Bass response , help to understand it.
#1
Bass response , help to understand it.
I'm still quite confused as to this concept ? I had a Sound Digital 800.4 amp installed with Ground Zero 6.5 speakers in the Fairing, 6.5 D B Euphorias in the lowers. I don't have a Digital Sound Processor , just a Sound Output Converter. The infotainment unit has been flashed. Volume isn't a problem but a lack of Bass in the sound is. I don't have any speakers in the bags. Is the issue here, that these are mid range speakers ? I seem to remember some speakers, I.E. the ARC Moto 602's, seem to sound better. What am I missing here ? Sorry, I just don't get it but I'm trying... I'm not expecting ground shaking bass response...
Last edited by ral819; 03-11-2022 at 12:06 PM.
#2
#4
There's so much to say about this. You need to do a ton of research to really get your head around all of it but here's a few points (generic and not specific to our bike sound systems):
- bass frequencies need to move a lot of air, This requires cone surface area and/or excursion (cone movement in and out).
- 6.5 speakers are best for the mid-range frequencies and not great as subwoofers (too small and/or not enough excursion). Ideally, you have a separate subwoofer (or subs) just for this purpose. While you're at it you also want tweeters for those high frequencies but that's for another discussion.
- those lower bass frequencies also need a lot of power to energize the voice coils to move the cones in the speaker. This usually means higher-powered amps or even a separate amp just for the subwoofer(s).
- to save your 6.5s from distorting or even frying you need to actually block off (filter) those bass frequencies from reaching them.
- subwoofers perform best in enclosures (vented or not will depend on a number of factors) so now the available space comes into play. Where and how to place your subs for the best performance.
Finally, and this is specific to bikes as they are an open environment (vs a car), is the phenomenon whereby we lose a lot of our low-end sound when we are moving. I'm not 100% sure but maybe this is just ambient noise or maybe it's physics (doppler effect?).
So understanding the above might help with some level-setting of your expectations.
- bass frequencies need to move a lot of air, This requires cone surface area and/or excursion (cone movement in and out).
- 6.5 speakers are best for the mid-range frequencies and not great as subwoofers (too small and/or not enough excursion). Ideally, you have a separate subwoofer (or subs) just for this purpose. While you're at it you also want tweeters for those high frequencies but that's for another discussion.
- those lower bass frequencies also need a lot of power to energize the voice coils to move the cones in the speaker. This usually means higher-powered amps or even a separate amp just for the subwoofer(s).
- to save your 6.5s from distorting or even frying you need to actually block off (filter) those bass frequencies from reaching them.
- subwoofers perform best in enclosures (vented or not will depend on a number of factors) so now the available space comes into play. Where and how to place your subs for the best performance.
Finally, and this is specific to bikes as they are an open environment (vs a car), is the phenomenon whereby we lose a lot of our low-end sound when we are moving. I'm not 100% sure but maybe this is just ambient noise or maybe it's physics (doppler effect?).
So understanding the above might help with some level-setting of your expectations.
Last edited by hamah; 03-11-2022 at 12:28 PM.
#5
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madhunter60 (03-11-2022)
#6
There's so much to say about this. You need to do a ton of research to really get your head around all of it but here's a few points (generic and not specific to our bike sound systems):
- bass frequencies need to move a lot of air, This requires cone surface area and/or excursion (cone movement in and out).
- 6.5 speakers are best for the mid-range frequencies and not great as subwoofers (too small and/or not enough excursion). Ideally, you have a separate subwoofer (or subs) just for this purpose. While you're at it you also want tweeters for those high frequencies but that's for another discussion.
- those lower bass frequencies also need a lot of power to energize the voice coils to move the cones in the speaker. This usually means higher-powered amps or even a separate amp just for the subwoofer(s).
- to save your 6.5s from frying you need to actually block off (filter) those bass frequencies from reaching them.
- subwoofers perform best in enclosures (vented or not will depend on a number of factors) so now the available space comes into play. Where and how to place your subs for the best performance.
Finally, and this is specific to bikes as they are an open environment (vs a car), is the phenomenon whereby we lose a lot of our low-end sound when we are moving. I'm not 100% sure but maybe this is just ambient noise or maybe it's physics (doppler effect?).
So understanding the above might help with some level-setting of your expectations.
- bass frequencies need to move a lot of air, This requires cone surface area and/or excursion (cone movement in and out).
- 6.5 speakers are best for the mid-range frequencies and not great as subwoofers (too small and/or not enough excursion). Ideally, you have a separate subwoofer (or subs) just for this purpose. While you're at it you also want tweeters for those high frequencies but that's for another discussion.
- those lower bass frequencies also need a lot of power to energize the voice coils to move the cones in the speaker. This usually means higher-powered amps or even a separate amp just for the subwoofer(s).
- to save your 6.5s from frying you need to actually block off (filter) those bass frequencies from reaching them.
- subwoofers perform best in enclosures (vented or not will depend on a number of factors) so now the available space comes into play. Where and how to place your subs for the best performance.
Finally, and this is specific to bikes as they are an open environment (vs a car), is the phenomenon whereby we lose a lot of our low-end sound when we are moving. I'm not 100% sure but maybe this is just ambient noise or maybe it's physics (doppler effect?).
So understanding the above might help with some level-setting of your expectations.
Are you handy enough to take the fairing off and do some checking and maybe testing then? Assuming you took it back to your installer and still not happy with their "fix".
#7
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#8
#10
As teedoff was saying they could get a bit more aggressive on the filter (HPF) to allow a little more of the lower frequencies through. Be aware that doing this too aggressively comes with risk. Those lower frequencies require more power which might lead to clipping or possibly over-excursion of the mids. If the installer knows what they're doing this won't be an issue.
They will explain all this to you