I think this might be the problem. There appears to be changes to the CV in 1991. I’ve got a choke cable for a 1990 on a 1992 carb.
Just back from HD parts. Appearently I did replace the enrichener cable with the ‘92. Its a bit long so there’s a curve created by compression so this compressed the spring a bit. Also, the starter valve rubber seal is old and trashed. I picked up a new one, but they didn’t have a ‘90 cable. With a new seal and the right length cable, we may have just solved this puzzle. I’ll try another parts store in Portland tomorrow.
Sorry, late to the party, I don't think its the slow jet either. 45 to 48 should be right for your mods (cam, air cleaner and exhaust??), but I am puzzled why your plugs look rich and your bike acts like it is lean? Again puzzled, what is your timing set at? YD
Sorry, late to the party, I don't think its the slow jet either. 45 to 48 should be right for your mods (cam, air cleaner and exhaust??), but I am puzzled why your plugs look rich and your bike acts like it is lean? Again puzzled, what is your timing set at? YD
I started a new job this week so haven’t had much time to respond. I don’t think my plugs are telling me I’m running rich. They’re pretty clean accept down inside where I’m getting black. I was thinking that was due to rich idle. It turns out that my local HD parts counter gave me the wrong enrichener cable a couple years ago. Also, the starter valve on the end of the cable had a really worn rubber seat. The cable was forced to bend which I think keeps it a hair back from seating, this and the rubber seat, I think, has been letting too much fuel in. My new cable should be in this weekend so I can assemble it and see if things improve. I think these issues seem like they could cause rich idle. I set the timing by the book at 35 BTDC.
Last edited by pnwsurveyor; 09-06-2018 at 08:57 PM.
Might consider backing (retard) timing a few with an aftermarket cam... the engine usually likes a little less timing with higher performance cam. What cam is in your bike?
At at least do a little reading on the subject, and listen closely for ping at certain rpm’s.
iknow... throwing another item into the mix... but retarding mine a little helped in both plug color and ping. YD
It’s a Crane Cam. That’s good advice. Let me see how having the correct enrichener cable affects her first. She’s really close to running the best she’s ever run.
The thing to look for on the timing is not the hard numbers from the manual, that is for a stock bike in a perfect world, your engine is now "modified" and the cam changes (usually for the better) the combustion timing and efficiency. Look at the "dark line" or "anneal line" on the ground strap on your spark plugs and adjust the timing to get that line in about the correct spot. That darker anneal line should be right about at the bend of the ground strap. Conservative timing is a touch before it.
It shows a few good examples of what that anneal (timing indicator) line looks like. It can vary some in appearance and that link gives a few example. That line along with other indicators (like dark appearance to the threads) pointed out in that link and the pics earlier, will give you a good idea of selecting the proper heat range of plugs as well.
Getting back to timing, I agree, check out your enrichener, and then go from there. YD
EDIT: Don"t pay attention to the plug numbers in that link, just the pics and description of plug appearance, those plugs are for other vehicles...not our bikes.
Last edited by Yankee Dog; 09-07-2018 at 04:16 PM.
You got me thinking about the cam... in 2016 I pulled the engine to repair a crack in the engine case. When I pulled the cam gear cover, the cam came out, hanging up on the cover, then dropped out onto my bench. This is when I saw that I had an aftermarket (Crane) cam. The problem was that I didn’t get to see which timing marks were used. When I reassembled, I used the “0” mark figuring this may be a trial and error deal. When I fired it up, timed it, and began tuning the carb, it appeared “0” was right. She’s running well, accept this rich idle issue. Is it possible I should have used the “R”? For these cams, do I just pull it, turn it 1/3 and reinstall? Or does the gear need to be pressed off, rotated, pressed back on? If pressed, then it seems like “0” is right or it wouldn’t be running now. Here’s a pic of the cam gear after it came out.
Sorry, I don't know about those marks. I only know about matching up the marks inside the cam chest with the breather gear, the cam gear, and the pinion gear like the manual says when replacing a cam. Perhaps someone else or posting the question in the evo classics 1340 section. At least you will get an explanation and know for sure. Without specific tools to do it, pulling the gear from the cam and re-installing it correctly back on the cam is technically challenging but can be done. I would assume for now that the gear is on there correctly, but there is a possibility it is "off" from when it fell out. Again, I would at least ask and get confirmation that when you put it back you did right. It sounds like you would have done exactly what I would have done.
Usually running a hotter cam means backing off (retarding) the timing a little because the cam is now making things a little more efficient and not as much need for advance due to a more efficient (better) combustion. Again, need to evaluate if your pinging or not. Hoping you get things figured out. YD
08-31-2018 | 06:27 PM
