Configuring two 4-ch. amps??
#22
if you're using stock, there is none and you'll need an accessory wire to turn your amp off and on. If mounting in the fairing, the accessory wire is the orange/white wire taped to the headlamp harness about 8" from the end. Has a red rubber cap on it.
If you're using a PBR amp, stock head unit, and high level (speaker inputs) inputs then no remote wire is needed as the voltage signal is sensed on the input wires and turns off and on as needed.
#23
if you're using an aftermarket head unit, it's always been a standard blue or blue/white wire on the head unit.
if you're using stock, there is none and you'll need an accessory wire to turn your amp off and on. If mounting in the fairing, the accessory wire is the orange/white wire taped to the headlamp harness about 8" from the end. Has a red rubber cap on it.
If you're using a PBR amp, stock head unit, and high level (speaker inputs) inputs then no remote wire is needed as the voltage signal is sensed on the input wires and turns off and on as needed.
if you're using stock, there is none and you'll need an accessory wire to turn your amp off and on. If mounting in the fairing, the accessory wire is the orange/white wire taped to the headlamp harness about 8" from the end. Has a red rubber cap on it.
If you're using a PBR amp, stock head unit, and high level (speaker inputs) inputs then no remote wire is needed as the voltage signal is sensed on the input wires and turns off and on as needed.
#24
Question for either Glacierpearl or UltraNutz on the plate in the TP:
Mine is detachable, as it's mounted on a Street Glide. The detachable mounts are of course bolts into the fender-strut, but the mounting points for the Pak are covered in plastic. The front U-shaped point on the mount plate is plastic-lined where it connects to the bike-mounts, and the bike-mounted dock points are also wrapped in plastic, so there's really little if any metal-to-metal contact from the Tour Pak to the bike. Are you both running Ultra Classic/Electra Glide models with a solid mounted (non-detachable) Tour Pak? How can a detachable TP's metal baseplate create an adequate ground? Curious, since that would be the easiest way to ground an amp in the Pak, but I guess I'm uncertain as to the viability in my particular case.
Also, Ultra- I'm lost on how to wire up a distribution block, but I'm GUESSING it would be a wire hooked to the battery and running to said block, then each amp power lead would connect to the distro block instead of the battery directly (I'd guess a screw-down connection at the block) and then running back to each amp, with the fuse close to the Distro Block, correct?
Also, I'm EXTREMELY curious about the actual dimension of the Power Acoustik RZ4-2000D and whether it can fit in the fairing...I'm sort of thinking it MIGHT fit if mounted in "UltraNutZ" fashion, but if the 11 1/10" length measurement is between the 'feet' the bolts run through, then it might not be a go. However, look at this pic; the 'handles' or 'guards' on the top of the amp seem to extend about 1/2" or so (maybe more!) beyond the mounting 'feet'...which may mean the body is only an inch longer than the SS we all know DOES fit over the radio...hmmmmmm....it IS ony $109...and it IS only money...
Mine is detachable, as it's mounted on a Street Glide. The detachable mounts are of course bolts into the fender-strut, but the mounting points for the Pak are covered in plastic. The front U-shaped point on the mount plate is plastic-lined where it connects to the bike-mounts, and the bike-mounted dock points are also wrapped in plastic, so there's really little if any metal-to-metal contact from the Tour Pak to the bike. Are you both running Ultra Classic/Electra Glide models with a solid mounted (non-detachable) Tour Pak? How can a detachable TP's metal baseplate create an adequate ground? Curious, since that would be the easiest way to ground an amp in the Pak, but I guess I'm uncertain as to the viability in my particular case.
Also, Ultra- I'm lost on how to wire up a distribution block, but I'm GUESSING it would be a wire hooked to the battery and running to said block, then each amp power lead would connect to the distro block instead of the battery directly (I'd guess a screw-down connection at the block) and then running back to each amp, with the fuse close to the Distro Block, correct?
Also, I'm EXTREMELY curious about the actual dimension of the Power Acoustik RZ4-2000D and whether it can fit in the fairing...I'm sort of thinking it MIGHT fit if mounted in "UltraNutZ" fashion, but if the 11 1/10" length measurement is between the 'feet' the bolts run through, then it might not be a go. However, look at this pic; the 'handles' or 'guards' on the top of the amp seem to extend about 1/2" or so (maybe more!) beyond the mounting 'feet'...which may mean the body is only an inch longer than the SS we all know DOES fit over the radio...hmmmmmm....it IS ony $109...and it IS only money...
