Don't have any numbers other than the best I can find (so far) is the carb part number: Screamin eagle #27001-88

 

OK, have everything I need to finish the rebuild. The Yamaha gasket along with a factory CV carb kit gets you all the needed parts (except the bowl access screw o-ring).

Now my problem is that I can't find anywhere to verify what the float setting should be for this thing? I have the instruction sheet, but it doesn't mention specs on the float height setting.
Anyone have any idea? Should I use the settings for a factory CV carb to start?

 

With the carb on it's side, float needle up top so the float is hanging straight down and resting against the valve, .63" - .67" to the bottom of the float from the body of the carb.

 

I found this kit on amazon, includes new float bowl screws and carb drain plug oring.

HQ POWERSPORTS Carburetor Repair Kit 128058 Replacement For Yamaha Snowmobiles.

 

Thanks @t150vej and @80FXWG-rider !

 

One more thing I've found/noticed. On the float valve, is the top of it where it contacts the float tab, is that a plunger? Should that little piece move up and down spring loaded? Mine is rock solid. I've seen some that act as a plunger and need to know if I now need to hunt down one of these. Would I be correct to assume that any float valve for a Keihin Carb should work or are they all different? I noticed the rebuild pack for the Yamaha posted above by @80FXWG-rider , the float valve looked different, longer that what I have on mine, which is short and stubby and brass with rubber valve. Picture below is similar to what mine looks like, but silver instead of brass.
Thanks again in advance.. maybe I need to track down a used CV and rebuild that instead.

 

Generally speaking - some do, some don't. All the later CV's are spring loaded the butterfly models can be either way. Some are 3 sided, others 4 sided. And some are a tick longer than others.

Rule of thumb, if it's spring loaded, float height needs to be set ever so carefully at the point where the valve is bottomed (closed) and the spring button is not compressed. Best to use the method/specs in post 23. If it's solid, not spring loaded, then the other mentioned method is good - upside down and bottom of the float perpendicular with the body of the carb.

 

The valve in that kit is different than the one in my carb. I have the fat style with the spring loaded plunger. I had ordered another kit from Amazon

DP 0101-029 Carburetor & Air Cut Off Rebuild Repair Parts Kit Compatible with Harley Davidson 76-89 with Standard/Butterfly Keihin Carbs

for the accelerator pump and other gaskets.I ordered 3 kits before I got one with both of the correct o-rings for the accelerator pump. This kit had the valve that matched mine and the solid style. I haven't had any luck finding one kit that has everything needed to do a rebuild.

 

Thanks for putting in all the leg work on finding all the parts. Agree. Piecemealing a rebuild kit for this thing has been a PITA.
Did you say your SE carb has the spring loaded float valve? I tried pressing on mine super hard with a small flat-head and could not get to move, even after soaking in penatrating oil over night. I can't imagine any spring is that strong, mine must be solid, even though looks like a plunger. Wonder which is the factory spec part then??

 

Hawk45,
Yes, mine is spring loaded. There is a noticeable difference in the top of the valve where it mounts to the float. The spring style is more pin like. The solid one looks like a button type battery. The one you have pictured appears to be the spring style. Hope that helps.