Which AMP Has Most Power Output??
#1
Which AMP Has Most Power Output??
I own an '09 Street Glide. I've already added an amp up under the fairing along with 6 1/2 inch speakers in the fairing. But I'd like to have more volume. What's the best amp with the most power available that will mount under the fairing? I'm looking for a 2-channel amp, not a 4-channel amp....and I do not have lower fairings. So, I'm trying to get the most sound out of two-speakers.
Jim
Jim
#2
Maybe rephrase the question - which Speakers are MOST efficient?
this would be rated at decibels per watt usually tested at 1 metre.
Many, many aftermarket speakers are not very efficient- meaning that although "high power" amps are installed- the speakers cannot translate that electrical power into sound waves.
Part of this problem can be the passive frequency dividing networks in which full frequency electrical signal has the low frequencies drained to ground and the high frequencies allowed through a capacitor/resistor/coil type network to the tweeters.
These networks can easily rob 30% of available power.
I see these "piggybacked" on many of the consumer speakers at bike and car audio shops.
Sometimes a "full range" speaker can sound almost as good tonally as a "2-way" system AND provide MUCH more perceived volume
also "weather proofed" cone material can be less sensitive.
When I last replaced speakers on my old bike ( 1995 FLHTC- just sold it ), I looked at all the right size speakers at my local audio superstore.
I then dialed up a signal that I was familiar with ( a classic rock station)
put the head unit tone controls at "flat", and used the switches to select the different speaker pairs.
It was evident very quickly which speakers produced more sound per watt- I narrowed down by listening to which speakers sounded "most natural"---in the end I spent a whopping $45 on a set of polk audio speakers which have lasted these last 9 years.
BTW paper cone speakers can be "scotch guarded" for some weather resistance.
I recently got into an 09 FLHTC and am quite happy with the volume available from the stock pair of speakers, the low distortion from the HK unit. I do have some quibbles with the tonal characteristics in the high midrange- and maybe look to make a change down the line.
amps- as subjective as speakers wattage ratings are almost meaningless.
many units out there have just horrible distortion specs- less than .02% total harmonic distortion (THD) used to be the golden standard. Now I see consumer units with over 5% THD.
And with the advent of digital switching amps, sample rate or frequency becomes VERY important.
MK
( working in the concert sound world for over 30 years- riding for longer)
this would be rated at decibels per watt usually tested at 1 metre.
Many, many aftermarket speakers are not very efficient- meaning that although "high power" amps are installed- the speakers cannot translate that electrical power into sound waves.
Part of this problem can be the passive frequency dividing networks in which full frequency electrical signal has the low frequencies drained to ground and the high frequencies allowed through a capacitor/resistor/coil type network to the tweeters.
These networks can easily rob 30% of available power.
I see these "piggybacked" on many of the consumer speakers at bike and car audio shops.
Sometimes a "full range" speaker can sound almost as good tonally as a "2-way" system AND provide MUCH more perceived volume
also "weather proofed" cone material can be less sensitive.
When I last replaced speakers on my old bike ( 1995 FLHTC- just sold it ), I looked at all the right size speakers at my local audio superstore.
I then dialed up a signal that I was familiar with ( a classic rock station)
put the head unit tone controls at "flat", and used the switches to select the different speaker pairs.
It was evident very quickly which speakers produced more sound per watt- I narrowed down by listening to which speakers sounded "most natural"---in the end I spent a whopping $45 on a set of polk audio speakers which have lasted these last 9 years.
BTW paper cone speakers can be "scotch guarded" for some weather resistance.
I recently got into an 09 FLHTC and am quite happy with the volume available from the stock pair of speakers, the low distortion from the HK unit. I do have some quibbles with the tonal characteristics in the high midrange- and maybe look to make a change down the line.
amps- as subjective as speakers wattage ratings are almost meaningless.
many units out there have just horrible distortion specs- less than .02% total harmonic distortion (THD) used to be the golden standard. Now I see consumer units with over 5% THD.
And with the advent of digital switching amps, sample rate or frequency becomes VERY important.
MK
( working in the concert sound world for over 30 years- riding for longer)
Last edited by mkguitar; 11-29-2010 at 01:47 PM.
