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Soundstream PN4.520D Instalation

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Old 09-23-2013, 03:58 PM
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Default Soundstream PN4.520D Instalation

Just took delivery of the SS PN4.520D. While I'm comfortable connecting the speakers and setting gains etc, I'm not quite sure how to connect the amp to my Road King without a head unit. I'll just be using an ipod. The amp has connections for REM IN, REM OUT, GND and 12v

Ratrod64 explained in a previous post that:
REM IN =Remote in (turns the amp on with +12v; blue wire usually switched on with ignition)
REM OUT= Remote out to other amps, pwr antenna, etc (+12v output switched via REM IN)
GND= Chassis ground (0v)
12v= Dedicated power to battery (+12v)

On my Road King, I'm pretty sure I've got an open 12v plug under my seat. Can I use that? How exactly should I wire it? Get a male plug and then bare wire to the amp? Is their a better option? Where should I tap in on the bike to connect the REM IN blue wire? I guess I'm looking for step by step instructions on how to wire an amp on a Road King with no Fairing or Radio. I'm sure it's easy, just not sure what goes where. Any help would me much appreciated! I've searched high and low for instructions and have found none. I'd love to get this all set up, take pics and write directions for the next guy tackling a project like this. Thanks!
 

Last edited by speedracerx0509; 09-23-2013 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:07 PM
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The I/O you described isn't for sound. There hast to be either RCA I/O or screw terminals for speaker wiring for the sound input. Neither is capable of supporting an IPod without more eguipment.

The power supply SHOULDN'T be plugged into a DC power outlet. It needs to be wired ( correctly ) straight to the battery.
 
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:08 PM
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Had to send my radio to Iron Cross Audio because of the installation of the Sound Stream amp, Tony from Iron Cross says the Amp needs to be wired tied to the radio, to make it as close to a one piece unit. My application was velcroed to the radio, Tony say the vibration hurt the radio and after a while it will quit working.
It cost me $280 for this mistake, Hope everyone learns at my expense!!!
 
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:15 PM
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Personally I would think that the velcro would provide a nice little air gap for heat dissipation. But it does need to be secure too. Not really sure that strapping the two units together is such a good idea either. But where else would you put it? I've never done one on a bike.
 
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FXDWG12
The I/O you described isn't for sound. There hast to be either RCA I/O or screw terminals for speaker wiring for the sound input. Neither is capable of supporting an IPod without more eguipment.

The power supply SHOULDN'T be plugged into a DC power outlet. It needs to be wired ( correctly ) straight to the battery.
Yes, there are also RCA inputs and speaker outputs on the other side of the amp. I'm all set on how to wire that. It's how to power the amp is where I'm stuck.
 

Last edited by speedracerx0509; 09-23-2013 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by speedracerx0509
Yes, there are also RCA inputs and speaker outputs on the other side of the amp. I'm all set on how to wire that. It's how to power the amp is where I'm stuck.
Power wire directly to battery with inline fuse. Use at least #10 wire for power and ground. #8 is better.

Ground wire to frame, shortest as possible. Some run the ground back to battery or ground it inside the fairing. Do this at your own risk.

Use the orange wire capped off by your headlight harness for your remote on.

You can pick up an automotive amp install kit that should have everything you need.
 
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Pioneer74
Power wire directly to battery with inline fuse. Use at least #10 wire for power and ground. #8 is better.

Ground wire to frame, shortest as possible. Some run the ground back to battery or ground it inside the fairing. Do this at your own risk.

Use the orange wire capped off by your headlight harness for your remote on.

You can pick up an automotive amp install kit that should have everything you need.
Correct wire and fuse size.

Only one possible issue with grounding to battery would be in creating a feedback loop. However, grounding to the battery is recommended.
 
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Pioneer74
Power wire directly to battery with inline fuse. Use at least #10 wire for power and ground. #8 is better.

Ground wire to frame, shortest as possible. Some run the ground back to battery or ground it inside the fairing. Do this at your own risk.

Use the orange wire capped off by your headlight harness for your remote on.

You can pick up an automotive amp install kit that should have everything you need.
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but do I run one wire from the 12v connection on the amp to the positive terminal on the battery? What about the negative terminal on the battery? Don't I need to complete the circuit or is that what the orange wire is for?
 

Last edited by speedracerx0509; 09-23-2013 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by speedracerx0509
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but do I run one wire from the 12v connection on the amp to the positive terminal on the battery? What about the negative terminal on the battery? Don't I need to complete the circuit or is that what the orange wire is for?

Don't know how to make it any clearer. No offense, but maybe you should have it installed by a professional.

You run the fused wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the "+12v" on the amp..

You can run the ground wire back to the negative terminal of the battery, but I recommend grounding it to the frame.

The orange wire goes to the "rem" or remote turn on for the amp. The orange wire will not reach. You will have to make a jumper for it to reach to the amp. Use the same size wire or larger.
 
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Pioneer74
Don't know how to make it any clearer. No offense, but maybe you should have it installed by a professional.

You run the fused wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the "+12v" on the amp..

You can run the ground wire back to the negative terminal of the battery, but I recommend grounding it to the frame.

The orange wire goes to the "rem" or remote turn on for the amp. The orange wire will not reach. You will have to make a jumper for it to reach to the amp. Use the same size wire or larger.
No offence taken. This was the answer I was looking for. Thanks so much!
 


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