I think you might be using the wrong timing marks on the flywheel. On some, not all EVO's, the flywheel is marked for the rear cylinder and the advance mark for the front cylinder.

You will have to get a manual to show the specific timing marks for your engine. There are dots, and vertical lines. Sometime multiples of each.

 

thanks alot .
I set the height.
And it seems like it's so close to start , but not starting .
I also see some gas coming out where the air filter is .
I tried some starter spray , but didn't help .
Any good advice??
I feel like I'm so close now .

 

Don't ever think condensers won't die out at any time, regardless of age.

Years past when all cars used them, they were made in USA, Mexico and Germany, they lasted. But now they are mostly China and all bets are off on quality control.

Also, you don't have to remove the one from the points plate. You can tie one in (any value) at the point side of the coil and ground other end for testing..

 

If liquid gasoline is coming out the air filter then the float is set incorrectly in the bowl or the needle valve isn't shutting the fuel off once the float closes it.

As an experiment: Shut the fuel off at the tank, see if the engine runs the bowl dry.
If it does, try setting the fuel level in the bowl way lower that it should be. See if the engine will thin idle with the fuel turned on for an extended period(5 min).
If it idles then your float setting is incorrect, there also could be trash in the inlet and the needle.

 

Points and condensors were a crappy ignition setup 40 years ago, even when good components could be found...

Make your life easier, toss the points and conensor into the scrap can and put an electronic ignition system on it.

You can use the OEM ignition coil with a Dyna 2000i system (if your coil is good...).

 

I once had the problem on my '73 Sportster of almost wanting to start.

It ended up being that the part that opens and closes the points had the center bolt hole drilled at an angle. So instead of rotating with the pinon shaft correctly it would wobble and cause the points to open differently for each cylinder.

So even if I set the gap correctly for the front cylinder it would be incorrect for the rear cylinder and vice-a-versa.

Finally got it to run by replacing the points with electronics.

 

Is the carb rubber boot seated properly onto the inlet. Take off the air filter then the backing plate bolts that are attachedto the heads. These hold the carb in place. Once you've done that make sure the rubber boot slips onto the inlet properly then push the carb onto the rubber boot then reassemble. Sometimes the back plate through wear and tear mileage wears the plastic where those 2 big bolts go through the round sleeves and it makes the rubber carb inlet boot move and causes miss fire one cylinder. Mine did it. Chased the problem via plugs coil battery compression only to find it was a simple thing. Hope it helps


QUOTE=NightriderDk;21770477]Hi guys .
I have just been on a long trip through Europe from Denmark to Austria on my old hard tail with kick only.it run perfectly must of the way , but it started to run unevenly at low revs on the way back, so I decided to
clean the carburetor,
change the wire to the ignition,
adjust the ignition .
with the result that I can't start it now.

It's my first sessions with the bike, so I have a lot to learn. It backfires out of the carb, once in a while.
I have checked that there is spark to the spark plugs,
there is also gas flow.
the ignition is also set correctly, with an opening of 020 mm

What am I overlooking?
any advise is much appreciated[/QUOTE]

 

Hej guys im still here , i still need help .

i dont know if i should make a new threat, in ignition?

I'm been working on this project for long now , and it still dosent start.

got a new capacitor, still no change

I checked all the rubber on tha carb , it's stil nicely and is in good condition.

I tried different sizes on the lifter in on the ignition plate , any thing between 0.35 mm to 0.55mm.
sometime it makes a little fart , and that's it . Mostly out of the air intake .

I removed the airfilter , and I see the plastic cap gets some gas on it . Seems the carb is blowing the gas out that way .

I tried with starter spray , still not starting .

my timing is really hard to understand, because when I got the bike the timing plate had to be set all the way to the left side , so no space for any adjustment.

but it was running perfect with that setting all the way through Europe and back again, and if I set the timing any different , it would kick like a horse.

so the crank sensor is sitting wrong ?? I'm really no expert in this felt , bit I think it should be porsible set correctly, right ?

is it a hard thing to do ? Never tried it before !

would it help if I just bought a dyno ignition?
Can I use a single ,? Or should it be double ?



Or what is my next step ??? I'm lost

 

The ignition points should set at .020 inch or .5mm.

If the timing plate adjustment is far away from center of slots, it's because the points are gaped incorrectly.

 

thank you .
Can you please explain what you mean ? 🤔
if the timing plate is set far away??
it follows the timing mark , and if I set it in the middle it will kick like crazy .