Yup...here's a couple of threads you can check out here on the forum. One member tried just disconnecting it and got lots of flashing & error codes. Another member thinks dealer may be able to disable it in the ECM/BCM since it's discontinued and apparently dealers have been instructed to remove them? Gonna ask the dealer next time mine's in there.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...ng-models.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...e-removed.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/audio...t-is-this.html you even commented in this thread

Now back to our regular scheduled programming and helping the OP...

 

Thanks!

Yeah after I said maybe I could get rid of it, I thought about it throwing codes. In fact, if I remember, when I was doing my audio install, I forgot to connect it back up and got some codes. I'll check with my dealer and see if there's a way to remove it.

 

Bates, how low could I expect to bring the GZ's down? If I drop the wattage, would I ten be able to bring the speakers lower?

Secondly, what would you suggest for wiring harnesses, are there any prebuilt that I could purchase for the amps?
Will I need speaker grilles for the Cicadas in the pods?
Is the Cicada DSP-88 an DSP easier to use for tuning?

 

You need to consider the balance of some mid bass along with hearing the speaker at 75 MPH. I think most are crossing them at about 90-100HZ @ 225-300 Watts. YMMV

 

Fireball, can you help me understand a bit more? This is where I tend to "get lost in translation".

Originally I was stuck on how do I adjust for the different wattage of speakers between the fairing and the pods, but after watching many videos, I see that with a DSP I "think" that I can adjust each channel (speakers) to cross at the correct HZ. I can set the output HZ curve to manufacturers spec and adjust from there, I am not sure as to what DSP to order, based on ease of use for a novice, and also based on wiring harness. Say for example, a Dayton DSP-408, is there a wiring harness that I can purchase for that to "wire into" my system? I have been looking at the Dayton DSP-408 and the DSR-1. as my 2 choices.

So now on speakers and amps, Using a DSP to get the sound (warmth) that I will be looking for, would I be better off with the GZ Coax in the fairing on a SD800.4 bridged, or should I be looking at something different where I would have mid bass speakers and tweeters on an amp, on their own channel, to tame the tweeters? If so what equipment would you suggest for that set up? I am then looking at the Cicada Coax for the pods on their own amp bridged. Does that sound correct for staging?

What other ancillary parts pieces would I need to complete my "set up". What is the power block or ground block that I read about that goes up under the fairing for powering the amps and DSP?

I know that I keep getting stuck at the same spot. I am so ready to order my equipment. I am ":stuck" because I am hoping that I am asking the correct questions, looking for answers that I don't know if I need or not. Sounds weird I know,

Thank you all for your help.

 

Again, don't set those GZ's to 50 hz. They wont last long. Get them installed with about 250 watts at most and start at 100hz. You can drop them a touch lower after you have an undistorted signal.

Any DSP you buy will have a harness with power, ground and remote turn ons built in. Some. maybe all, come with speaker level wiring as well as RCA harnesses if you use RCA level connections. I have the dayton and for the money it works as well as any of them. Most of the DSP software I think is similar in features and functions. Bit of a learning curve learning to use one, but lots of help here and youtube. There are guys that also offer remote tuning services if you wanna go that route.

GZ's in the fairing is fine. If you want to go to component speakers, you may need to rethink you whole setup. if im understanding your question .

You can run a distribution block if you want. But you want to run your main power and ground all the way from your battery. Then that would run into a dist block. You can then come out from that dist block with smaller awg cables running to your amp.

Its a daunting thing deciding on what to buy. Especially when it comes to doing your own install. You think if you buy this or that, and wind up not using it, or not being able to use it, its nerve racking. Take your time with your parts list. I would reach out to aggressive audio on FB and buy from them. He'll walk you through everything you need for your setup, so you know you'll have everything once you're ready for install.

 

Hey,
I‘m from Germany and I‘m riding a Road Glide special 2021.
I was wondering whether you could help me with a few questions.
I want a two speaker rider bike. I already installed Herz SX165 Neo. But it’s not loud enough on the highway. I aim to get a louder sound and more base. But if it’s possible without a DSP.
I was thinking of getting the GZ 6.5SPL with SD400.4 or SD800.4. Which one would you recommend and why? Is it necessary to get the bigger amp or does the SD400.4 have enough power?

Thank you in advance.



Greetings from Germany
Sören

 

The SD 400.4 would work but for 2 speaker GZ's I would look at the Stinger SPX700.4 it is a Warmer sounding amp and has 350x2 bridges. You will need to get the radio flashed to flatten the EQ curve.

 

Thank you for your response. I‘ll check if I could Order this amp in Germany.
Do you recommend the stinger amp only because of the warmer Sound? Because the SD800.4 hat More Power as well.

 

Yes the Stinger is a warmer sound the SD can be harsh.