Thanks for the help. I guess I am shopping for a Super E! I always knew there should be more in this thing - time to find it!

THe thing is, I was never unhappy with the flat out performance - it was always the low speed and idle that was crappy. Getting some more power will just be a bonus.

 

I like Super E carbs. They work well, but they are no Mikuni HSR. I think you will be disappointed coming from fuel injection to the S&S. Unless you get a super e with a bunch of **** hanging off it, you will never have a nice flat fuel curve, and will have to compromise either power or mileage. And you (or your dyno guy) better understand air bleeds too.

The Mikuni is going to produce a flatter curve, almost fuel injection flat; Have a crisper throttle, make more power, and get better mileage.

Buy both of them, jet, dyno tune, and ride with them both. I guarantee you will not keep the Super E. I have spent my own hard earned money on dynos and have all the a/f monitoring equipment to test my stuff on the street, so I'm speaking from personal experience. All my big twins now (except the panhead) run Mikuni HSR42's. All the Super E's went on ebay. Its a tractor carb, but they are easy to get to run "good enough", thus popular for the home wrench. But start looking at what they work like with an o2 meter, and you'll want something a bit more modern.

And there is a cruise bracket for the HSR too.

 

mrlexus - all I read about the Mik is that they are way harder to tune - this is not the case? You are a 'local' to me - do you recommend someone around who is good at tuning? My local dyno guy at Faribault HD seems to be real good, but I am not sure he has the 'seasoning' to be great at carb tuning.

 

There are basically 3 carbs that work very well on these engines.
S&S, Mikuni, and the CV's.
They will ALL deliver great throttle response, and power in the hands of a person that knows and understands the concept of each.
We hove absolutely no problems with any of those.
Scott

 

When I use a dyno, I go to a guy in Blaine. He's great because he just sits on the bike and does the pulls; and let's me do all the tuning. He has an eddy current one, so he can simulate road conditions too. I have an LM2, so I can check my a/f ratios myself. The only thing I dyno for anymore is to test a change or get the main jet spot on.

There is no reason you can't tune a Mikuni on your own. Read the tuning manual, it's very detailed.

http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hsr_tuningmanual_021003.pdf

I do the throttle tape thing, and it works great. Tune the circuits and use the dyno to get the main jet correct (highest hp WOT) What I have found about the Mikuni that I like better than the super is that you can get the part throttles dialed in much easier. Where on a super e you are changing an air bleed and intermediate jet, on the HSR you are simply raising or lowering a needle. The accelerator pumps on super e's seem to **** fuel, where as the Mikuni has a nice fine controlled squirt of gas when you twist the throttle.

I've got no dog in this fight, I don't care what anybody else runs. I have used all 3 carbs mentioned in this thread. With that said, I think the cv feels mushy and lacks throttle response. The S&s is a primitive design that isn't very tunable and usually produces a subpar fuel curve. Yes, you can modify a cv to help it with throttle response, and you can add a thunderjet kit to a super e (if you like hoses sticking off it and understand how to tune a carburetor) to get a flatter curve. Or... You can just get an HSR and have a great carb out of the box.

Your twin cam engine sounds similar to mine, I'll get you in the ballpark with the jets if you choose to go that way.

 

I run a 51mm CV on my 113" evo motor in my 94 dresser and I epoxied the cruise arm unto the outer shell on the throttle with Gorilla Epoxy. Been on there about 4 yrs now with no problems. Going to do the same with the 44mm CV going on the 96" evo taking the 113's place while it is freshened up.

Griz