#25
Block is like you think. One large wire from the battery to the block, then all the smaller wires go to the block.
#26
Question for either Glacierpearl or UltraNutz on the plate in the TP:
Mine is detachable, as it's mounted on a Street Glide. The detachable mounts are of course bolts into the fender-strut, but the mounting points for the Pak are covered in plastic. The front U-shaped point on the mount plate is plastic-lined where it connects to the bike-mounts, and the bike-mounted dock points are also wrapped in plastic, so there's really little if any metal-to-metal contact from the Tour Pak to the bike. Are you both running Ultra Classic/Electra Glide models with a solid mounted (non-detachable) Tour Pak? How can a detachable TP's metal baseplate create an adequate ground? Curious, since that would be the easiest way to ground an amp in the Pak, but I guess I'm uncertain as to the viability in my particular case.
Mine is detachable, as it's mounted on a Street Glide. The detachable mounts are of course bolts into the fender-strut, but the mounting points for the Pak are covered in plastic. The front U-shaped point on the mount plate is plastic-lined where it connects to the bike-mounts, and the bike-mounted dock points are also wrapped in plastic, so there's really little if any metal-to-metal contact from the Tour Pak to the bike. Are you both running Ultra Classic/Electra Glide models with a solid mounted (non-detachable) Tour Pak? How can a detachable TP's metal baseplate create an adequate ground? Curious, since that would be the easiest way to ground an amp in the Pak, but I guess I'm uncertain as to the viability in my particular case.
Also, Ultra- I'm lost on how to wire up a distribution block, but I'm GUESSING it would be a wire hooked to the battery and running to said block, then each amp power lead would connect to the distro block instead of the battery directly (I'd guess a screw-down connection at the block) and then running back to each amp, with the fuse close to the Distro Block, correct?
1 4ga wire to the battery from the block FUSED and then everything else will connect to the block with it's own fuses.
Also, I'm EXTREMELY curious about the actual dimension of the Power Acoustik RZ4-2000D and whether it can fit in the fairing...I'm sort of thinking it MIGHT fit if mounted in "UltraNutZ" fashion, but if the 11 1/10" length measurement is between the 'feet' the bolts run through, then it might not be a go. However, look at this pic; the 'handles' or 'guards' on the top of the amp seem to extend about 1/2" or so (maybe more!) beyond the mounting 'feet'...which may mean the body is only an inch longer than the SS we all know DOES fit over the radio...hmmmmmm....it IS ony $109...and it IS only money...
#27
DAMN..you guys are all costing me MONEY!! Then again, my bike is my version of a "child" (single, no dependents), so...
Perhaps the plan is this: buy the amp and attempt to mount it in place of the SS. I'd need to increase my current wire gauge (10g to 8g per Ultras earlier opinion), then if it WILL fit, I figure the power numbers at 2 ohms (the load presented with my current parallel-wired speaker pairs front and rear) comes to 250 watts x 4 chan. That SHOULD (pardon my Army math) provide 125W per speaker pair...and that's more than I'm getting currently with the SS 4.520! THEN comes the difficult choice of buying a second one (or repurposing the SS to the TP). If it doesn't fit, then I have been given the info I should need to work on the Tour Pak installation mode. Win/Win?
$110 shipped...and Payday is tomorrow. Tempting...VERY tempting...
#29
I'll try to inform on the FM issues, but frankly, I'm not seeing much issue with the Soundstream amp, oddly enough! The strongest station around here isn't coming in well, but I actually have decent FM signal, for whatever reason...
Guinea Pig mode activated: I'll order tomorrow, and see where things go from there!
#30
Hey- I'm not THAT easy! (okay, maybe...)
I'll try to inform on the FM issues, but frankly, I'm not seeing much issue with the Soundstream amp, oddly enough! The strongest station around here isn't coming in well, but I actually have decent FM signal, for whatever reason...
Guinea Pig mode activated: I'll order tomorrow, and see where things go from there!
I'll try to inform on the FM issues, but frankly, I'm not seeing much issue with the Soundstream amp, oddly enough! The strongest station around here isn't coming in well, but I actually have decent FM signal, for whatever reason...
Guinea Pig mode activated: I'll order tomorrow, and see where things go from there!
FWIW, it looks like that amp lineup may be based off the same technology as the SS amps since they are both owned by Epsilon...