how to wire pod lowers speakers?
#11
Yes, now you are using the amps' output. Yes as mentioned you can run many speaker on 1 amp.......all depends on the amp/wiring and ohm load along with watts. If the AMP has a switch that says, 2/4 channel, then you can switch that to 4 and all 4 are alive on the amp' output side.....if not you will split it. What amp and what HU and speakers?
#12
I think Willie said in another thread he had just bought the new Rockford head unit. That unit has separate front and rear preamp outputs. When I ran a similar rig I ran the front preamp outputs to the amp channels powering the fairing speakers and the rear preamp outputs to the channels feeding the lowers. That way I could use the fader function to balance them out at speed and blend them the way I wanted to. Typically lowers will require a little more volume to blend properly with the fairing.
Once the inputs are sorted just run new speaker wires from your amp to the speakers themselves. As others have mentioned getting a good set of coaxial speakers for your fairing will simplify the connection (just two wires needed).
Edit: I just saw on ANOTHER thread that Willie is apparently running J&M John's fairing speakers which are more than likely two ohms impedance. Willie you need to make sure your amp can handle a two ohm load. It should say so in the instructions. If it can then you should be good to go. The extra two wires you are seeing should be the tweeter wires which would remain connected to the crossover mounted on the speaker itself.
If however Willie's Rockford amp is the old PBR300x4 Rockford says on their website that it is only capable of a four ohm load. If he tries to hook that up to that two ohm J&M speaker it may let the smoke out of the amp.
Once the inputs are sorted just run new speaker wires from your amp to the speakers themselves. As others have mentioned getting a good set of coaxial speakers for your fairing will simplify the connection (just two wires needed).
Edit: I just saw on ANOTHER thread that Willie is apparently running J&M John's fairing speakers which are more than likely two ohms impedance. Willie you need to make sure your amp can handle a two ohm load. It should say so in the instructions. If it can then you should be good to go. The extra two wires you are seeing should be the tweeter wires which would remain connected to the crossover mounted on the speaker itself.
If however Willie's Rockford amp is the old PBR300x4 Rockford says on their website that it is only capable of a four ohm load. If he tries to hook that up to that two ohm J&M speaker it may let the smoke out of the amp.
my plan is to pull the J&M speakers and and RF to the fearing and lower pods using the same amp and the new RF head unit thanks
#13
#14
I think Willie said in another thread he had just bought the new Rockford head unit. That unit has separate front and rear preamp outputs. When I ran a similar rig I ran the front preamp outputs to the amp channels powering the fairing speakers and the rear preamp outputs to the channels feeding the lowers. That way I could use the fader function to balance them out at speed and blend them the way I wanted to. Typically lowers will require a little more volume to blend properly with the fairing.
Once the inputs are sorted just run new speaker wires from your amp to the speakers themselves. As others have mentioned getting a good set of coaxial speakers for your fairing will simplify the connection (just two wires needed).
Edit: I just saw on ANOTHER thread that Willie is apparently running J&M John's fairing speakers which are more than likely two ohms impedance. Willie you need to make sure your amp can handle a two ohm load. It should say so in the instructions. If it can then you should be good to go. The extra two wires you are seeing should be the tweeter wires which would remain connected to the crossover mounted on the speaker itself.
If however Willie's Rockford amp is the old PBR300x4 Rockford says on their website that it is only capable of a four ohm load. If he tries to hook that up to that two ohm J&M speaker it may let the smoke out of the amp.
Once the inputs are sorted just run new speaker wires from your amp to the speakers themselves. As others have mentioned getting a good set of coaxial speakers for your fairing will simplify the connection (just two wires needed).
Edit: I just saw on ANOTHER thread that Willie is apparently running J&M John's fairing speakers which are more than likely two ohms impedance. Willie you need to make sure your amp can handle a two ohm load. It should say so in the instructions. If it can then you should be good to go. The extra two wires you are seeing should be the tweeter wires which would remain connected to the crossover mounted on the speaker itself.
