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Confusion choosing correct fuse/wire gauge CV B52 amp

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Old 10-02-2019, 06:55 PM
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Default Confusion choosing correct fuse/wire gauge CV B52 amp

Hi all.

I have a Cerwin Vega B52 amp I am pairing with 2 JBL GTO829 6.5" 3Ohm speakers. I am stuffing those along with an Infinity PRV250 into an enclosure box that bolts onto the Road King's detachable windshield.

https://cerwinvegamobile.com/product...mplifiers/b52/

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...BL-GTO629.html

I have been trying to decide on the wire gauge and inline fuse sizes I need for the setup. CV website states that the B52 needs a 25A fuse. Common internet wisdom seems to dictate using a 8 gauge wire on that amp, while from what I've read 10 or 12 gauge wire should suffice. What the flux? Should I stick with the 8ga wire or can I do the 10-12ga? 25A fuse seem right? If I calculated things right (250W divided by .75 divided by 13.8 = 25A) I should not need an 8ga for this install.

Also, I want one or two on'off switches. One for the amp and maybe one for the stereo. Any suggestions on those?

I haven't installed an amp in a decade and am probably overthinking this, but opinions are welcome.

Thanks!
 

Last edited by terrapin88; 10-02-2019 at 07:06 PM.
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Old 10-04-2019, 08:20 PM
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206 views but nobody knows nothing, eh?

Sticking with the 8ga and 25A fuse. 8ga would be handy if I swap in a more powerful amp down the road. Had a hard time finding a 25A AGU fuse to go with the inline fuse holder I wanted to use. Going to use a 25A ATC fuse instead. Have to order an ATC inline fuse holder that won't arrive till next week some time because all the inline ATC holders have 12 or 10 gauge lead wires. Going from 8 to 10 back to 8 seems ghetto to me, so I'm going to solder and heat shrinked spade terminals to two 3" sections of 8ga that I'll zip tie together and clip the fuse into that for now.

Still thinking about an on/off toggle. Trying to visualize how the power to the receiver and amp is controlled, but this is not my wheelhouse and reading up on it puts me to sleep. Can anyone throw some easy to understand knowledge my way to help me understand what I need to do to make the receiver and amp fully power down when I shut off the bike? I own a 98 Road King.

Thanks!

 

Last edited by terrapin88; 10-04-2019 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 10-04-2019, 11:18 PM
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Well now it's at least 207 views. Some people like myself don't offer advice because we are new to this and don't want to give out bad information. I believe others don't answers questions because they believe that the information is already on here a hundred times and with little effort it can be easily found.

But as far as your question all I can tell you is that it was recommended to me to use an 8awg kit for my Stinger 700 and a 10AWG kit for my NVX VADM4 amps. So that is what I used. I ran separate power and ground wires for each amp.
 
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Old 10-04-2019, 11:24 PM
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The remote turn on wires guarantee ur audio equipment is powered down as long as u have them hooked to the correct source aka an accessory wire like a cig lighter that powers up w acc sw on and powers down w acc aw off.

T
 
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Old 10-04-2019, 11:26 PM
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Old 10-05-2019, 01:18 PM
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8track, thanks for the reply. I would prefer the people that don't know what they are doing not answer, so no issue there. As far as the info being out there and having been asked before, I spent enough time combing through dead end threads and decided it was time to ask. And well, this is a forum where people discuss things so... Thanks for the Amazon link. Not sure how that kit would help me even if it was still available. I see it came with a mini-ANL inline fuse holder, but the research I've done on the available fuse types tells me that the mini-ANL fuse are not available in 25A. IIRC, 40A is as low as they go. Don't really want to put a 40A fuse where a 25A belongs.

Tailwind, thanks for the reply. So that makes sense. I know there is a memory wire from the receiver to the amp. So that takes care of that. But the receiver itself...I would need to connect the power wire to an ACC wire on my bike for it to power on and off when the ignition switches on and off, right? I wonder if a direct tap off the battery with a switch in the wire allowing me to feed the system power or not with the switch wouldn't be a better setup? I think about a not so new battery starting the bike on a cold day. Maybe I don't want any power going to the receiver and amp when I am trying to turn over my bike.
 
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