What factors go into speaker choice?
#1
What factors go into speaker choice?
I read about all the speakers that are going into your systems and wanted to know why you chose the speakers you chose.
What are some of the factors that go into your choice...........
Wattage, magnet size, the material they are made from, price............
Looking to be able to make a better educated decision on speakers. Based more on specs, rather than name brand and/or price.
Thanks Chad
What are some of the factors that go into your choice...........
Wattage, magnet size, the material they are made from, price............
Looking to be able to make a better educated decision on speakers. Based more on specs, rather than name brand and/or price.
Thanks Chad
#2
The decisions everyone uses may be a little different.
For some, it's all about budget. When i say that, I'm not necessarily talking about the 1 set of speakers. More about overall budget concerning amps, all speakers, and other equipment, parts in play.
For some it's about performance, volume or sound quality. Almost all speakers play a little different, even if they advertise similar specs. Some play better with more or less wattage than advertised. Some play better in various locations.
You are best suited to come up with an end game or eventual goal. Link those goals with a reasonable budget and then proceed. There are other reasons, but I don't currently have enough time to cover them right now. Others will surely chime in.
Good luck and happy hunting.
For some, it's all about budget. When i say that, I'm not necessarily talking about the 1 set of speakers. More about overall budget concerning amps, all speakers, and other equipment, parts in play.
For some it's about performance, volume or sound quality. Almost all speakers play a little different, even if they advertise similar specs. Some play better with more or less wattage than advertised. Some play better in various locations.
You are best suited to come up with an end game or eventual goal. Link those goals with a reasonable budget and then proceed. There are other reasons, but I don't currently have enough time to cover them right now. Others will surely chime in.
Good luck and happy hunting.
#3
For a very large percentage of folks that come to this site, the largest factors are overall quality compared to Boom or entry level product, then reliability but ultimately driven by budget. Tons of other factors come into play like genres, ease of installation, riding style etc.
Define the budget to shape the sandbox u can play in then proceed from there.
T
Define the budget to shape the sandbox u can play in then proceed from there.
T
#4
For me a lot of it was oriented to the type of music I like. Bad Wolves, Five Finger Death Punch, In This Moment, etc.
Music like that is very heavy, lots of guitar and drums, it will tax a coaxial speaker designed to play from 80-20k to death and you'll get a lot of noise but it will be muddy, notes will run together, whatever you want to call it. Talking to T, Marco, Sbates, and others, I ended up creating something more specialized for my tastes. I have speakers that play from 70-4000, 95-5000, 120-10000, and 4000-ear bleed. It allows me to have enough bandpassed channels that will let me rip hard to duplicate music at stupid volumes and still maintain clarity. Other types of music like hip hop, electronic, country, etc sound phenomenal to me on it but my preference is metal and so it took a lot of trial and error and asking a ton of freakin questions to learn what would duplicate it well.
Not really a huge amount of money if I'd just bought this stuff the first time but removing and replacing multiple setups before I listened and learned did get kinda expensive.
Music like that is very heavy, lots of guitar and drums, it will tax a coaxial speaker designed to play from 80-20k to death and you'll get a lot of noise but it will be muddy, notes will run together, whatever you want to call it. Talking to T, Marco, Sbates, and others, I ended up creating something more specialized for my tastes. I have speakers that play from 70-4000, 95-5000, 120-10000, and 4000-ear bleed. It allows me to have enough bandpassed channels that will let me rip hard to duplicate music at stupid volumes and still maintain clarity. Other types of music like hip hop, electronic, country, etc sound phenomenal to me on it but my preference is metal and so it took a lot of trial and error and asking a ton of freakin questions to learn what would duplicate it well.
Not really a huge amount of money if I'd just bought this stuff the first time but removing and replacing multiple setups before I listened and learned did get kinda expensive.
#5
For me a lot of it was oriented to the type of music I like. Bad Wolves, Five Finger Death Punch, In This Moment, etc.
Music like that is very heavy, lots of guitar and drums, it will tax a coaxial speaker designed to play from 80-20k to death and you'll get a lot of noise but it will be muddy, notes will run together, whatever you want to call it. Talking to T, Marco, Sbates, and others, I ended up creating something more specialized for my tastes. I have speakers that play from 70-4000, 95-5000, 120-10000, and 4000-ear bleed. It allows me to have enough bandpassed channels that will let me rip hard to duplicate music at stupid volumes and still maintain clarity. Other types of music like hip hop, electronic, country, etc sound phenomenal to me on it but my preference is metal and so it took a lot of trial and error and asking a ton of freakin questions to learn what would duplicate it well.
Not really a huge amount of money if I'd just bought this stuff the first time but removing and replacing multiple setups before I listened and learned did get kinda expensive.
Music like that is very heavy, lots of guitar and drums, it will tax a coaxial speaker designed to play from 80-20k to death and you'll get a lot of noise but it will be muddy, notes will run together, whatever you want to call it. Talking to T, Marco, Sbates, and others, I ended up creating something more specialized for my tastes. I have speakers that play from 70-4000, 95-5000, 120-10000, and 4000-ear bleed. It allows me to have enough bandpassed channels that will let me rip hard to duplicate music at stupid volumes and still maintain clarity. Other types of music like hip hop, electronic, country, etc sound phenomenal to me on it but my preference is metal and so it took a lot of trial and error and asking a ton of freakin questions to learn what would duplicate it well.