If however Willie's Rockford amp is the old PBR300x4 Rockford says on their website that it is only capable of a four ohm load. If he tries to hook that up to that two ohm J&M speaker it may let the smoke out of the amp.
#16
I think Willie said in another thread he had just bought the new Rockford head unit. That unit has separate front and rear preamp outputs. When I ran a similar rig I ran the front preamp outputs to the amp channels powering the fairing speakers and the rear preamp outputs to the channels feeding the lowers. That way I could use the fader function to balance them out at speed and blend them the way I wanted to. Typically lowers will require a little more volume to blend properly with the fairing.
Once the inputs are sorted just run new speaker wires from your amp to the speakers themselves. As others have mentioned getting a good set of coaxial speakers for your fairing will simplify the connection (just two wires needed).
Edit: I just saw on ANOTHER thread that Willie is apparently running J&M John's fairing speakers which are more than likely two ohms impedance. Willie you need to make sure your amp can handle a two ohm load. It should say so in the instructions. If it can then you should be good to go. The extra two wires you are seeing should be the tweeter wires which would remain connected to the crossover mounted on the speaker itself.
If however Willie's Rockford amp is the old PBR300x4 Rockford says on their website that it is only capable of a four ohm load. If he tries to hook that up to that two ohm J&M speaker it may let the smoke out of the amp.
Once the inputs are sorted just run new speaker wires from your amp to the speakers themselves. As others have mentioned getting a good set of coaxial speakers for your fairing will simplify the connection (just two wires needed).
Edit: I just saw on ANOTHER thread that Willie is apparently running J&M John's fairing speakers which are more than likely two ohms impedance. Willie you need to make sure your amp can handle a two ohm load. It should say so in the instructions. If it can then you should be good to go. The extra two wires you are seeing should be the tweeter wires which would remain connected to the crossover mounted on the speaker itself.
If however Willie's Rockford amp is the old PBR300x4 Rockford says on their website that it is only capable of a four ohm load. If he tries to hook that up to that two ohm J&M speaker it may let the smoke out of the amp.
so after looking up this harness it plugs into the back of the HU and has only 4 wires i figure i need this and have to wire it to the input side of the amp..
The HU is advertised as a Motorcycle radio but the instructions don't specifically explain how to wire it for a bike. thanks
#17
Willie, that harness is only needed if you do not have an aftermarket amp, which you do. Just simply plug the RCA outputs front the head unit into the amplifiers RCA cables (on your head unit you need to remove a little metal cover and plug the RCA harnesses in first). As I mentioned you could use the Front Outputs (Grey) to feed the two channels of your amp going to the fairing speakers and the Rear Outputs (Black) to the two channels of your amp going to the lowers. Here is a screenshot from your head unit's owner's manual:
Also according to Rockford your amp can handle a two ohm load:
Rated Power
(RMS Continuous Power)
50 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm
100 Watts x 4 @ 2-Ohm
200 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm Bridged
The problem is you will be sending roughly twice as much power to your fairing speakers as your lowers. In a real world scenario that is bass ackwards. You usually need more power to your lowers than your fairing speakers to be able to hear them as good as the two in the fairing.
I know it's easy to get confused so I'll lay it down as best I can in this short amount of time:
Your amp is not up to the task, you need a better one.
Your fairing speakers are not a good choice for the direction you want to go, you need better ones.
Basically the only good component you have in play at this point in time is your head unit. This is not based off my personal opinion but off of years of experience from folks on this forum that wasted lots of cash to learn those lessons.
If you want to stay on a budget you could get the Stinger 700 amp and some budget 6.5s to fill the four holes. So much stuff is out of stock these days I don't know what you can get ahold of now. There are a couple of Arc 600.4 amps for sale on the BST forum that might be a good bet if you can't find a Stinger (the Arc Moto 600.4 supplies a solid 150 watts on all four channels).
As far as speakers go it used to be the Polk MM 652 6.5s could be had for about $150 a pair. A lot of folks like the Mmats coaxials but they are about twice the price. At the top of the food chain these days are the GZ yellow basket coaxials, but they are hard to find and pricey.
