just imagine what it was like to fit 2 of those in there.! i wish i would have taken pics prior, but after an hour or two of trying to got the fairing to fit there was no chance i was taking it back off for pics lol

 

Haha no worries. I'm sure I'll figure it out with the help of these pics and the advice. I'm more concerned with the fairings mounting points after reading all the posts about repairing them. I bought the replacement screws and taps and nut extender thingys in the even I need to do the repairs. Crossing fingers

 

I have had my fairing off at least fifty times with the original screws and bushings still in good working order. The key is to not force the fairing cap back on and do not over tighten the screws. If you are concerned about the screws getting loose you can use a SMALL drop of blue Loctite on them.

Here is a quote I pulled from the Harley newsgroup back in the days when we were all on dial up connections (news groups were the predecessors of the forums we use now and required special software to access):

All parts should go together without forcing. you must remember that the parts you are reassembling were disassembled by you. Therefore, if you can't get them together again, there must be a reason. By all means, do not use a hammer. --IBM maintenance manual, 1925

 

Good point!

 

Got the fairing back off last night as started moving things around. I got the amp to go back probably another inch. right now the only thing giving me grief with touching the fairing is the parts circled in red. (right side circle more so than the top red circle)
That plug on the right side contains the plugs taken off the factory radio and the whole wire bundle/s attached with it are a PITA to move and reposition. What did you guys do with this bundle? All the pics I have seen I cannot even see that bundle but mine refuses to go (without some serious coercion) anywhere else but along that right side. I'm not trying to cause wire damage and create another problem.
The top circled bundle I cannot get to lay any closer to the amp. Should I cut some of the weather covers to gain some flexibility?

 

From what I can see in your pic the amp still needs to slide back some. Maybe take a top down pic for us if you can. Here are some more pics for comparison in case it helps.

 

I'm not having an issue with the fairing hitting the amp. It's the extra wiring on the right side that I am having trouble routing in their currently configured bundles.

 

From what I can see in comparing your photos and mine the reason you can't tuck those wires back is because the amp corner is still in the way. Look at the top wiring harness in my photos and yours. You can see that the wiring harness sits over about the middle of my amp from front to back. On yours it sits on the back edge meaning it is still too far forward. Most likely the right (clutch side) of your amp are hitting the fairing cap. You can see in your photo it is farther forward than the left side.

Edit: In looking at your photo again the amp is WAY too far forward, not just a little bit.

Back when I ran this amp I spent a good amount of time fiddling with it and didn't make any real progress until I got the amp all the way back against the gauges, which required trimming some of the black plastic off of the bottom of their mounts. My bike is a 2010 Ultra so I imagine the innards are the same as yours. As I mentioned you can tell by how your amp isn't sitting straight in relation to the edge of the head unit that you still have a ways to go.

I had a LOT more equipment under my fairing with the same type of mounting method you are using. I believe at that time I had my CB module, GPS power supply, two PAC ground loop isolators, an amp tray and a low voltage trigger module. I also had all the factory wiring still in place because I kept the factory head unit, so all the wiring on the right (clutch) side that you unplugged was still in place.

 

I'll double check here in daylight but I couldn't see that amp touching the fairing. Maybe it was the lighting. Reason it is slightly crooked is due to the rcas hitting the support bracket. Guess I need some right angle plugs for that.

 

glsec you may have better luck by turning the amp around like I did. If I recall the power and speaker wire plugs are positioned closer to one end than the other. The frame rails play a role in how far that thing will slide back. They were so close to my RCA plugs that I had to make a set of right angle plugs on one of my patch cables to get them to plug in. Here is a pic that shows what I mean:




Orientation of the amp came into play when I moved my PN4.1000d to the rear of my bike. I wanted to place it on the forward facing edge of the saddlebag because that's where my previous rear amp was. It just wouldn't fit on the brake side bag which was where I was mocking it up because the power and speaker terminals hit the support channel on that bag. When I removed the amp that was in the clutch side bag and tried it in there I found that the terminals missed the support (it was off center) and it dropped down enough for the lid to close properly.

Maybe someone who has mounted the amp in the orientation that you are doing will have some more info, but one way or another it looks like it needs to go back farther. A lot of folks have shorter head units which allows them to angle the amp downward a bit which helps a lot. It looks like with the length of your head unit you do not have that option.