If it has an overflow, it has a drain. If you bought a kit, I'd wager you found an o-ring with no place to go. (?) Take out that screw and use it there. That's the drain screw
It only has to be loosened about 3/4 - 1 turn for fuel to drain out the pipe...
If it has an overflow, it has a drain. If you bought a kit, I'd wager you found an o-ring with no place to go. (?) Take out that screw and use it there. That's the drain screw
It only has to be loosened about 3/4 - 1 turn for fuel to drain out the pipe...
no bud, I have the overflow but the float bowl is solid. No ports in it at all. Mine is one of the very first cv carbs.
ok so I’ve done a jig and reset the float height HOWEVER…. I thought to myself I haven’t done one of the most simple things ever, take a fuel sample. The tank was cleaned about 6 months ago but it is 32 years old. Let the sample settle and I’ve got fine sand like particles of what I immagine to be corrosion in there. Blowing into the fuel inlet while turning the carb upside down now seals it fully. Am I right in guessing this corrosion has been the issue all along? I’ve ordered an inline fuel filter…
Well that's interesting. I've never seen an early version without a drain. Wish you would post a photo of it sometime, if you get time. Does it have the brass stand pipe in the bowl and the nipple coming out the bottom at red arrow (?) if not, where does it overflow to?
What you're describing may be what I call snuff rust - so fine it will stay in suspension in the fuel until is sits a good bit. Bad news if that's the case. There is no fuel filter in the world that will totally strain it. It'll be an issue from now on and will only get worse. Only option would be coating the inside of the tank or replace it.
You're there, I'm not, so I'll leave all that up to your best judgement as to how big the debris is and how long it takes to settle. I can tell you though, an OEM from the dealer petcock screen is very fine and will generally catch anything that will cause a problem normally (except snuff). May just need to clean it out again and don't let it sit empty during off season.
Possible that was part of your initial problems, but having the float set correctly is a necessary evil to replacing a float valve, so no time is wasted there Good luck.
Well that's interesting. I've never seen an early version without a drain. Wish you would post a photo of it sometime, if you get time. Does it have the brass stand pipe in the bowl and the nipple coming out the bottom at red arrow (?) if not, where does it overflow to?
What you're describing may be what I call snuff rust - so fine it will stay in suspension in the fuel until is sits a good bit. Bad news if that's the case. There is no fuel filter in the world that will totally strain it. It'll be an issue from now on and will only get worse. Only option would be coating the inside of the tank or replace it.
You're there, I'm not, so I'll leave all that up to your best judgement as to how big the debris is and how long it takes to settle. I can tell you though, an OEM from the dealer petcock screen is very fine and will generally catch anything that will cause a problem normally (except snuff). May just need to clean it out again and don't let it sit empty during off season.
Possible that was part of your initial problems, but having the float set correctly is a necessary evil to replacing a float valve, so no time is wasted there Good luck.
yeah sure thing I’ll upload a photo tomorrow.
so the grains are settling fast and noticeable. I took the sample in a white pot and could see it straight away. The tank was cleaned about 6 months ago. I’ve heard mixed things about the sealant. Does it work well?
Before I started turning off the petcock after every ride Mine started overflowing.
I dropped the float bowl and it cleaned itself. a year later the fuel line split,
turned out the fuel line was rotting from the inside from the ethanol.
Yes definitely!
Even with the (much) lighter round floats in the pre- '92 CVs, the difference in measuring between upside down and @ 15-20 degrees will usually be .080 - .110
It's not complicated but is a bit tedious, so just take your time. Once it's set, unless you have to change the valve again (shouldn't ever need to) you'll never have to adjust it again.
If you don't have an angle finder, at a hardware store pickup a pack of wood door shims. They're cheap like $2.00 and most are 1/4" thick on one end. Stack 8 together and that will give you approx. 15 - 18 degrees and a surface to rest it on while measuring.
I shoot for .715 - .720 and that puts the fuel level even with the seam between the body and bowl which is optimum, as checked with a clear tube on the drain.
I started wondering if it was a non-pump version but figured they were all used up by late '88. I guess not, learn something every day Thanks for the photo!
Since you're getting grains rather than cloudy (rusty) fuel, you'd likely be fine with decent filtering.
So far as tank lining, I've done a few with decent results. There have been long discussions on here about that and over half the guys favor cleaning and keeping check on the petcock screen every year or so. I tend to lean that way myself.
I started wondering if it was a non-pump version but figured they were all used up by late '88. I guess not, learn something every day Thanks for the photo!
Since you're getting grains rather than cloudy (rusty) fuel, you'd likely be fine with decent filtering.
So far as tank lining, I've done a few with decent results. There have been long discussions on here about that and over half the guys favor cleaning and keeping check on the petcock screen every year or so. I tend to lean that way myself.
you’re more than welcome!! So I got a new fuel line, in-line filter and stripped and cleaned it all again. Took the tank off and cleaned that out with vinegar and nuts and bolts, washed it out about four times then let it sit in the sun to dry. All back together with the filter installed and carb cleaned again set to factory spec. No flooding 👌👌👌
however next issue. Getting original parts for this carb here in the uk is like finding rocking horse poop. So I ordered a very reputable aftermarket jet and needle kit. Installed it as per the instructions for a standard bike and carb. It fouled the plugs between 1/4-3/4 throttle very fast to I adjusted the needle etc. after numerous attempts it seems I’m still getting a very rich mix from slight throttle onward. How much wiggle room should be between the needle and needle jet? With the AC off when I Rev it I can see fuel almost dripping out of the needle jet.
however next issue. Getting original parts for this carb here in the uk is like finding rocking horse poop. So I ordered a very reputable aftermarket jet and needle kit. Installed it as per the instructions for a standard bike and carb. It fouled the plugs between 1/4-3/4 throttle very fast to I adjusted the needle etc. after numerous attempts it seems I’m still getting a very rich mix from slight throttle onward. How much wiggle room should be between the needle and needle jet? With the AC off when I Rev it I can see fuel almost dripping out of the needle jet.
Aftermarket needle and jet kit? I am sincerely afraid to ask but wager your current flooding problem is exactly there, with those parts.
With exception of the bowl and it's gasket(s) and float, every piece of that carb will interchange with any HD CV up thru 2006. No exceptions. You mentioned the float was leaking and they are extremely difficult to find as are the bowls without accelerator pump. Did you repair that float or find a replacement?
There is quite a bit of wiggle of the needle inside the needle jet. Common mistake is installing the jet upside down but your symptoms don't sound like that's the case. The larger ID of the needle jet goes up.
06-09-2022, 01:10 PM
