Anyone ever suffer from sore neck syndrome after a long haul without a windshield?? yea 70mph and 100 miles will do that. so here's my fix.

Many years ago I had an old Vetter sting sport fairing on my Amen Savior CB750 springer and it looked kinda cool but I also picked up a bat wing fairing really cheap at a yard sale + I had an old vetter Quicksilver fairing still hanging around from an old honda 750 shadow.

So I tried the batwing first and it looked Ok but being a chopper guy thought it was too big and bulky, second I tried the Quicksilver and even after some trimming to get it around the forks there was no way it was goona workout. That just left the sting fairing and if I mounted it at the same angle as the forks it might look cool and be functional

Now the fairing was originally designed to fit over the headlight, No big deal right...Wrong..the American Suspension springer never came with any provisions for mounting a headlight and me being a bit over zealous to get it all together never realized it until after everything was assembled and necessary fasteners locktighted.

So not wanting to go backwards I decided to make a headlight assembly that would mount to the fairing itself.. I tried your common headlight housings but they all stuck out the front for the fairing and my plan is to have a smoked, removable cover over the headlight, The hole for the headlight in the fairing is 7" in diameter But the largest DOT legal headlight I could find was 6" so I thought Hay I like the looks of some of the newer headlights with the halo around them so why not make a halo to fill the gap.

After cutting out a 1/2" thick piece of plexiglass and drilling it for 22 high brightness white LEDs I have my new headlight assembly.

Being a bit of a technical geek I wasn't satisfied with all 22 LEDs just being on or off so I hooked them up to a micro-controller and they do lots of neat tricks, they give the appearance of spinning left or right like chasing Christmas lights at any speed i choose , constant on or off or work off the ignition to flash a different LED with every spark pulse.

 

Being a gearhead from way back I gotta know whats going on with the engine at all times so gauges were in order..But how and where.

I searched the web for more than a month and spoke to several companies and no one had exactly what i wanted. So I split it down the middle.
I picked up a dakota digital all in one speedo unit (the spiked one) and made a custom mount for the handlebars BUT that only gave me part of what I wanted.

I also wanted to measure oil temp, cylinder head temp on both heads. fuel air ratio for both cylinders , transmission temp. or exhaust gas temp as well as air pressure on both sides of the air shocks

Now that teki. geek voice in me said Build it..so off we go I picked up another micro-controller and 8, 4 digit blue LED displays and related sensors
The fairing never came with a inner skin for mounting anything so we grabbed the sheet metal again and made one,

After about 2 weeks fabricating, programming and assembling I now have full gauging.

 

Being that this is a 127c.i. engine it will tend to run hotter so an oil cooler was in order, Now most of the coolers I found were not designed for this big of an engine although they may help they didn't have the capacity I was looking for
so I moved to the automotive style coolers and picked one that fit where i wanted it as well as a thermostat so things don't run too cool.

All my oil and fuel lines are braided stainless steel with real -6AN fittings (no more seeping lines)

One thing that holds true is that if there is no air moving over the cooler or engine then there is no cooling effect, Not a problem unless your stuck in traffic or something but i wanted to cover all the bases, So i built a custom air scoop which covers the oil cooler and houses 3 automatic cooling fans and just for kicks i mounted the horn and 2 HID running/fog lights in it as well.

In the attached pic i mocked up the lights, the one on the left is HID and the one on the right is standard halogen, both lights are identical except for the bulbs..Which one would you choose?


Humm..side view if air scoop wont upload..try that one again later

 

Honestly folks what do you think so far , Likes, dislikes or oops I really screwed up.
Im no professional builder so tips and advice are welcome.

 

an old vetter! i really dig it!!! i am going to be fabbing up a old school rifle to work on mine

 

Thanks JRK5892, An old school rifle, Now that's unique, Hope it works out for ya.
Sounds like your running a pretty stout 95 incher, Just curious whats the cost on the welded & trued crank these days?

 

I wanted to avoid all the wires and cables hanging off the handlebars as much as possible so I ran everything internally and I can tell ya what a pain in the a$$ but we got it.

