98” big bore plug chops always lean
#1
98” big bore plug chops always lean
Hi, I have searched the forums up and down and have also been in my carb a bunch. I recently just built my whole engine. Bike is a 2002 dyna wide glide. Crank trued and pinned, big bore 98”, shaved heads, ported heads and intake, I believe a bigger intake valve, 570 s&s ez start cams, s&s adjustable pushrods, and a dynatek ignition module. I am currently running a dynojet thunder slide (what came with the bike when I bought it), clip for needle in the 4th slot down, (middle grove), 195 main, and a 50 pilot. I don’t know if the emulsion tube is dynojet or not. I’m assuming it is if the slide is. It has a Arlen ness 90 degree intake and a 2-1 Harley Davidson pipe with no baffles just a tip at the end. No clue what model the pipe is as it was on there when I bought the bike. The problem I’m having is I was a little white after riding it a couple hundred miles with a 48 and 195. I did plug chops with them jets and on 1/4 throttle I got white plugs. I went up to a 50 pilot and went for 3 miles and still am getting white plugs at 1/4 throttle. I’m at a loss here. Do I go up to 52 pilot or maybe go down a clip notch on the needle? Do I go back to a stock slide and sportster needle? Please help. Thank you. I attached a picture of the pipe and the cone in the end is the only restriction on the pipe.
#4
Trying to tune the parts you have in that carb, with the build you listed can only be properly done on a dyno.
With all stock parts in the carb, we could get you close and the jets you listed are close but again, only with a stock slide, spring, emulsion tube and identifiable needle
Stock emulsion tube has 8 tiny holes. Most tubes used for the adjustable needles have only 2 tiny holes near the bottom. Some accept stock jets, others will not.
White plugs are somewhat normal for todays fuel so it isn't necessarily off with the jets, etc provided there are no intake leaks.
With all stock parts in the carb, we could get you close and the jets you listed are close but again, only with a stock slide, spring, emulsion tube and identifiable needle
Stock emulsion tube has 8 tiny holes. Most tubes used for the adjustable needles have only 2 tiny holes near the bottom. Some accept stock jets, others will not.
White plugs are somewhat normal for todays fuel so it isn't necessarily off with the jets, etc provided there are no intake leaks.
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Goose_NC (08-21-2022)
#5
#6
I will probably go to a stock emulsion tube and a different needle. What needle do you guys recommend? I heard the 89 sportster needle was a good one? I can’t mount the reader you posted the link for because I don’t have o2 sensor bungs in my pipe. About the dyno, I was gonna contact the shop that did my machine work and ask them about the best carb (I’m assuming mikuni 42) and then have them dyno. But until then I want the stock carb as close as I can get it.
#7
If it has the plastic thunder slide, you'll need a stock slide, plus a stock spring. The DJ Thunderslide spring is longer but lighter tension. Do not use the thick plastic spacer that's (possibly) under the needle now. Nothing in there but slide/needle/spring seat/spring.
All the parts are available from a dealer except a needle or CV Performance has it all plus needles. N65C probably easiest to find, should work fine and 50/195-205 with stock everything else will be really close to what it wants.
It'd have a lot more torque if you can live with some sort of baffle in the muffler, but that's up to what you want / how you ride.
All the parts are available from a dealer except a needle or CV Performance has it all plus needles. N65C probably easiest to find, should work fine and 50/195-205 with stock everything else will be really close to what it wants.
It'd have a lot more torque if you can live with some sort of baffle in the muffler, but that's up to what you want / how you ride.
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#8
Do you mean don’t use the plastic washer for the thunder slide? Or when I go back to a different needle? Also, there’s no more cough through the intake as I had sometimes, or any backfiring in decel. That being said, I’d like to think that I have the pilot good, but it smells pretty rich. I am gonna try to adjust the mixture in more after I get it warmed up. The problem with the exhaust is that is how it’s supposed to be. I have taken the part number and searched online to see what it is and I can’t find anything in it. It is definetly a Harley Davidson because it says it in the side of the muffler. Also I talked to two shop owners about it and I guess Harley dealt with kirker (if that’s how you spell it) pipes? They believe it to be one of them. The bike has incredible torque.
#10
Let's back up and take a breath...
Need to understand, with todays fuel, pictures in our mind from what's pasted all over the internet for what a plug should look like is mostly wrong. They are of plugs from water-cooled engines and most were taken when fuel still had tetraethyl lead additive. Doesn't apply anymore for the most part.
Could be, the guys who built it already knew what works with the exact combination of parts and head work that it currently has (?) and already did the carb to match. Your primary concern was "white plugs" but it runs like it should without issue. (?) No need to spend a lot of riding time and money chasing a problem that may not exist.
If you've had the carb off or disturbed it's position, change the intake grommet. They get "set" to a sealed position and after they've been run several times or been on there for a while and the carb gets moved around, they can and will lose the seal they had and cause problems from vacuum leaking. And spraying fluid all over won't find those leaks 99% of the time unless it's really bad.
Need to understand, with todays fuel, pictures in our mind from what's pasted all over the internet for what a plug should look like is mostly wrong. They are of plugs from water-cooled engines and most were taken when fuel still had tetraethyl lead additive. Doesn't apply anymore for the most part.
Could be, the guys who built it already knew what works with the exact combination of parts and head work that it currently has (?) and already did the carb to match. Your primary concern was "white plugs" but it runs like it should without issue. (?) No need to spend a lot of riding time and money chasing a problem that may not exist.
If you've had the carb off or disturbed it's position, change the intake grommet. They get "set" to a sealed position and after they've been run several times or been on there for a while and the carb gets moved around, they can and will lose the seal they had and cause problems from vacuum leaking. And spraying fluid all over won't find those leaks 99% of the time unless it's really bad.