Audio Install 2020SGS
#71
Dash Plug? If you are talking about the 3 plugs that go into the back of the speedo assembly, in the second photo you can see them all plugged in.
Also, there are no fans that I can see on these amps. The bottom of them is solid. The plate is Aluminum as is the casing of the GTS radio, that should dissipate much of the heat, and the fairing isn't exactly airtight, so hopefully they get enough cooling. Also, I am not planning on sitting in a parking lot and blasting this, I would rather annoy the public while in motion.
Also, there are no fans that I can see on these amps. The bottom of them is solid. The plate is Aluminum as is the casing of the GTS radio, that should dissipate much of the heat, and the fairing isn't exactly airtight, so hopefully they get enough cooling. Also, I am not planning on sitting in a parking lot and blasting this, I would rather annoy the public while in motion.
#72
The power wires run right below the plug on the gas gauge, I will probably wrap the gauge wiring with some shielded tape. The center plug has plenty of room, hard to see, but nothing is touching or pushing against it. The other plug has all sorts of space around it. I will definitely watch out for this issue though. Thanks for the heads up.
#73
#74
Waterproof amps?
Are these amps water resistant? If not are you concerned about that? Maybe your bike never sees rain? Please let us know your thoughts on water concerns. Love your build and would be interested in those amps if water resistance is not a concern. Also, what about FM reception concerns? Thanks in advance.
#75
Are these amps water resistant? If not are you concerned about that? Maybe your bike never sees rain? Please let us know your thoughts on water concerns. Love your build and would be interested in those amps if water resistance is not a concern. Also, what about FM reception concerns? Thanks in advance.
There are other amps that are fm friendly if thats a concern.
#77
DAY 16:
took a few days off. Was 113 for a few days and the garage was too hot to work in. No breeze to move the air.
Today got all the wiring up front finished. Pulled the speaker wires back off so I can set alongains next.
also got all the wire ran down the frame and the battery tray area cleaned up. Got bags mounted and everything is ready to go.
Tomorrow is flash the radio, set amp gains and start tuning the DSP. Have watched lots of videos and read lots of stuff and got a tone of advice. Going to see how good I can get it. Backup plan is I got a friend of a friend that does car and bike audio and he will help me clean it up.
Fairing all buttoned up. Ready to set gains, then hook speakers back up and close it all up.
Ended up having to take out the factory cover that fits above the battery. Gives me much more room. And everything fits great. Took some measurements and going to 3D print some caps for the terminals just to make sure nothing crosses them.
Speakers look good in the bags. Have a small rub when it closes if I don’t lift up a little. Ordered some 1/2” spacers, but not sure that will solve the problem. Will just have to be careful. Maybe out a little abrasion tape on the speaker edge.
Love the look of the *** end with the new lids.
took a few days off. Was 113 for a few days and the garage was too hot to work in. No breeze to move the air.
Today got all the wiring up front finished. Pulled the speaker wires back off so I can set alongains next.
also got all the wire ran down the frame and the battery tray area cleaned up. Got bags mounted and everything is ready to go.
Tomorrow is flash the radio, set amp gains and start tuning the DSP. Have watched lots of videos and read lots of stuff and got a tone of advice. Going to see how good I can get it. Backup plan is I got a friend of a friend that does car and bike audio and he will help me clean it up.
Fairing all buttoned up. Ready to set gains, then hook speakers back up and close it all up.
Ended up having to take out the factory cover that fits above the battery. Gives me much more room. And everything fits great. Took some measurements and going to 3D print some caps for the terminals just to make sure nothing crosses them.
Speakers look good in the bags. Have a small rub when it closes if I don’t lift up a little. Ordered some 1/2” spacers, but not sure that will solve the problem. Will just have to be careful. Maybe out a little abrasion tape on the speaker edge.
Love the look of the *** end with the new lids.
#78
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malfvnction (08-08-2021)
#79
DAY 17:
Finally! Got it all together and played some sounds. Right now the horns are screaming, and need to get it all tuned.
Setting gains, I think I did it the best way to give me some immediate ability to modify as the speakers break in a little and protect the speakers. I may not be getting every last ounce of power from them, but I’d rather err on the side of caution at this point.
So I first used the DD-1 and found the volume of the head unit where distortion started. For me 4 bars from max is clean, 3 bars showed distortion. Using this volume on head unit, I then used the DD-1 again to find the max gain setting on the amp until I got distortion. I marked these spots and then measured the voltage so I know what my my max cleans watts was.
I then looked up the voltages for RMS and Max power for each speaker. Using a multimeter I then dialed the gains back on the amps until I hit the max power.
