A little bit of back story to start off. This bike has been in storage for the last 7 years. When I got it out I cleaned it up, changed the oil, put a tiny bit of oil in the cylinder then cranked it over to make sure they weren't froze. Everything was good. I flushed the gas tank, and filled it with fresh Non-ethanol gas. Lastly the bike had a brand new S&S Super G carb that was put on the bike that was then stored and had never had gas in it or had been started. So I know being gummed up is not the issue. When I first started it, it would start and run. I followed the tuning procedure that S&S provides as well as their youtube video's showed. It would run great and I could take it around the yard with no issue. As soon as it got on the road it would fall flat on its face. Then when I parked it it would run like poo again. So I would reset, retune it and same thing would happen... over and over again. So I though I probably have some kind of air leak that's causing it to start running lean. Well this weekend tore it all the way down replaced anything that was rubber, and reassembled making sure to put the manifold on in even increments so that it stayed even. Then the carb put it all back on and.. Wouldn't start up. So I took the air cleaner off, and if I put my hand covering up 98% of the opening it will start and run. So you may thing BIG LEAK now. Well using some carb cleaner I was unable to identify any leaking along any area that two parts meet up. So this is where at, super confused, and super frustrated.

Has any one else had this issue or a similar issue and any ideas on a fix? Any info is greatly appreciated.

SpaceGunner

 

1) 2004 Sportster has a vacuum operated petcock so fuel flow from the tank through the fuel strainer and the petcock to the carb would be where I would start.
2) Vacuum hoses fully connected (capped off) and seated?
3) Float adjusted properly?

 

Zanthamos, I ended up checking that last night. I'm getting plenty of fuel. It has a new petcock, and I cranked it with the hose disconnected. I'm getting tons of fuel! I haven't checked the float so that will be my next check. What I hope someone can fill me in on is what I believe is called the MAP sensor? I was told it effects the advancing and slowing of the timing. Its on the bike but when I compared the old intake manifold to he new one I found the holes to be considerably different in size, with the new one being far smaller. Is there any way this could be caused by a MAP sensor issue?

PS also I have no idea why I put customer in the title of this thread. If anyone knows how I can remove that I would appreciate it.

 

The MAP sensor is indeed on the top of the intake manifold. Is there a reason you are changing the manifold? Does the MAP sensor seat all the way through the new manifold, if so I wouldn't worry too much about it, otherwise either go back to the stealership and get the correct or drill the hole out to match the old one. If the MAP cannot get a good read on the intake pressure, maybe leaking there or maybe hole is incorrect, check Ronnies (http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc) for the part numbers to ensure that you have everything. Additionally, if the MAP sensor has failed the ignition circuit could be interrupted causing the issue.

 

Hey everyone just an update. So there was a problem on how the map sensor was connected. So now that I got that taken care of the bike runs, and I even took it down the road a couple times today. So this is where I'm at, I followed the S&S video on tuning E&G carbs and everything is good untill I get to the accelerator pump screw. It doesn't matter how far out I turn it, it cuts out and almost dies when I crack the throttle open really quick. Roll on's are fine, but just not abrupt openings. Any ideas? If I can get this taken care of I can focus if I need to rejet, or take it to a tuner, etc. I'm so close but no cigar yet.

Thanks Everyone

SpaceGunner