective shine i will use this on trouble spots and the use turtle wax express shine. Of course there are better waxes but I love how quick and easy this stuff is with NO hazing on any surface....and it looks great!
#15
RE: Scratch-X not cutting it - help
http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
I haven't used Zaino yet but i'm waiting on my kit. I know several people uses it on there car and love it
I haven't used Zaino yet but i'm waiting on my kit. I know several people uses it on there car and love it
#17
RE: Scratch-X not cutting it - help
K.. after trying everything else everyone has suggested and finding out that you are not satisfied... do this: (I'm not flaming anyones ideas but I know better)
The very first thing you want to do is determine the cause so as to avoid it in the future.
NEVER USE A POWER WASHER
Wash the bike with flowing water (hose without nozzle)
Don't use those spounges with the green 3m pad on them, use a wool mitt (natural wool)
These swirls and spider-webbing can only be completly removed by machine.
I never use wax... but if you prefer it, use only pure carnuba.
First off, wash the painted area with Dawn dish soap (blue)
Use clean M.F. Towels to dry the area.
Mask off any chrome or areas you don't want the compound flying all over.
Use an orangecutting pad and
CGC-1 ULTRA LIGHT Compound MICRO SCRATCH REMOVER
to buff out the swirls... add the compound to the disk (5-6 dots) and buff until compound disappears (but not beyond that), repeat until desired finish is accomplished.
Next... wash and dry the area again.
Then use this:
Warning: May cause erection!
WET MIRROR FINISH ULTRA SLICK NON-STICK GLOSS MAGNIFIER-Mirror Perfect Reflections
this stuff will make your bike look better than new and add an acylic shield, you apply it with a polishing pad (by hand).
Then use this:
JETseal109-Protection Beyond Need, Shine Beyond Reasonor their "M-Seal"
This seals the work and will really put a big ol' fat smile on yer face.
No waxing... just a factory fresh, deep, deep gloss (almost maintenance free) job.
I know you'll be back here raving after you try it.
Added: These products (as opposed to wax) allow the paint to breath reducing future chances of sub-surface moisture causing a problem... peace out.
The very first thing you want to do is determine the cause so as to avoid it in the future.
NEVER USE A POWER WASHER
Wash the bike with flowing water (hose without nozzle)
Don't use those spounges with the green 3m pad on them, use a wool mitt (natural wool)
These swirls and spider-webbing can only be completly removed by machine.
I never use wax... but if you prefer it, use only pure carnuba.
First off, wash the painted area with Dawn dish soap (blue)
Use clean M.F. Towels to dry the area.
Mask off any chrome or areas you don't want the compound flying all over.
Use an orangecutting pad and
CGC-1 ULTRA LIGHT Compound MICRO SCRATCH REMOVER
to buff out the swirls... add the compound to the disk (5-6 dots) and buff until compound disappears (but not beyond that), repeat until desired finish is accomplished.
Next... wash and dry the area again.
Then use this:
Warning: May cause erection!
WET MIRROR FINISH ULTRA SLICK NON-STICK GLOSS MAGNIFIER-Mirror Perfect Reflections
this stuff will make your bike look better than new and add an acylic shield, you apply it with a polishing pad (by hand).
Then use this:
JETseal109-Protection Beyond Need, Shine Beyond Reasonor their "M-Seal"
This seals the work and will really put a big ol' fat smile on yer face.
No waxing... just a factory fresh, deep, deep gloss (almost maintenance free) job.
I know you'll be back here raving after you try it.
Added: These products (as opposed to wax) allow the paint to breath reducing future chances of sub-surface moisture causing a problem... peace out.
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