Right now I'm looking at the PN4.1000D and the ST4.1200D amps. Finding the best speakers as well.

Only plan on running two speakers on my ultra classic. The stealth does not mention bridging RMS, but the picasso nano says 500W X 2. Non-bridged, the picasso beats the stealth by 40RMS for 4 ohm, and by 100RMS for 2 ohm. For a $30 difference, I would prefer the Nano. The size of the stealth is enticing though. How much would size matter? The picasso nano is 10 inches long and I have seen pictures of it installed.

Also not sure if these come with wiring. I am an idiot when it comes to amp wiring and know nothing about it. Soundstream has wiring kits but doesn't specify what it's meant for. Also see some "one size fits all" wiring kits for harley on Amazon. What gauge wire should I use? What all do I need to make sure I have? I am using an aftermarket single-din head unit. I can't find much online about the wiring.

Seems like a no brainer to go with 2 ohm, but I really don't know much about it. It doesn't mention bridging 2 ohm, can it not be done?

 

The Nano is a good budget amp it fits in the fairing of a bat wing pre rushmore. I am not sure what you ride. I dont think it is 2 ohm stable bridged, A set of Mmats pa601.cx would work nice or the Ground zero coax. You should probably tell the class the rest of your system. Budget and desires out of you new system

 

Pyle head unit. Not sure what kind. It was given to me by a friend, I listened to the Pyle radio on his bike and it actually sounded pretty good, just had no amp so couldn't hear it over the exhaust when revved and probably not over a certain speed.
2001 Ultra Classic.

If the amp has higher output than the speakers, how do I keep from blowing the speakers?

So a 4 ohm bridged would be better than a 2 ohm speaker if I'm only running two.
(I ride without the tour pack and have pegboards and softbrakes so can't run lower fairings.)

 

The choices of 2ohm speakers are few. In a bike you need speakers built for a bike not a car. I had a 2012 ultra and the Nano fit but it was very tight. That will destroy your FM radio so if that matters you will need to look at something else. A very good combo is Mmats PA601.cx and stinger amp. The stinger will keep your FM.

 

I have the ss amp and it does fit but not without persuasion in my 08 flhx. Im running mmats up top and hertz below. I haven't messed with speaker locations at all. I had the hertz alone and just moved them down to have the new stuff up top. I don't really have any complaints about any of it. It's Def not even semi pro level but it's better than what I had with only 2 speakers. If I had to do it over again I'd get the stinger amp just for it's size but at the time I he price difference was a little more

 

Sounds like the Stealth might be the better option.

Took a look at Stinger but $270 for similar performance, I don't know how much better it is. If I would spend that money might as well get a hertz or Rocker fosgate, but soundstream seems like a reputable budget amp with good power.

 

The Stealth was not a good amp. It didnt make rated power. Lots of thread on it 8-10 years ago. RF amps are junk low on power and options. Hertz are good but that Stinger is a very good amp.

 

As for the speakers, I will probably go with the MMATS that were recommended. I have a dumb question though:
It says sold individually, I'm assuming I'll need to buy two for my two fairing speakers. That's a lot of money but less than other speakers and have heard great things about those MMATS.

 

Yes buy 2 and get the water treatment. Buy once and cry once. and teamed with this amp you will keep your FM and it will sound good. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stinger-S...SellerId=11516

 

The Stinger SPX700X4 appears to have the same specs as the 350, just with 4 channels. It is $50 more, would it be worth getting the 4 channel for bridging opportunity? I found an RCA setup that has 2 connected into four, which seems like it would make sense for bridging.

I also see the stinger amp wiring kits. Most amp wiring kits I see are 17ft wires. How would that make sense? What do I need 17ft for to hook to the speakers? Unless it's just a coil meant to cut and use as needed?

After a little research, sounds like I should get:

1. Quick disconnect for wires (Aftermarket head unit given to me by a friend, has 11 wires sticking out. Was going to put the applicable wires into the disconnect, and plug into original harness.) Currently a pain to find online,
2. 2 RCA cables for head unit to amp. Or if I get the 4 channel, get the four into 2 for bridging. No clue why it needs to be 17ft.
3. 8 gauge wire for REM, power, ground, not sure if speaker wires are 8 gauge.
4. 60A fuse for 4 channel, 30A for 2 channel depending on which I get
5. Wire Ferrules - Will the quick disconnect still work with wire ferrules? If not, I would have to take the wires off the original harness and make them individual.

Is that it? Would you recommend doing anything differently?
I appreciate the help, when I learn more I'll pay it back.