Few questions for the experts as I put my bike back together. I have a 2020 RGS with a stock head unit.
1. I have some Dynamat to put over the holes in the speaker pods. I think the clearance between the outer faring and back of the Ground Zero's is very tight. Has anyone raised the Ground zeros slightly? Would using spacers be detrimental to the speakers because of the lack of a solid foundation?
2. I have set the gains according to the Sound Digital manual. It definitely has power! I have the harness run for the bag speakers I will install this winter but currently, they are just zip-tied under the seat. Currently there are only the two faring speakers. Should I turn the gains down? I have not set anything else.
3. My system is not flashed. I have the DSR1 from American Hardbags that has the preloaded EQ file that is advertised to have the best frequency response for the stock radio. Do I need to change anything within the DSR1?
Thanks for the advice.

 

Re: #2

Disconnect the rca input for the rear speakers for now.

So I talked to an engineer at sound digital. He said all Class D amplifiers have an exit filter on. They were made to be run with a load with the prescribed resistance. Short durations without this load ie. while setting voltages is acceptable. However, if you continue to amplify a signal that goes essentially nowhere you run the risk of burning up the amp. He said that this happens a lot with Harley owners with a tour pack that just disconnect tour pack.

What he told me is you have three options.
#1 If you have a DSP mute those channels
#2 If you have working fade control fade all the way forward Essentially cutting input voltage
#3 Disconnect RCA in for those channels Because no voltage in means no amplification and no heat

Hope this helps.

Also, I can’t speak to your other questions as well as others on here.

 

Thank you! That makes sense. I will look at disconnecting the RCA's or doing it with the DSR.

 

You are correct in that it's a tight fit with the GZ's bigger magnet. Most seem to be able to get the outer fairing back on without issue, but a few of us (me included) have had problems. All I can figure is it's a manufacturing tolerance (+/-) that unfortunately a few of us are on the wrong side of.

I previously had the Mmats in there fine but after putting the GZ's in, my outer fairing was very difficult to get back in place...and this was with no sound deadening over the relief holes. I did finally get it on and ran it this way for a while. The next time I removed the fairing, my problem was confirmed as the inside of the fairing was marked/scratched from the GZ magnets contacting it. My first instinct was to fashion a spacer (1/8") to get it away from the fairing. The problem with this is if you look at the way your speaker grill mounts, there is very little clearance between the speaker & the bottom, inside tab "tower". Spacing the speaker out could put that "tower" in contact with the speaker.

Others here suggested loosening the pods and trying to get a bit of adjustment out of them. I tried this and not sure if it moved much or not? I ended up putting the sound deadening over the holes and made a "ring" out of the sound deadening material that I used as a spacer for the speaker. I then left the speaker mounting screws loose, put the fairing back on (easier), and then tightened the speaker mounting screws after the fairing was back on. I removed the little retainer clip from the grill mounting tab (for a hair more clearance). This is more of a test but so far the grill has stayed in place. I may now come up with a 1/8" spacer for the speaker & actually clip that tab off (maybe come up with a velcro fastening solution for the grill).