http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0150-1.mp4

 

That's nice power, to put it mildly.

 

Are you familiar with the term lugging, and what it does to your motor?

 

Are you familiar with what lugging is. That bike makes enough power at idle to turn the tranny. Lugging is when there isn't enough torque at x rpm to turn the gear it's in. That bike makes enough power you could start in 3rd.

 

I think you might want to read up a little on lugging... There was a very good thread on lugging on S&S Cycles FB discussion forum, but I can't find it. S&S is having a problem with people who buy big inch motors, and ride around in 6th gear all the time, because they can...the massive torque of the big motors at low rpm makes it harder to recognize the symptoms of lugging.
The following is from a Subaru forum, but says it pretty well.

In normal operation on the compression stroke the piston compresses the air/fuel(A/F) mixture as the piston travels upward when the piston/crank shaft is at say 32 degrees(a common timing) before top dead center(TDC) the spark plug ignites the A/F mix causing it to explode and expand. The speed and momentum of the piston, connecting rod and crankshaft are able to over come this and the piston continues on its quest to reach and pass TDC, at which point the piston then moves downward on the power stroke making use of the energy released by the exploding A/F mix.

When you are lugging an engine, the piston, rod and crankshaft are barley able to overcome the ignition of the fuel air mixture. This results in the piston being pushed back down, thus pushing the rod down. Meanwhile the crankshaft still has rotational inertia trying to drive the rod and piston upwards. In that brief moment of the piston and rod being driven down by the expanding gases and the crankshaft still in rotation the oil that is buffering the rod bearing from the journal of the crankshaft is squeezed out, the rod bearing and the journal make metal to metal contact. Which is the sound you hear and what you feel is the engine fighting its self. There is some more to what is going on but this should be enough to scare you. Doing this basically creates the same chain of events as detonation due to ignition advance, poor fuel or excessive compression.

Long term negative effects.
1. Prematurely worn rod bearings and crankshaft.
2. Poor oil pressure as a result of excessive rod bearing clearances.
3. It is possible you could spin a rod bearing when it contacts the journal.
4. If done excessively you can weaken and break a crankshaft, rod or a piston.
5. It also places undo stress on the head gaskets.

Here are some poor images of damaged bearings.
Examples of Engine Bearing Failures

Much of this type of damage is visible on tear down and inspection of engine components. On engines with roller type rod/crank bearings this shows up as flat spots or burnelling on the rollers and or race. The recreational power sports industry see many engine rebuilds caused by this. ATVs used as work horses(plows, pulling...), motorcycles(primarily cruisers) where the owners do a lot of low rpm cruising(45-55mph) in a high gear and rarely changes gears. Sadly when you confront them about their riding style and habits while showing them the damaged parts and explaining what happened, most of them will argue that you are wrong. The heavier the load the more rpms are needed to keep you from lugging the engine. So a solo 160lb motorcycle rider may be able to get by with going 45mph in 5th gear at 2200rpm with out lugging the engine. If that rider adds a 150lb passenger they will have to down shift to 4th and be at say 2800rpm to avoid lugging it and maintain 45mph.

 

the above copied from current S&S break-in instructions for V-twin motors

 

I have put on 9,000 miles on two different turbo bikes... Short or Skip shifting is done more often than not. This acceleration process is done with quarter throttle .... not half to full lug pulls.... Who knows this may cause problems, yet none to date.....

 

I'd ride either one of those bikes.

I think there's more power to be had from that dyno chart. The couple of runs really went lean. I think turbo's you really want them running around 11.8-12.2 air/fuel ratio. I bet there's more power there close to 200..... I'd say 195ish if you fattened it up some more.