Does anyone know which one is the idle mixture screw, and what is the other one? Thanks!

 

One is idle one is mixture , the one with the x in it is probably the idle screw and the other a mixture screw , probably . I know that may not help but I'm 99% sure.I don't know that carb is all.
It's just for me they're in an odd position they're usually somewhere else,usually near the bottom front/side of the carb. , google the type of carb and go from there.
Carbs are a "make one change at a time " thing so you can go back one step if **** gets weird.

 

The one on the left is idle mixture. The right one is the accelerator pump. It’s an S&S carb.

 

Thank you!
A thumb rule that I heard is to turn the idle mixture 2.5 turns, then fine-tune to make the engine idling properly. Can you tell me what is the purpose of the accelerator pump screw?

 

It will adjust the when of the pump to come in more than likely. Most have a linkage or rod that can be adjusted to time the accelerator pump to work with the opening of the throttle , the nozzle also comes in a few different sizes too. If it comes in too early the engine could bog down a little , too late and it's too lean .The fuel stream it produces should hit the needle to atomize in the stream. Fk I'm old I can't even remember the workings of an S@S carb , I used mostly Mikuni's with my Shovels and Evos or the stock CV carb.

 

Engine won’t run if I won’t open the chock, just a little. If the chock is fully closed then rpm become too low and engine stops.
The left mixture screw - is fully closed, if I start opening it even a little, the rpm get too low and the engine stops..
The right acceleration pump screw - I don’t see any difference between having it close or open...

 

I haven't seen the carb you have in over 3 decades mate so I'm not all good right now with that one, if I was there no issue , I could work it out and help you.
Carburetor diagnosis over the phone/net is all fked up mate , what might sound like a lean bog/hesitation to you could mean a rich flub/stumble to me .
Write down the state of tune of your bike then find that bike and carb combination on this forum and ask those guys their jetting settings. Find settings and buy those jets , set the needle where those guys have theirs. There was a sight called shade tree tuners or something that had settings going way back as well. Call your Indy he'll know or just take it to him and watch and learn.
Remember one change at a time AND the float must be at the right height before you go further .Most floats start letting fuel through when the float is parallel to the world or parallel to the bottom join edge of the bowl where it seats.
Sorry I can't be more help, you'll get it.

 

I found the site dude
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/Pro_tuning.htm

It'll be there somewhere. the drop down menu on the right is the ****.

 

haha. We can tell you’re a mikuni guy. S&S doesn’t have a needle jet like a Mik
acc pump is used to bridge and smooth the gap between intermediate and main jets when you crack the throttle quick

to The OP you might want to look up the S&S tune procedure. You’re talking adjusting the mixture screw that only affects the idle circuit. You should first make sure you have the right size intermediate jet.

 

Nope, on an S&S E correct setting for the mixture screw is 1.5 turns out + or - a 1/4 turn or less if you have the correct intermediate jet. 2.5 out say the jets too small 1 turn or less it's too big. Fairly stock shovel or evo .0295 is the usual.

Make sure the bikes warmed up before messing with it.