The clutch was converted to hydraulic control so I could run the 1/8" micro-line as well as running micro-line to the front brakes.
I have heard many people ask If the hydraulic clutch had an easier pull than a cable clutch and my answer is Yes. Hydraulic only took half the effort vs the cable clutch.
As for the brake I ran dual lines through the handlebars rather than a single line then a splitter on the forks. In my opinion splitter = more cost, more chance for leaking.

the rest of the controls were pretty standard, brake light switch, turn signals, start/stop button, horn,starter switch, hi/low beam switch,and clutch switch

As for the throttle that was a different story, Originally it was the dual cable design, that was never going to fit through the handlebars, So I looked into some of the internal throttles offed for classic evo,s heard the good, the bad and the ugly about them and decided with the 90deg. turn the cable would have to make going through the bars this option wasn't for me.
So I decided to go with fly-by-wire, why not the newer Harleys have it so why cant I. Well there were 2 major obstickles, 1-the newer hogs have 1-1/4" handlebars for the sensor and problem 2 they are all fuel injected whereas I'm carberated (S&S super G)

Long story short got it all figured out, Really not all that difficult once ya get all the components in place, Right now until the system is proven I will be using it as a cruse control with periodic testing as the throttle when in wide open spaces and until it is proven I am keeping the dual cable set-up so I can override it if needed. If all goes well I may market it to custom builders later.

 

you have any more info on those cable or the hydraulic brake set up!? i have a customer that is begging for this! i would love any info you can provide...

welding/true the crank was not to bad i think i paid $200 and he re sealed the cases for me

 

Amazing work!!

 

[quote=JRK5892;10963076]you have any more info on those cable or the hydraulic brake set up!? i have a customer that is begging for this! i would love any info you can provide...

Thanks, Guys It's definitely been an adventure.

As for the hydraulic clutch and brake, The brake is pretty straight forward you just eliminate the stock brake line and replace it with bikers choice Micro-line and fittings, there are lots of web sights that sell the kits I bought mine in a 25ft. bulk roll and tapped the line to the outside of the handle bars and down the fork tubes following the same route it will be installed in, leaving about 6" extra line to account for any bends and turns i couldn't quite get an exact measurement on
On the brake master cylinder i used the 3/8 or 10mm 45deg. banjo fitting connected directly to the micro-line, this was to avoid kinking the line as it makes its way into the handlebars Note: you need to mock up the master cylinder with the fitting and carefully measure where the fitting will enter the handlebar then use a ***** punch and dimple the handlebar slightly where your fitting entry hole will be. If you don,t dimple the handlebars there,s a good chance your drill will wander making a mess out of the handlebars. NOTE: you may need to make the exit hole in the handlebars larger to accommodate for the wires and micro-line

When pulling the micro-line through the bars I strongly suggest pulling all the wires from the controls and the micro-line at the same time. Fishing the handlebars can be a bit tricky depending on your setup mine had a 90deg. turn but most should be easier. a little trick to get the fish line through the bars is to use 10lb. fishing line (yes rod and reel catching fish type fishing line) and tie a small piece of paper towel to it, then take a vacuum cleaner hose and stuff it on the end of the handlebar, block all other holes in the handlebar with tape so the only hole open is the hole at the bottom of the bars where the wires and micro line will come out, turn vacuum on and stuff the piece of paper towel tied to your fishing line into the wire hole and the vacuum will suck the line right up the handlebars and out the end.
pull a foot or so of the fishing line out of the end of the handlebar, Now take a pick or small piece of wire and pull the fishing line out through the slot where the wires go and tie the control wires to the fishing line tightly then wrap with electrical tape but not to thick just enough to cover the wires about 2" up and taper down to the fishing line, Then take your pick or small piece of wire and pull the fishing line out of the hole you drilled for the brake line, securely tie the fishing line to the brake line and tape this as well be sure the end of your brake line faces the direction of the fishing line you will be pulling on at the bottom of the handlebars,

Now slowly pull the fishing line out of the bottom of the bars while feeding the control wires and brake line into the bars, go slow and take it easy If it is going to be a tight fit coating the wires and brake line with silicone spray can really help.


Ok as for the clutch pulling the clutch line and wires are the same,
If your running a cable clutch it will need to be converted to a hydraulic clutch, several company's sell trap doors for 5 and 6 speed transmissions for the conversions, I got mine from Tony chrome customs in Detroit for $139.00 it came with the slave cylinder and pushrod and bolts ready to bolt on, you will need a hydraulic mastercylinder/ control set to replace the old cable pull type I think it was for a 96 bagger but don't remember for sure anyhow any harley hydraulic clutch master cylinder up to 2000 should work. whichever one you need will be determined by the diameter of the handlebars Note: on my trap door cover/ slave cylinder it seemed to take a special long style hydraulic fitting I didn't have so I taped it out for the 3/8 or 10mm banjo fitting and it worked great , no leaks works perfect.

I think that about covers it have any more questions just ask.

P.S. as far as the electronic throttle Im keeping that under wraps until I have proven the system..don't want to see anyone killed from something i designed.