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96 springer fxsts

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  #11  
Old 01-14-2020, 04:31 AM
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Needle jet missing or installed upside down? Hint: I am not talking about the slow jet, and not the main jet, but the NEEDLE JET...

The float needle seat can be cleaned with a little polishing compound, a q-tip, and some carb cleaner. Use a magnifying glass and look at the tip of the float needle. Should be a smooth cone with no dirt or indentations on the cone. Were all the holes clear in the slow/idle jet? They are tiny and clog easily. Packing for the slow jet installed back in correct order?

Did you shoot some carb spray through the passages for the slow/idle jet and transfer ports? Since you had to remove the welch plug, then it has never been cleaned properly previously.

Just running few some of the more common issues. One last thing, hole in diaphragm? YD
 
  #12  
Old 01-14-2020, 06:01 AM
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Both times ive taken plugs out they have been bone dry. I did clean up the seat a bit and sadly nothing changed.

I believe everything is installed correctly, ive watched enough videos to apply to HD as a carb mechanic haha.

To the best of my knowledge all holes in the jets are clear, ive used compressed air to double check, ive sprwayesprayed cleaner in the ports to make sure nothing is blocked, the float needle is new but ive still checked it over many times, and not noticed any holes in the diaphragm.

Maybe best bet is for me to take some detailed pictures of what im working with and post them here. Maybe someone with more knowledge can see something im not hah ill also post a short clip of starting attempt and maybe capturing the overflow of the gas.
 
  #13  
Old 01-14-2020, 09:21 AM
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If your plugs are bone dry that seems to indicate there is definitely a fuel stoppage somewhere. Either that or due to the CV design there may be a massive air leak somewhere that is preventing fuel from being sucked into the motor.

I believe everything is installed correctly
I don't want to be the floater in the punch bowl but if everything was correct it would run Just last night on my 03 FXDWG I went through everything cleaning things out because the idle mixture cavity had some gunk in it. While I had it off I replaced the idle mixture screw with a Yost thumb screw for easier adjustments. Basically I hadn't done much that I hadn't done before over the years. When I put it back on the bike it would barely run at all. With the choke all the way out it would fire but sounded like it was only running on one cylinder. When I ran my finger around the o-ring between the carb body and intake manifold I could feel a bulge. Definitely wasn't supposed to be like that.

When I took the carb back off I could see the o-ring wasn't seated on the manifold correctly. I had been spoiled by the simplicity of the S&S Super E on my Shovelhead. Just shove it in between the cylinders and tighten the screws. I didn't fully understand the design of the o-ring on this twin cam. It is a double lipped thing that has to fit both inside and outside the manifold. Evidently when I pulled the carb off the o-ring came out a little bit and did not seat back properly when I put the carb back. That caused an air leak so bad I could actually hear it. When I reseated it properly all was well.

If you are checking out Harley carb videos on YouTube this series here is the best I have found:
\

It is so good I downloaded the videos to keep for reference. The instructor goes into the deepest detail I have ever seen in a video. In parts 2-4 I believe he goes into a lot of detail about the needle valve. I think the entire series is eight parts.

Good luck.

Edit: I just happened to think that I almost got into trouble just like the instructor showed when taking off the throttle cable mount. There is a little brass bushing that goes into the carb top that takes the stress from that mount when it is screwed onto the top of the carburetor. If it is missing and the cable clamp was screwed down tight on top of the carb it may have cracked the carb top which might cause some trouble. Mine fell out and went very far away before I noticed it was gone.
 

Last edited by Hoyt 1911A1; 01-14-2020 at 09:24 AM.
  #14  
Old 01-14-2020, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoyt 1911A1
I don't want to be the floater in the punch bowl but if everything was correct it would run

Haha i cant argue that

ill check that video out to see if it's more descriptive than what ive watched. Tonight ill also try to upload some stuff to show what ive done incase its something obvious. I personally think its something with the float or a vaccum problem like mentioned and gas isnt being sucked up into the cylinders
 
  #15  
Old 03-10-2020, 01:39 PM
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Been a little while but recently got back at it. Still having same problem with it not getting fuel. I had a mechanic friend check it out, car mechanic but worked on carbs, and he tested vacuum and it seemed to check out. But still cant get it to run.

Still when i turn the throttle a bit i get has spurts coming out where the air intake would go, which to me seems wrong, but the butterfly valve seems to almost be completely closed. Is that normal? Ill take a short video tonight and post it here so yall can see whats going on.

Still if i spray some carb cleaner throught the carb the bike will run for a few seconds and cut off. I dont seem to have the gas pouring out problem after the mechanic guy adjusted the float.
 
  #16  
Old 03-12-2020, 09:02 AM
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[QUOTE=35s

Still when i turn the throttle a bit i get has spurts coming out where the air intake would go, which to me seems wrong, [/QUOTE]

This confirms that your accelerator pump is functioning
 
  #17  
Old 03-12-2020, 02:06 PM
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Obviously OP has no clue how the carb operates I would recommend you take the bike to the local indie shop and have someone who knows what they are doing fix it.
 
  #18  
Old 03-12-2020, 03:22 PM
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Would love to see that video, with the air cleaner off, looking straight through the throat of the carb as your twisting the throttle..
 
  #19  
Old 03-12-2020, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
Obviously OP has no clue how the carb operates I would recommend you take the bike to the local indie shop and have someone who knows what they are doing fix it.
. Why did they (PO) rebuild the carb to begin with? Get a service manual! The carb obviously needs to be rebuilt the right way. Find out if you can about any previous issues. Guessing will get you no where.
 

Last edited by Bass Player; 03-12-2020 at 04:13 PM.
  #20  
Old 03-12-2020, 09:10 PM
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Ive rebuilt carbs before on other bikes and never had the issues listed. I got into this one because the bike wont start and was told thats the issue. Was told there previous person might not have known what he is doing but going through it everything seems to check out. No missing pieces and everything is clean.

im no mechanic but can easily put things back where they belong. And even the 50 videos I've watched after initially coming up short say petty much the same thing ive been doin.

But appreciate the help guess it was wrong to come here for advice.
 


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