Give folks your bottom dollar budget and they can help you better choose your components.
I've you've read this far I just had a brain fart that might save you a little cash. The Arc Moto 600.4 amplifier supplies constant power whether it sees a two ohm load or four. In that scenario it would still just supply 150 watts each if you hooked it up to the fairing speakers you have now. The other two channels would also supply 150 watts each to whatever two speakers you have in your lowers. I myself am using that Arc amp on top of my head unit because it doesn't interfere with FM reception like most class D amps do. That being said I have been told that the Stinger 700 amp which puts out 125 watts times four channels is also FM friendly.
Good luck
Also according to Rockford your amp can handle a two ohm load:
Rated Power
(RMS Continuous Power)
50 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm
100 Watts x 4 @ 2-Ohm
200 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm Bridged
The problem is you will be sending roughly twice as much power to your fairing speakers as your lowers. In a real world scenario that is bass ackwards. You usually need more power to your lowers than your fairing speakers to be able to hear them as good as the two in the fairing.
I know it's easy to get confused so I'll lay it down as best I can in this short amount of time:
Your amp is not up to the task, you need a better one.
Your fairing speakers are not a good choice for the direction you want to go, you need better ones.
Basically the only good component you have in play at this point in time is your head unit. This is not based off my personal opinion but off of years of experience from folks on this forum that wasted lots of cash to learn those lessons.
If you want to stay on a budget you could get the Stinger 700 amp and some budget 6.5s to fill the four holes. So much stuff is out of stock these days I don't know what you can get ahold of now. There are a couple of Arc 600.4 amps for sale on the BST forum that might be a good bet if you can't find a Stinger (the Arc Moto 600.4 supplies a solid 150 watts on all four channels).
As far as speakers go it used to be the Polk MM 652 6.5s could be had for about $150 a pair. A lot of folks like the Mmats coaxials but they are about twice the price. At the top of the food chain these days are the GZ yellow basket coaxials, but they are hard to find and pricey.
Give folks your bottom dollar budget and they can help you better choose your components.
I've you've read this far I just had a brain fart that might save you a little cash. The Arc Moto 600.4 amplifier supplies constant power whether it sees a two ohm load or four. In that scenario it would still just supply 150 watts each if you hooked it up to the fairing speakers you have now. The other two channels would also supply 150 watts each to whatever two speakers you have in your lowers. I myself am using that Arc amp on top of my head unit because it doesn't interfere with FM reception like most class D amps do. That being said I have been told that the Stinger 700 amp which puts out 125 watts times four channels is also FM friendly.
Good luck
#18
its simple really one was for who makes lowers, one for how to wire and one about the grills all me but different questions
#19
Willie, that harness is only needed if you do not have an aftermarket amp, which you do. Just simply plug the RCA outputs front the head unit into the amplifiers RCA cables (on your head unit you need to remove a little metal cover and plug the RCA harnesses in first). As I mentioned you could use the Front Outputs (Grey) to feed the two channels of your amp going to the fairing speakers and the Rear Outputs (Black) to the two channels of your amp going to the lowers. Here is a screenshot from your head unit's owner's manual:
Also according to Rockford your amp can handle a two ohm load:
Rated Power
(RMS Continuous Power)
50 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm
100 Watts x 4 @ 2-Ohm
200 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm Bridged
The problem is you will be sending roughly twice as much power to your fairing speakers as your lowers. In a real world scenario that is bass ackwards. You usually need more power to your lowers than your fairing speakers to be able to hear them as good as the two in the fairing.
I know it's easy to get confused so I'll lay it down as best I can in this short amount of time:
Your amp is not up to the task, you need a better one.
Your fairing speakers are not a good choice for the direction you want to go, you need better ones.
Basically the only good component you have in play at this point in time is your head unit. This is not based off my personal opinion but off of years of experience from folks on this forum that wasted lots of cash to learn those lessons.