Not really a huge amount of money if I'd just bought this stuff the first time but removing and replacing multiple setups before I listened and learned did get kinda expensive.
#6
I’m running 2 ground zero 165spl’s in the dash crosses from 85-4500 hz. 2 prv mr500 neo’s In the lowers at 120-10,000 hz. 2 mmats 601.8’s in tourpak pods at 100-5000 hz, and 2 dtx26t’ tweeters running 4500 and up. Before the prv’s I was using 4 mmats instead of 2. I had great midbass and good highs, vocals were very strong and clear but the guitars would get a bit muddy. I’m still tweaking now plus I’ve got 2 more tweeters and 2 ground zero 200spl’s going in the lids when I get the bike torn down again next week BUT the addition of the prv’s brought in the missing midrange. Metal is so freakin hard to duplicate clearly at high volumes man, I’m trying but I don’t think I’ll ever get completely there without enlisting some professional help. That kills the fun of “do it yourself” though as bikes are a good portion of my transportation but completely my hobby so I have more enjoyment trying and failing until I get it right than I would just paying someone to do it for me.
A decent amount of power is helpful because you can drive em loudly without pushing anything to the limit. Lastly, the addition of a DSP was the best upgrade ever for me. For a lot of music the difference wasn’t really super noticeable but with metal, it’s night and day. Definitely helps clean up everything.
For power im doing an 800.4 4 ohm bridged on the PRV’s and MMATS for a 4 ohm load, an 800.4 2 ohm bridged to all the GZ speakers for a 2 ohm load, and a 250.2 running the tweeter in parallel for a 4 ohm load each side.
A decent amount of power is helpful because you can drive em loudly without pushing anything to the limit. Lastly, the addition of a DSP was the best upgrade ever for me. For a lot of music the difference wasn’t really super noticeable but with metal, it’s night and day. Definitely helps clean up everything.
For power im doing an 800.4 4 ohm bridged on the PRV’s and MMATS for a 4 ohm load, an 800.4 2 ohm bridged to all the GZ speakers for a 2 ohm load, and a 250.2 running the tweeter in parallel for a 4 ohm load each side.
Last edited by slodsm; 02-17-2019 at 01:50 PM.
#7
I’m running 2 ground zero 165spl’s in the dash crosses from 85-4500 hz. 2 prv mr500 neo’s In the lowers at 120-10,000 hz. 2 mmats 601.8’s in tourpak pods at 100-5000 hz, and 2 dtx26t’ tweeters running 4500 and up. Before the prv’s I was using 4 mmats instead of 2. I had great midbass and good highs, vocals were very strong and clear but the guitars would get a bit muddy. I’m still tweaking now plus I’ve got 2 more tweeters and 2 ground zero 200spl’s going in the lids when I get the bike torn down again next week BUT the addition of the prv’s brought in the missing midrange. Metal is so freakin hard to duplicate clearly at high volumes man, I’m trying but I don’t think I’ll ever get completely there without enlisting some professional help. That kills the fun of “do it yourself” though as bikes are a good portion of my transportation but completely my hobby so I have more enjoyment trying and failing until I get it right than I would just paying someone to do it for me.
A decent amount of power is helpful because you can drive em loudly without pushing anything to the limit. Lastly, the addition of a DSP was the best upgrade ever for me. For a lot of music the difference wasn’t really super noticeable but with metal, it’s night and day. Definitely helps clean up everything.
For power im doing an 800.4 4 ohm bridged on the PRV’s and MMATS for a 4 ohm load, an 800.4 2 ohm bridged to all the GZ speakers for a 2 ohm load, and a 250.2 running the tweeter in parallel for a 4 ohm load each side.
A decent amount of power is helpful because you can drive em loudly without pushing anything to the limit. Lastly, the addition of a DSP was the best upgrade ever for me. For a lot of music the difference wasn’t really super noticeable but with metal, it’s night and day. Definitely helps clean up everything.
For power im doing an 800.4 4 ohm bridged on the PRV’s and MMATS for a 4 ohm load, an 800.4 2 ohm bridged to all the GZ speakers for a 2 ohm load, and a 250.2 running the tweeter in parallel for a 4 ohm load each side.
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#8
It really is the music choice man. Stuff like classic rock and country was loud and clear when I was running 3 coax’s and a b52/pn4. I’d have been happy with that setup and left it alone. Unfortunately like you, my music tastes are hard as hell on equipment and takes some more love to make it sound how you want.
Last edited by slodsm; 02-17-2019 at 05:49 PM.
#9
It really is the music choice man. Stuff like classic rock and country was loud and clear when I was running 3 coax’s and a b52/pn4. I’d have been happy with that setup and left it alone. Unfortunately like you, my music tastes are hard as hell on equipment and takes some more love to make it sound how you want.
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