#4
The Arc 125.2 is a two-channel, 125W per channel @ 2ohm; 70W per channel @ 4ohm impedance. J&M sells essentially the same amp under their name with wiring harnesses for an easier installation. Both are extremely popular; I have the 125.2 and can't imagine needing a more powerful amp to drive two 6.5" speakers.
Hawg-wired offers several 150W, two channel amps providing 75W per channel @ 4 ohms; and a 300W amp that can be configured for two or four channel operation. The latter is probably the most powerful amp available for mounting inside the fairing
and costs close to $1K.
Good luck with your search.
Carl
PS: If you use the search function you'll find a ton of threads on amps generally, and the Arc and J&M amps specifically. Also, there's a "sticky" at the top of the Touring forum on the J&M amp installation.
Hawg-wired offers several 150W, two channel amps providing 75W per channel @ 4 ohms; and a 300W amp that can be configured for two or four channel operation. The latter is probably the most powerful amp available for mounting inside the fairing
and costs close to $1K.
Good luck with your search.
Carl
PS: If you use the search function you'll find a ton of threads on amps generally, and the Arc and J&M amps specifically. Also, there's a "sticky" at the top of the Touring forum on the J&M amp installation.
#5
#6
Thanks for those who responded to my amp question.
My next question seeks your opinions as to which head unit works best as a replacement to the HK unit. I would like to have a head unit with line-out capabilities. I also want to retain the ability to control all functions just as I do now from the handlebar controls. Does such a head unit exist?
Thanks,
Jim
My next question seeks your opinions as to which head unit works best as a replacement to the HK unit. I would like to have a head unit with line-out capabilities. I also want to retain the ability to control all functions just as I do now from the handlebar controls. Does such a head unit exist?
Thanks,
Jim
#7
I did a killer stereo upgrade, back in April. I was told that my ARC mini was a great amp & I should keep it. I did, and have great, loud, clear, undistorted volume & absolutely HUGE bass. I started a thread here. I'm the guy who has the Woofpak in my tourpak. Hertz-Titan speakers up front, were recommended to me by the stereo installer. TERRIFIC sound. If there are speakers out there that are better, I want to know what they are ---- I'll have them! (09 EG Classic)
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#8
Thanks for those who responded to my amp question.
My next question seeks your opinions as to which head unit works best as a replacement to the HK unit. I would like to have a head unit with line-out capabilities. I also want to retain the ability to control all functions just as I do now from the handlebar controls. Does such a head unit exist?
Thanks,
Jim
My next question seeks your opinions as to which head unit works best as a replacement to the HK unit. I would like to have a head unit with line-out capabilities. I also want to retain the ability to control all functions just as I do now from the handlebar controls. Does such a head unit exist?
Thanks,
Jim
Iron Cross Audio are experts on the Harman Kardon head unit and offer a variety of great services, including adding pre-amp outputs to the HK:
http://www.ironcrossaudio.com/additional-services.html
Also, as nice as this Audio forum may become, you'll get far greater responses posting your questions on the Touring Forum which is where almost all audio related threads/information is/are posted.
Carl
#9
#10
I have more than a simple, basic understanding of audio systems. I do know the speakers are the most important component. If one's speakers can't reproduce the audio sent to them, why spend a cent on high end, high quality power. I get it!
I presently have 6 1/2 inch Biketronic Titan XLs in place of the stock POS factory speakers installed in the fairing. I'm also running the Biketronic amp.
My problem stems from running a D&D Fat Cat Boss 2 into 1 exhaust system. With the exhaust combined with the wind noise and motor noise, etc. I'm having to turn the audio gain on the HK to maximum just to hear some of the music. It might be that I'm asking too much from a single pair of 6 1/2 inch speakers.
That's why I asked the question the way I did.
I presently have 6 1/2 inch Biketronic Titan XLs in place of the stock POS factory speakers installed in the fairing. I'm also running the Biketronic amp.
My problem stems from running a D&D Fat Cat Boss 2 into 1 exhaust system. With the exhaust combined with the wind noise and motor noise, etc. I'm having to turn the audio gain on the HK to maximum just to hear some of the music. It might be that I'm asking too much from a single pair of 6 1/2 inch speakers.
That's why I asked the question the way I did.