Audio Jargon
#1
Audio Jargon
Would anyone care to write up a post that explains the language used by audiophiles that some of us don't understand but would like to know what it is referring to. I would like to upgrade my sound system on my Ultra limited in the future but sometimes I get lost in reading some of the posts here. I know what you are speaking about when you talk about head units, speakers and amps. It's when you start talking about 2 ohms vs 4 ohms and other verbage that gets me. I don't want to become an audiophile but I would like to understand why things work and why I should spend more money other than because "he" or "she" said this is what I should have done. If the best you can offer is "google it" then thank you for your quick reply. I just think that it may be helpful to some of the other noobs besides myself who come here looking for answers.
#2
#3
Would anyone care to write up a post that explains the language used by audiophiles that some of us don't understand but would like to know what it is referring to. I would like to upgrade my sound system on my Ultra limited in the future but sometimes I get lost in reading some of the posts here. I know what you are speaking about when you talk about head units, speakers and amps. It's when you start talking about 2 ohms vs 4 ohms and other verbage that gets me. I don't want to become an audiophile but I would like to understand why things work and why I should spend more money other than because "he" or "she" said this is what I should have done. If the best you can offer is "google it" then thank you for your quick reply. I just think that it may be helpful to some of the other noobs besides myself who come here looking for answers.
2 ohm has less resistance than 4 ohm. Less resistance = power goes up. If your amp isn't 2 ohm stable, it will "draw" too much power out of the amp and it will clip. That's about as simple as I can make it.
Anything else?
#4
When it comes to audio, the only thing that matters is what you can hear. I know that that sounds dumb, but think about it for a second. If you don't have "refined" audio hearing - YES THERE IS SUCH A THING - you won't be able to hear the differences between a high end unit and a less expensive one. On a bike you should be looking for enough power to be able to hear it over the "roar" of the ride and sturdiness because it will live in a rough environment.
"technical" specs include -
power - RMS (total clean power output)
power - THD (total power output including distortion)
ohm output - (what the unit is rated for)
speaker impedance - (what the speakers are rated for)
wow & flutter (internal unit vibration)
More money won't necessarily make it better! My suggestion would be to listen to other units already out there and make a decision.
"technical" specs include -
power - RMS (total clean power output)
power - THD (total power output including distortion)
ohm output - (what the unit is rated for)
speaker impedance - (what the speakers are rated for)
wow & flutter (internal unit vibration)
More money won't necessarily make it better! My suggestion would be to listen to other units already out there and make a decision.
#5
Would anyone care to write up a post that explains the language used by audiophiles that some of us don't understand but would like to know what it is referring to. I would like to upgrade my sound system on my Ultra limited in the future but sometimes I get lost in reading some of the posts here. I know what you are speaking about when you talk about head units, speakers and amps. It's when you start talking about 2 ohms vs 4 ohms and other verbage that gets me. I don't want to become an audiophile but I would like to understand why things work and why I should spend more money other than because "he" or "she" said this is what I should have done. If the best you can offer is "google it" then thank you for your quick reply. I just think that it may be helpful to some of the other noobs besides myself who come here looking for answers.
There really is no reason (unless you're Me or one of the handful of individuals around here that are real audio nerds) to get involved in all the technical mumbo-jumbo. People all-too-often get hung up on what everyone else has, or what everyone else thinks. I have what I think is the best there is. GlacierPearl has what he thinks is the best there is. Pioneer74 has what he thinks is the best there is. John (J&M) has and promotes what he thinks is the best there is... Gannicus has what he thinks is the best there is. BigElvis has what he thinks is the best there is. The reason why? Because it sounds great to them and suits their needs/wants. Bottom line is none of it really matters except for what YOU think sounds the best to YOU.
If you go out to bike nights and such, don't be afraid to ask a brother you run into to listen to his setup. People who are proud of what they've done are happy to show it off. Listen to others as well including the stock stuff and the CVO stuff on the showroom floors.
Whether it be BoomAudio, J&M, Sony, Biketronics, Polk, Hogtunes, Hawg-Wired, Arc Audio, HAT, Pioneer, etc.; it all has it's place and that place is what pleases YOUR ear.
If you want advice on something, you'll get it here. Some will be biased, some will not but the good thing is the majority of people that usually hang around and contribute in here do know what they're doing and know what they're talking about regardless of brand or cost.
So in the end what I'm trying to tell you is; regardless of what your wife says, it really is ALL ABOUT YOU.
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#8
Single biggest factor is HMYWS: How Much You Wanna Spend. Tell these guys (UN, Pioneer, Glacier Pearl, etc) that figure and what you want to accomplish then do a little research on what they tell you. They have been a wealth of info to me... More so on what NOT to buy than what to buy.