glsec I can tell you from experience that if you have that amp laying flat on the head unit you will most likely have to trim some of the plastic off of the bottom of the speedo and tach housing to get it to slide back far enough. You should not have to put any pressure on the outer fairing to get it back on. I was actually able to put sound deadening material on the inside of my fairing when I got the amp as far back as I did. Here is a top down pic of my amp when it was installed:
I don't know if this is the best way to do it but it worked for me. I did have a problem with the front two RCA jacks hitting the frame rail. I made a set of right angle RCA plugs so it would clear. If you flipped the amp around it might do away with that problem I don't know for sure though.
Mine is actually flipped already so maybe that will help out. When I get back in there I'll try this. Do you recall of your amp rode about a 1/2 inch above the HU? The verticle support rails have an indent just above the HU so is the whole amp resting on those indents? Also is it fairly obvious what parts of the plastic need trimmed away? Thank you BTW. I am fairly certain I've seen this pic in prior posts but I wasn't able to open it to a viewable size from those posts.
Do you recall of your amp rode about a 1/2 inch above the HU? The verticle support rails have an indent just above the HU so is the whole amp resting on those indents?
I still have the stock head unit and used an amp tray so I think that filled the gap. I suspect the gap you describe may be normal if you have an aftermarket head unit without an amp tray.
Also is it fairly obvious what parts of the plastic need trimmed away?
I think it will make sense to you when you look at the amp pushed up against the gauges. All I had to to was take a pair of dikes and cut away a little bit of the bottom of the black plastic housing on the speedo and tach. I don't think it took too awful much to get it to fit.
Get ahold of Badd Azz Bikes and get you an amp rack. It will make all the difference in the world. Attachment 601830
What would be the more cost effective option? I assume a custom made amp rack with shipping will cost as much as this PN4. I got it off Amazon and could potentially return it and get the Stinger SPX700 or another similar amp instead and have it fit without the headache.
I used a piece of 1/2 thick foam on tpo of my kenwood deck. the foam came with a pair of speakers and then reroute the wire harnesses, It took me about 45 mins with the headlight out on my 2012 ultra. That amp is a tight fit but it does fit.
I used a piece of 1/2 thick foam on tpo of my kenwood deck. the foam came with a pair of speakers and then reroute the wire harnesses, It took me about 45 mins with the headlight out on my 2012 ultra. That amp is a tight fit but it does fit.
Fairing fit flush without coersion? Any cutting of Guage molding needed?
Fairing fit flush without coersion? Any cutting of Guage molding needed?
Yes.I had it off and on 20-30 times. You have to push it back as far as it will go and I had to raise it up. Once you take the headlight out you will be able to see what is hitting. I remember having to reroute the wire harnesses that went on top of the radio. I used double back tape and a couple big zip ties to secure the amp down.
Yes.I had it off and on 20-30 times. You have to push it back as far as it will go and I had to raise it up. Once you take the headlight out you will be able to see what is hitting. I remember having to reroute the wire harnesses that went on top of the radio. I used double back tape and a couple big zip ties to secure the amp down.
04-17-2020 | 09:30 AM