If you want to stay on a budget you could get the Stinger 700 amp and some budget 6.5s to fill the four holes. So much stuff is out of stock these days I don't know what you can get ahold of now. There are a couple of Arc 600.4 amps for sale on the BST forum that might be a good bet if you can't find a Stinger (the Arc Moto 600.4 supplies a solid 150 watts on all four channels).
As far as speakers go it used to be the Polk MM 652 6.5s could be had for about $150 a pair. A lot of folks like the Mmats coaxials but they are about twice the price. At the top of the food chain these days are the GZ yellow basket coaxials, but they are hard to find and pricey.
Give folks your bottom dollar budget and they can help you better choose your components.
I've you've read this far I just had a brain fart that might save you a little cash. The Arc Moto 600.4 amplifier supplies constant power whether it sees a two ohm load or four. In that scenario it would still just supply 150 watts each if you hooked it up to the fairing speakers you have now. The other two channels would also supply 150 watts each to whatever two speakers you have in your lowers. I myself am using that Arc amp on top of my head unit because it doesn't interfere with FM reception like most class D amps do. That being said I have been told that the Stinger 700 amp which puts out 125 watts times four channels is also FM friendly.
Good luck
Also according to Rockford your amp can handle a two ohm load:
Rated Power
(RMS Continuous Power)
50 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm
100 Watts x 4 @ 2-Ohm
200 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm Bridged
The problem is you will be sending roughly twice as much power to your fairing speakers as your lowers. In a real world scenario that is bass ackwards. You usually need more power to your lowers than your fairing speakers to be able to hear them as good as the two in the fairing.
I know it's easy to get confused so I'll lay it down as best I can in this short amount of time:
Your amp is not up to the task, you need a better one.
Your fairing speakers are not a good choice for the direction you want to go, you need better ones.
Basically the only good component you have in play at this point in time is your head unit. This is not based off my personal opinion but off of years of experience from folks on this forum that wasted lots of cash to learn those lessons.
If you want to stay on a budget you could get the Stinger 700 amp and some budget 6.5s to fill the four holes. So much stuff is out of stock these days I don't know what you can get ahold of now. There are a couple of Arc 600.4 amps for sale on the BST forum that might be a good bet if you can't find a Stinger (the Arc Moto 600.4 supplies a solid 150 watts on all four channels).
As far as speakers go it used to be the Polk MM 652 6.5s could be had for about $150 a pair. A lot of folks like the Mmats coaxials but they are about twice the price. At the top of the food chain these days are the GZ yellow basket coaxials, but they are hard to find and pricey.
Give folks your bottom dollar budget and they can help you better choose your components.
I've you've read this far I just had a brain fart that might save you a little cash. The Arc Moto 600.4 amplifier supplies constant power whether it sees a two ohm load or four. In that scenario it would still just supply 150 watts each if you hooked it up to the fairing speakers you have now. The other two channels would also supply 150 watts each to whatever two speakers you have in your lowers. I myself am using that Arc amp on top of my head unit because it doesn't interfere with FM reception like most class D amps do. That being said I have been told that the Stinger 700 amp which puts out 125 watts times four channels is also FM friendly.
Good luck
i currently have the RF HU installed, i pull the J&M out of the fairing add 4 speakers 2 in fairing and 2 in lowers. the RF i have will do? or should i get the GZ? after i get all this together i will go bigger on the amp. does this sound like a decent plan? i dont have to have the best ,but my budget is whatever if you say i need better in the lowers then thats what i want to do.
could you explain how i am pushing more power to the fronts than the lowers, i want to fix that, regards
#20
The RF amp wont be enough power for those GZ's I dont think.
I really think you either need to limit your expectations with the equipment you currently have, or start from scratch and consider replacing the amp and speakers to something that you'll be happy with.
But like I said, I cant keep up with what you have or dont have. I think I saw mention of you running one of the RF amps in one of your threads.
I really think you either need to limit your expectations with the equipment you currently have, or start from scratch and consider replacing the amp and speakers to something that you'll be happy with.
But like I said, I cant keep up with what you have or dont have. I think I saw mention of you running one of the RF amps in one of your threads.