I just found this thread. I am having the same issue with the RF amp and the MM651's. I doubt anything is shorting out because all my wires are soldered and way out of the way of the fairing. The only thing I did was install the poly-fil tonight. I put in quiet a bit and sealed it good. I only have the problem on certain music. I suspect the frequency of the music and the poly-fil in conjunction with putting the fairing is doing it. It sounds distorted where it did not without things closed up. I suspect I may need to lower the gain on the amp but I think I am going to remove the poly-fil. Did you use it on your install? I know it's sounds better with it on but may be too much of a restriction for the cones in the speakers. I am certainly not a expert on audio systems. I just think you have to take a step back and look at what you did since it worked and then remove things one at a time. At least that is the approach I will take. My thought is this may also be why so many are blowing speakers but that's just a guess.

 

What's your definition of "quite a bit". Take the layered polyfil that is about 1/16" thick, cut it 12x12 and layer it maybe 3 or 4 times. Wrap that around your speaker tightly and put your fairing cap back on.

Too much of this stuff in either the fairings, lowers, or rear pods is just as bad as not enough. Gotta get it right..

 

The bag I bought was about 1/4 inch thick and I put 2 layers about the size you said. I think I will take it all off and run it for a bit then if all is well I'll add one layer back and see what happens. I guess I am not sure what is right as you say. From what I have read on the forum everybody is doing something a little different.

Going for my handgun carry renewal this morning and then back to it after lunch. I know it's amp overload because it comes back on in just a few seconds of turning down the volumn. I do know I am going to have an issue with input levels from the FM verus the Harley XM module. The XM is definitly a lower level but I doubt this can be solved.

 

can you tell me what all you have in your system currently please so I can have a clear picture of what you've got..

head unit, amp, speakers, etc.

I can assure you that polyfil is not causing your amp to shut down. It's going into protect mode for some reason and that usually means the amp is overheating or a speaker is shorting out (which would overheat the amp)

*edit*
oh and the polyfil you have is 4x the thickness of the stuff I recommend. Only use 1 layer of this size polyfil.

 

I did the poly-fil on all but the saddlebag speakers. I didn't go crazy on it; just a few wraps around the speakers. Don't exclude any wiring just because it's soldered. I made that mistake myself. Again, my solution was a line output converter, which my amp wasn't supposed to require. I don't know anything about the RF amps, so I can't help you there.

 

OK, here is what I have:

-2009 Ultra Classic
-XM/CB moved under stock HU and held in place by industral velcro.
RF PBR 300.2 amp driving 2 Polk MM651's in the fairing using Arc Audi adapters
- 10 guage positive and negative wires run directly to the battery with a 30 amp blade fuse in a holder with 10 guage wire.
-all connections are solder and heat shrinked. This includes cutting off the stock terminals. I wanted everything soldered.
- I did cut off about 12 inches from the inputs of the crossovers, lfte the output full length.
- 2 layers of walmart 1/4 poly-fil blue bag taped in place with duct tape. I have about a third of the poly covered in duck tape. May be part of my problem.
-Amp mounted on top of stock HU with industrial velcro.

I think that's everything. Got to head to class. I will watch and appreiate your help.

Harold

 

Harold only thing I see sir is the polyfil.. only place 1 layer on each fairing speaker and do not tape it up. It needs to breath to work properly. Simply tuck it tightly around the speaker and put your fairing cap back on, it will stay in place.

So here's what I suggest.
- remove all screws from your fairing EXCEPT the center windshield screw and only leave it threaded enough to hold the fairing cap in place while you test.
- Turn your stereo on and let it play until it shuts down again
- immediately take the center scew out and look at the blue light on the amp and see if it's red which means it went into protection mode. Now see if the amp is abnormally hot. If it is, could be a number of things including bad power and or ground. A bad ground will starve an amp for power causing it to overheat. Same with power.
- where are you getting your remote turn on from or are you using speaker wire inputs to the amp?

 

Good advise. I am turning on the amp with the speakers. I may just be losing that signal. I don't know because i can't see the amp. I will try what you said so i know weather its an overload or just turning off. When i turn the volume down and back up it comes right back on. I wonder how long an overload would take to clear. Where is the best place to hook the remote turn on? I was going to use the cig lighter plug but was told i didn't need to use the REM. sounds like a good idea to me just to hook it up and Always know the amp is on. What do you think?

 

no thats fine the way you have it.. was just curious. this amp is designed to take it's remote power input from the speaker leads. If you see that the amp is shutting off and not going into protect mode, then you might want to look at the voltage input adjustment **** (HL ADJUST). This is what determines exactly how much voltage is required to turn the amp on. If it's going into protect mode, it will usually take a couple of minutes to cool down and come back on.

 

Its only a few seconds to. reset. Where should the HL be set. To tell you the truth i didn't adjust it or know where it's set at. Will the cig liter work for the remote turn on. I wouldn't think it would take muck current.