Yes, probably rich. What do your spark plugs look like? Leave the 46 slow, and install the 175 main back in (unless you have a 180 use that instead).

This is where you need to start with a new set of spark plugs (actually a couple sets) and start reading your plugs after you make jetting changes. However, it takes awhile to get color changes to spark plugs with modern fuel (10% ethanol). Also listen for engine ping or spark knock. If you get any, then you are lean.

What did you set the idle mix screw at? 2 turns out is a good starting point.

You really need to tune either the slow speed circuit first, then when that is worked out, move on to the main fuel circuit, or versa visa. It makes life easier on you in the long run. YD

 

Okay, things are much better with the 45 pilot. The way Im understanding is you could even get away with a size larger, but then close the mixture screw down more?

Going to do my second run this morning....

Just to be clear, the Main is only used at three quarter throttle on, and nothing at idle...?

 

zeroing in with a 45 and 180. Just to be sure you could have a larger pilot and close down the mix screw?
Also the main has no job up until three quarters throttle?

 

You are correct in both questions.

I like to put a little piece of tape on the throttle and the housing next to it marking what is 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 etc. throttle. Now I have a visual when I am riding. It tells me what position in the throttle I spend most of my time at and helps me when I am tuning the carb.

How many turns out of the slow screw with the 45? I had a 45 and needed 3 1/2 turns out, so changed it to a 46 and am at 2 1/4 turns out.

Check your throttle cable adjustment if you removed them from the carb. Make sure you are getting full travel of the pivot on the carb.(the part that the cables connect to on your carb). It has a built in stop and if your adjustments near the throttle grip are off, you will not get full travel of the pivot at the carb and you will not get full throttle. Look for the stops to just touch each other. Just a little tip that is easily overlooked during tuning.

Again read your plugs...YD

 

It was really rainy so I didnt get much riding in. The tape tip is awesome! thank you.

With the pilot at 45, I only needed two turns out. Its almost like a 44 is needed(?)...Im still not sure what the orginal was. Im gonna take it to work and try and get a measurement on the comparitor.
Got the throttle cables back on and noticed the WOT wasnt even hitting the stop. It was a quarter inch away....! (thanks for having me look. I had no idea)

The decel noise and that shift cough thing is GONE. yes!
Have to order plugs. totally forgot about the plug reading....
then I can start reading with the 180 main...OH, one more thing. I didnt install the new emulsion tube with the main. Is this okay or should I install the new tube?

 

ok well, looks more like 2.5 turns out or more needed on the mixture. Im having trouble after setting the idle at the end of a run. When I start it up with the choke on, its great and as the choke pulls in, the engine chugs out. I turn the idle up a hair (cold) and when it warms, its RPMs feel too high. (no tachy)

 

My bike idles at about 700 to 750 when cold. After it warms up it is about 1000 rpms. You want about 1000 rpms to keep the oil pressure up where it needs to be for an evo.

Make sure the end of the idle adjust screw does not have a groove worn in it (like a slight recess or slot). Think about it, if it is worn in the middle and high on the edges, a slight turn will make a large adjustment.

2.5 turns out is fine. Make sure your return cable is not adjusted too tight. Does the rpm change when you turn the handlebars from one extreme to another? If so, then recheck your cable adjustments.

If the bike is running good, don't mess with the emulsion tube. If you do, and before you take it apart, put a mark on the needle jet with a sharpee pen. Just reach in the throat of the carb with the pen and mark the needle jet.

When you remove the emulsion tube, the needle jet can fall out. If it does, you have a 50/50 shot of putting it back in correctly. The mark will make sure that you do.

See this link:

http://www.cv-performance.com/harley...tuning-issues/

You will eventually find the sweet spot for your idle speed. 2.5 turns out on mix screw is fine.

Sounds like your getting it dialed in. This chit is kind of fun right? YD

 

Ok, glad I asked about the emulsion tube. its staying put. Have a digital tach Im going to borrow and plugs are on the way.

throttle cables look good. no gassing when I turn a corner. : )

After the plugs and rpm check I plan on a few runs just to ensure everything is right. then on to the Main.
Yes, this is great. Ive learned so much!!!

 

When I installed my dynojet kit many years ago, they supplied a new emulsion tube, 4 different main jets, advised the mixture screw 3 full turns out, and to drill the air port on the slide slightly opening it up. Using the proper main jet with aftermarket air cleaner/pipe, it ran very well. Then ethanol came into the fuel and wore the jet needle tip to a fine point. Had to replace that and the mechanic stripped the mixture screw...still runs but coughs and farts when trying to idle @ 850rpm now. Runs great at cruise or WFO tho!

 

Have to disagree with the CVP tuner kit...BTDT. I tried many different combos but finally gave up and pulled it all out and go back with OEM parts because I could never get a decent balance between idle, mid, and wot with three different exhaust systems. All indicators were the idle jet was too small and the CVP needle jet holder and needle jet just would not balance mid-range, and wot was too lean. When I put on SE Pro II Double Barrel pipes and opened the baffles some, the only way I could get a decent idle and mid-performance without decel popping was to go back with OEM parts, a 48 idle jet, 190 main jet, OEM needle jet holder with a N65 needle jet and 2 washers. It took three turns on the mixture adjust to get decent performance across the throttle range. (The only CVP parts I kept were the mixture packing kit and idle adjust screw.

Suggestion: Go to ACE hardware and get some stainless metric hex head screws to replace the screws in your carb. Not only do they look much cleaner, depending on your exhaust pipe setup, they make it really easy to take off the float bowl and change main and idle jets without taking off the carburetor or messing with the throttle cables.