diy speakers for a dummy
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I've had the both the Pyle and the HD Boom handlebar mounted speakers on my Softail. For the Pyle, I ran the amp all the way back to my saddlebags and just had the speaker cables go under the seat, tank and up to the speakers on the bars. For the HD, it has a waterproof amp that mounts to the front of the frame which was a whole lot easier. Not as familiar with the cycle sounds, but it looks like it is very similar in design to the HD Boom!
"600 Watt Marine Grade Frame Mountable Amplifier o In-line Noise Filter"
Not sure that "Marine Grade" and "Waterproof" are the same thing but it does say frame mounted, so would assume they factored that in. I would mount that amp to the front of the frame on your Fatboy. There is a support bracket just below the front of the gas tank, about 1/3 down on the front of the frame with a single bolt in it. I'm betting that bolt is just the right size for your amp mount. Run the power cable up the frame rail under the tank back to your battery. Other than that, it is just a matter of running your cables/wiring up to your handlebars and trying to make it look as neat as possible. It's a 10 minute install in most cases.
Spent a lot of time wiring speakers to my handlebars before finally saying SCREW IT, and moved up to a bagger to have the best of both worlds.
Have fun.
Mike
"600 Watt Marine Grade Frame Mountable Amplifier o In-line Noise Filter"
Not sure that "Marine Grade" and "Waterproof" are the same thing but it does say frame mounted, so would assume they factored that in. I would mount that amp to the front of the frame on your Fatboy. There is a support bracket just below the front of the gas tank, about 1/3 down on the front of the frame with a single bolt in it. I'm betting that bolt is just the right size for your amp mount. Run the power cable up the frame rail under the tank back to your battery. Other than that, it is just a matter of running your cables/wiring up to your handlebars and trying to make it look as neat as possible. It's a 10 minute install in most cases.
Spent a lot of time wiring speakers to my handlebars before finally saying SCREW IT, and moved up to a bagger to have the best of both worlds.
Have fun.
Mike
Okey dokey, I was going to mount the speakers on the handlebars near the mounting bracket. And i was thinking the amp could go on the frame. However I dont know where I would place the noise filter. I have a pouch on my dash between my tanks that could accomadate something too.
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I don't still have my softail service manual, so not sure on wire colors. Maybe someone in the Softail section can help out with that and make things easier. Assuming you can't find that answer... The headlight should have three wires.
1. Ground
2. High Beam Switch
3 Switched power. (this is the one you want)
Without a manual and wiring diagram, the easiest way to tell which of the wires is the one you want is to use a test light. You can pick these up cheap at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store, and is easy to use.
Open the headlight housing just like you would to change out a lamp, and disconnect the three prong plug.
Turn on your ignition so that there is power to your headlight wiring and make sure the high beam switch is off. Touch the test light probe to each quick disconnect in the plug until the light in the test light comes on. When it does, that is the wire that you want.
Note: Even if you get the info on which color wire you need, I would still do this test. Just an **** thing for me. I know a lot of people mean well, but aftermarket parts and configurations can sometimes change things and slip you up. I would still do it even if I had the wiring diagram in front of me on a used bike. If I bought it new and hadn't changed anything, I am more likely to trust the schematics. Just my .02
If it were me, I would try to run that power wire from your amp into the headlight housing following the path of the headlight wiring from the harness,and splice into the wire a couple of inches back from the plug. I've seen others do that to control their amp through a switched power source, but personally have never done it, and you would probably also have to also remove the headlight housing completely to do so. Not hard, as it is all just bolt on stuff. Otherwise, you can try and trace that wire back behind the steering neck and tap in there. Lots of different options for splicing, but if you are really nervous about it, just use an in-line splice that you can get at any parts store. Your kit for your speakers probably even comes with one already.
Hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if you get stuck. Lots of others on this forum have helped me out a great deal, so hope to pay those kindnesses forward.
Good luck
Mike
1. Ground
2. High Beam Switch
3 Switched power. (this is the one you want)
Without a manual and wiring diagram, the easiest way to tell which of the wires is the one you want is to use a test light. You can pick these up cheap at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store, and is easy to use.
Open the headlight housing just like you would to change out a lamp, and disconnect the three prong plug.
Turn on your ignition so that there is power to your headlight wiring and make sure the high beam switch is off. Touch the test light probe to each quick disconnect in the plug until the light in the test light comes on. When it does, that is the wire that you want.
Note: Even if you get the info on which color wire you need, I would still do this test. Just an **** thing for me. I know a lot of people mean well, but aftermarket parts and configurations can sometimes change things and slip you up. I would still do it even if I had the wiring diagram in front of me on a used bike. If I bought it new and hadn't changed anything, I am more likely to trust the schematics. Just my .02
If it were me, I would try to run that power wire from your amp into the headlight housing following the path of the headlight wiring from the harness,and splice into the wire a couple of inches back from the plug. I've seen others do that to control their amp through a switched power source, but personally have never done it, and you would probably also have to also remove the headlight housing completely to do so. Not hard, as it is all just bolt on stuff. Otherwise, you can try and trace that wire back behind the steering neck and tap in there. Lots of different options for splicing, but if you are really nervous about it, just use an in-line splice that you can get at any parts store. Your kit for your speakers probably even comes with one already.
Hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if you get stuck. Lots of others on this forum have helped me out a great deal, so hope to pay those kindnesses forward.
Good luck
Mike
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inside the headlight bucket is an orange/white wire with a red rubber cap on it. This is an accessory power lead.
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