So I'm about 200 miles into my new '19 Street Glide. To my surprise and disappointment, the sound system in the bike doesn't sound as good as my '07 Ultra.....on which I had removed the tour pack. So, only had the faring speakers in that bike....... but I could at least here 'em at 70 MPH.....and that was with some V&H Fishtail open pipes! This '19 SG still has the stock mufflers.....and yet at about 70 MPH I just can't hear the music on this bike! I'm thinking some upgrade in the speakers might be helpful..... so I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions? I'm told the stock speakers are 2 ohm in DC resistance......but I don't have any 'power' spec for them. Also told that they're a 6.5" round, with 4-hole mounting. Just doing some quick checking, seems there's a LOT of speakers available that are in the 6.5" size range, most in the 4 ohm load variety....but that shouldn't be a huge issue. There's also the possibility of adding an amp....or even going with 'separates' on the speaker side, with a mid-bass and a tweeter. But, before I do anything, I'm looking for suggestions.....or 'warnings' if there's something I should NOT do! Many thanks, Tom D.

 

If u bail out of the Boom world, which is highly recommended, plan on getting an amp and speakers. Really no way around it.
What ur budget and ultimately how many speakers are u going to possibly grow into so you can plan for this as u develop a long term plan.

T

 

Even if you stay in the boom world, plan on getting a amp and speakers. TW is spot on, best to figure out what your future plans will be, then figure a budget. Then come on back with that info, lots of great advice here.

 

OK, I think my plan is to replace the speakers. I guess the question is: Is that enough? By that, I'm simply wondering if the replacement of the speakers will result in ANY appreciable difference, or if that's just a waste of time and money? Also, as part of that question and assuming that it IS a good plan to replace the speakers, which brands or models are generally recommended?

As to bailing out of the 'boom' world...... I think at this point I have no intention of replacing the factory radio/nav head that's in the bike. Although I'm really not happy with the fact that this high-dollar unit did NOT come with a CD player..... until it should actually fail. So, the plan is simply "...... change the speakers, and 'maybe' add a small amp while I'm at it!".

As to the speaker change, I guess I'm just wondering if anyone has anything to say about the 'load' factor of going with 4 ohm vs 2 ohm speakers? I believe that increasing the load (going with 4 ohm units) will result in some reduced power from the radio. So I suppose this becomes the reason for the needed auxiliary amp? Given the auto sound world is full of both speakers and amps, it there a reason to stick with stuff sold specifically the HD world, or does this stuff 'cross-over' without any real issues?

Just to finish up, I'm looking at a pair of Kicker CS Series 6.5" 2-way speakers as replacements for the stock units. I suppose when I'm in there I could add an amp as well. So....if those are a bad choice, that's what I'd like to know, as well as 'why'..... Also, what IS a good choice.....and what amp?

Thanks, Tom D.

 

People still use CD players?? lol There are much better options than kickers in the bike audio world. Just provide a budget and listen to these guys and they'll give you GREAT advice.

 

If you go from a 2 ohm speaker to a 4-ohm speaker without changing anything else your volume will be cut approximately in half and defeat the whole purpose of your upgrade.

 

8track,

I'm not sure that's necessarily true. . When swapping from 2 ohm to 4 ohm speakers, you will affect the rated output power level at any given volume setting on the radio. But, while you're doubling the load (speaker ohms) on the output device (the 'amp' portion of the radio head), this doesn't necessarily mean a reduction in 'volume', which is really just a function of air movement. The volume can actually remain the same. The real question is more one of accuracy with respect to the signals being applied to the speaker, and efficiency of the speaker itself. Accuracy is the ability of that speaker to reproduce the wave form WITHOUT distortion. Efficiency is how well the design of the speaker is able to take the voltage input from the amp and turn that into an accurate wave form and move air. The bottom line is that while 'volume' is necessary to get the sound from the speaker to your ear, it's being both accurate and efficient that is the difference between good sound and bad. A crappy 2 ohm speaker can be far worse than a good 4 ohm speaker that is both efficient and accurate!!

Your comment does get to the heart of the matter though! IS the limitation of the 'stock' system based on a limitation of the stock radio amp to produce undistorted power to an otherwise 'good' speaker, OR.....is the limitation of the stock system more a function of crappy speakers from the factory?

For what it's worth, I'm pretty heavily involved in 'home' audio. However, I'm very much 'old school' in that I build and repair old 'Vintage Tube Audio' systems.....and my skills and interests are strictily in the area of tube amplification. In the home stereo world, I'm what they call an 'Analog' guy! I listen to vinyl (records), and use a CD system for background music. I know NOTHING about solid state stuff, I can't fix a radio or TV, nor do I have any interest in learning. I've yet to figure out how the stick-drive works on the bike's sound system, or how to load music on to a stick drive from my computer. I'll learn. But, I guess my point is that I'm wondering if there is a potential here for some cross-over of some of the same basic issues to apply. For one thing, the systems I build for the home are all 'low power' in terms of watts. My amps run from a high of about 35 watts per channel, to a low of about 4. Yet, with my home speaker system, which has an efficiency level of about 104db, I can blow you out of my shop on 1 watt! So, just because the speakers go from being 2 ohms to 4, and the power may drop from what ever the factory rates it at to something about 50% less by 'formula'....this doesn't necessarily mean the system will have less volume or sound worse. I take people from 250 watt home audio systems with crappy speakers, and put them in a 12 WPC system that blows their minds! And, this is mostly because I go with very efficient speakers, and work with VERY low level distortion amplification. So, I'm just wondering if by changing JUST the speakers, can the system be improved any.........or, does one really need the addition of a supplemental amp in order to add more power as well?

Thanks, Tom D.

 

I'll give the short answer.... when you install the 4 ohm speakers, listen to it with the fairing off. You will be adding the amp.

I guess if you can find a really efficient speaker that will play well and loud enough on 15 watts, you could try it. But that same speaker won't be worth much with 150 watts when you put the amp in.

 

So assuming I go with some 4 ohm speakers like the Infinity, or other.......is it REALLY necessary to use an amp that has been specifically designed for HD use, or is virtually any 'automotive' type supplemental amp an OK choice?

Also, while I'm at it, does the stock HD head unit have RCA 'out's that are for use with an aftermarket amp, or do you just go with the speaker 'output' wires and use a high to low level converter?

TSD

 

Hardly anyone here uses a "motorcycle specific" amp. Most are from the car audio world. To run an amp you will need a BT355 Line Leveler from Biketronics that is designed to lower the EQ curve that's built into the Boom HU. This will also convert you to a low level input for an amp. Or in lieu of the BT355 you could use a DSP of your choice. All watts are not created equally....especially from old school tube amps. With that being said, you need at a minimum 100 watts per channel on a bike.