So I always always always forget to take pics. I got my kickers installed and everything wired up into the fairing. Got the PN4 1000d amp mounted on top of my Aquatic Av HU and all wired up. Got the gains set via multimeter. Sounds awesome! (2011 flhtcu BTW)

First attempt to put the fairing on was a no go. Fairing was a good inch away from connecting properly. Took it off, rerouted a couple plugs and whatnot and tried again. The amp is on top of the head unit and not sticking out any further than it either. The fairing gets pretty close but it doesn't butt right up to the holes.

Question is how does the fairing normally fit? Does it effortlessly match up to the inner fairing? The only time I've ever had this thing off was when I changed a clutch cable last year and I do remember needing to put some pressure on it. Especially the two lower screws.

So when putting the fairing back on I had to put pressure on the fairing to mate the screw. Not like body weight amount of pressure but probably a good 10 - 15lbs. Let's just say I pulled with one hand and pressed and turned the screw with the other.

Normal or no? Something to worry about or no? I've read posts warning about the screws stripping out or the nuts mounted in the fairing popping loose but that was after I put it all together.

 

IMHO that outer fairing should fit as if it were OEM. Take the headlight out and reach in and feel where the touch points are. Adjust accordingly.

T

 

Ugh ok crap. I assume then that it ought to mate with the inner fairing on its out without putting pressure on it huh?

 

^^^ this has been easiest way to figure out how to get everything situated.

 

Yeah I've seen that suggestion. I just wish I paid more attention to how the fairing mated to the inner fairing prior to removing it. I'm unsure do to my recollection of it being a somewhat tight fit the last time I had it off without the amp inside.

I'm gonna take it off this weekend and pull the headlight and go from there. I am just paranoid about stripping out the fairing screws from constantly taking them in and out.

Do those fairing screw repair kits work the same for the lower four attachment points or are they just for the 3 windshield screws?

 

Not sure about those because I always drilled a little bit out before I put them in. I've never had to do it in the other holes. What I do is I put the middle windshield screw in first but not all the way just to hold it up and see if it naturally lays on the inner fairing. If it doesn't I adjust until it does. I've not used the amp you're using but I have a dsp a 400.4 and 800.4 in mine. And it is Definitely snug but I didn't have to squeeze it on. The amp will not fit above the hu?

 

Well it does fit but I'm thinking I did not get it far enough back. The front edge is inline with the Aquatic AV head unit front edge. (front being the headlight side not gas tank side). I figured that would give me adequate space. First attempt to fit the fairing it was at least an inch off so I repositioned some wires and plugs and got the fairing to sit much closer, just not flush. I did not pay enough attention to how the fairing mated to the inner fairing when I removed the screws so I do not have a reference on how it was supposed to fit prior to adding the amp. At that point I resecured the fairing but needed to apply pressure (maybe 10-15lbs) to get the screws to grab. The lowest right side screw was did not go in as easy as the others and now I am concerned that I a) over tightened it & b)stripped or otherwise damaged it and wont find out until I attempt to remove it. After some research after the fact I am now concerned about riding with it and causing more damage to the fairing mounts. So I would like to get in there and fix the amp mounting so the fairing sits flush but I am almost certain I am going to need to repair something.

 

You shouldn’t have to force the batwing back in position nor do you want to. You don’t want stress on those mounting bolts.
that amp is wide you need to get it as close to the back of the gauges as you can, otherwise the corners will hit the inside of the fairing where it curves down. There is a wire harness ifo the gauges that will have to be rerouted. Also because of its width it will be a tight fit and a pita for making connections. Another option is an amp tray but I can’t recall if the tray fits with the Aquatic headunit.
this is mine with an aftermarket HU but shows how tight it is between the brackets and the extra space behind gauges with harness out of the way.
send a pic of yours so we can see what you’re dealing with.

 

Where did you reroute that harness? Is it just pushed down under that amp bracket? I like how it is angled though and can see how that offers more room up top for the fairing. I'll have to see about repositioning it but idk if I'll luck out without a mount. If it's that much of a pita I may just buy a different amp.
I more worried about my fairing at this point. Of course I can't do anything until this weekend so I'm helpless at the moment.

I also always forget about taking pictures so I don't have any currently.

 

glsec I can tell you from experience that if you have that amp laying flat on the head unit you will most likely have to trim some of the plastic off of the bottom of the speedo and tach housing to get it to slide back far enough. You should not have to put any pressure on the outer fairing to get it back on. I was actually able to put sound deadening material on the inside of my fairing when I got the amp as far back as I did. Here is a top down pic of my amp when it was installed:



I don't know if this is the best way to do it but it worked for me. I did have a problem with the front two RCA jacks hitting the frame rail. I made a set of right angle RCA plugs so it would clear. If you flipped the amp around it might do away with that problem I don't know for sure though.