Now is where I went off normal script a little. I then used the DSR1 and used the trim settings to dial back the voltages until I was at the RMS watts for each speaker. So based on how the speaker performs I can now just use the DSR app and increase the wattage up to the max.
loaded up some some tunes and while the horns are screaming, the music played good and have no distortion all the way up to max.
Next step is the use an RTA app and dial in the sound some, then play some songs I know how I want them to sound and finish it by ear.
I do have a question though. When setting the EQ in the DSR, so I play the pink noise and flatten the curve for each speaker? Or do I use the master eq and just flatten the whole thing?
Finally! Got it all together and played some sounds. Right now the horns are screaming, and need to get it all tuned.
Setting gains, I think I did it the best way to give me some immediate ability to modify as the speakers break in a little and protect the speakers. I may not be getting every last ounce of power from them, but I’d rather err on the side of caution at this point.
So I first used the DD-1 and found the volume of the head unit where distortion started. For me 4 bars from max is clean, 3 bars showed distortion. Using this volume on head unit, I then used the DD-1 again to find the max gain setting on the amp until I got distortion. I marked these spots and then measured the voltage so I know what my my max cleans watts was.
I then looked up the voltages for RMS and Max power for each speaker. Using a multimeter I then dialed the gains back on the amps until I hit the max power.
Now is where I went off normal script a little. I then used the DSR1 and used the trim settings to dial back the voltages until I was at the RMS watts for each speaker. So based on how the speaker performs I can now just use the DSR app and increase the wattage up to the max.
loaded up some some tunes and while the horns are screaming, the music played good and have no distortion all the way up to max.
Next step is the use an RTA app and dial in the sound some, then play some songs I know how I want them to sound and finish it by ear.
I do have a question though. When setting the EQ in the DSR, so I play the pink noise and flatten the curve for each speaker? Or do I use the master eq and just flatten the whole thing?
#80
DAY ???
Getting oh so close to the sound I want. Have reset the EQ's a few times in the DSR1. Watched some more vids and read some car audio forums, as they tend to be a little more detailed with the process.
I do have the rears sounding great. I think being a coax full range it is a little easier to use the pink noise to get a flat RTA curve, since the range is much wider and the adjustments just seem to work better. On the horns and mids, I can get them individually fairly flat on the RTA, but when I play them together they are still a little tinny and hollow, not the rich warm sounds I have heard from a similar bike in a shop here in LV.
After reading some, I am going to go a slightly different route. I am first going to look at the phases and make sure I am getting the best sound first. My assumption was with such short wire runs and single speakers that this wouldn't be a problem, but apparently they can switch even in these conditions. It was suggested to set the simple EQ first to as flat as possible on the RTA with the limited channels it has, then go speaker pair by speaker pair and further set them. I have been doing it reversed based on something else I previously saw.
I do have some questions that if anyone has knowledge, it would be great to have some answers:
1.) is 12db slope common? Is there any advantage to a steeper slope? My horn for example has a range of 2500hz and up. When I put in that setting in the DSR, the EQ curve actually starts at 100hz. is this impacting the horn? or do I need to have the starting range higher so the EQ slope starts at 2500hz?
2.) In addition to trying to get a flat slope in in the RTA with pink noise, am I also trying to dial them down so they all play in the same db rtange? Or do I set them flat and then use the gains or DSR trim value to bring the volume up or down?
Thanks for any help
Getting oh so close to the sound I want. Have reset the EQ's a few times in the DSR1. Watched some more vids and read some car audio forums, as they tend to be a little more detailed with the process.
I do have the rears sounding great. I think being a coax full range it is a little easier to use the pink noise to get a flat RTA curve, since the range is much wider and the adjustments just seem to work better. On the horns and mids, I can get them individually fairly flat on the RTA, but when I play them together they are still a little tinny and hollow, not the rich warm sounds I have heard from a similar bike in a shop here in LV.
After reading some, I am going to go a slightly different route. I am first going to look at the phases and make sure I am getting the best sound first. My assumption was with such short wire runs and single speakers that this wouldn't be a problem, but apparently they can switch even in these conditions. It was suggested to set the simple EQ first to as flat as possible on the RTA with the limited channels it has, then go speaker pair by speaker pair and further set them. I have been doing it reversed based on something else I previously saw.
I do have some questions that if anyone has knowledge, it would be great to have some answers:
1.) is 12db slope common? Is there any advantage to a steeper slope? My horn for example has a range of 2500hz and up. When I put in that setting in the DSR, the EQ curve actually starts at 100hz. is this impacting the horn? or do I need to have the starting range higher so the EQ slope starts at 2500hz?
2.) In addition to trying to get a flat slope in in the RTA with pink noise, am I also trying to dial them down so they all play in the same db rtange? Or do I set them flat and then use the gains or DSR trim value to bring the volume up or down?
Thanks for any help