A DSP is without question an awesome devise to not only correct the HUs retardation but it will also allow you to obtain the maximum potential of your speakers.
The reality is that a massive percentage of the folks that come here wanting to puff up their audio are just not going to invest the time, energy, attention to detail and education that is required for the effective use and bedevils that a DSP can offer. If u just want to plug shix in an roll, the BT355 is without question the best solution for the majority of folks tinkering with their audio and focused on the average to above average tier after market audio on the Rushmore's.
T
☝️ That 👍👍👍
For me, I feel that maximum limit I would spend on sled audio without DSP is $1500. Anything more than that I feel like I just throwing money out the window because I just get nothing back in return spending more than $1500 with no DSP, been there done that. However, Tailwind is spot on about the tuning aspect of DSP, I am fortunate enough to have a very cool fully equipped audio tuner working very close to my home, otherwise I will be stuck in regards of fine tuning. I do however, still think that if budget allows DSP is worth it even for average hobbyist without proper equipment or skill just for the de equalizing function alone and de equalizing procedure is very very easy to be done by average hobbyist.
If the OP bought a DSP would he even need the BT Line leveler or would the DSP fix the issue plus give him the tuning capability. Just trying to clarify for them so they don’t buy both if not needed.
This is all very helpful information. The BT355 is ordered.
I took the outer faring off and I am going to do my best to describe the wiring...obviously, it's the way it is now with the Rockford line out converter. First off, the power and ground are both ran all the way back to the battery.
It looks like he has intercepted a signal from the left and right in the fairing (two red wires on each side) and their soldered into wires going into the LOC. The RCA's coming out of the LOC are split and plugged into the amp. One of the splits goes on the left (top and bottom) and one goes on the right (same):
Hopefully you can see the settings on the amp. None of that makes sense to me.
The other side of the amp is where the power, remote, and speaker wires are connected. He has the ST25's bridged. So are the 165.1's:
This all may be pointless at this point since that LOC isn't helping me. But if there are obvious errors please let me know. Everything works (Although on occasion the amp doesn't seem to fire up when I start the bike. Turning the ignition off and on usually corrects it. Weird.)
Thanks again!
Last edited by Paradoxicated; 09-29-2018 at 04:49 PM.
Can you take a picture of the speaker side of the amp with the speaker wires plugged in? Sounds like he bridged the mids and ran the horns in parallel which doesn’t allow you to adjust the horns by themselves.
A picture would be a big help tho.
Can you take a picture of the speaker side of the amp with the speaker wires plugged in? Sounds like he bridged the mids and ran the horns in parallel which doesn’t allow you to adjust the horns by themselves.
A picture would be a big help tho.
Of the eight speaker wires I'll call the most left wire #1 and the furthest right #8.
Wires 1 & 2 go to the right side 165. Wires 3 & 4 go to the left side 165. Wires 5 & 6 go to right side ST25. Wires 7 & 8 go to left side ST 25.
you are not bridged. he has your horns wired on channels 1 and 2. turn on the siystem and gt it up to normal listening volume, go to the input side of the amp, the dial named LEVEL is your gain control, turn it to the left( counterclockwise) and this will reduce your gain level and it should also turn down the volume of the tweeters/horns. play with this setting, not exceding the original point, untill it suits you, presto you are done! when you look at the speaker output side, it should be channels 1-2 that are wired to the horns if i am interpreting your last post correctly.
on the input side, for channels 3-4, swith the slider to HP, not full. turn the bass eq all the way down,(again counterclockwise), the dial that has HP/LP above it, turn it all the way down also, then turn it up (clockwise) about a quater turn. start and run the bike, make adjustments while the bike is running if you have the stock HU, play with the HP filter setting till it is loud enough and has bass response without distorion(sounds like ***). you want your head unit volume set at about 3/4, not all the way up. you ae adjusting the High Pass filter to send enough bass to sound ok, but not kill the speakers. once you get this done, you can try to feed in a little bass from your bass eq ***, but go very slow and be very carefull listening for distortion, bad sound quality or anything else that just doesn't sound right. then report.
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This is all very helpful information. The BT355 is ordered.
I took the outer faring off and I am going to do my best to describe the wiring...obviously, it's the way it is now with the Rockford line out converter. First off, the power and ground are both ran all the way back to the battery.
It looks like he has intercepted a signal from the left and right in the fairing (two red wires on each side) and their soldered into wires going into the LOC. The RCA's coming out of the LOC are split and plugged into the amp. One of the splits goes on the left (top and bottom) and one goes on the right (same):
Hopefully you can see the settings on the amp. None of that makes sense to me.
The other side of the amp is where the power, remote, and speaker wires are connected. He has the ST25's bridged. So are the 165.1's:
This all may be pointless at this point since that LOC isn't helping me. But if there are obvious errors please let me know. Everything works (Although on occasion the amp doesn't seem to fire up when I start the bike. Turning the ignition off and on usually corrects it. Weird.)
Thanks again!
Para
If you are unsure of what does what post your location in Illinois and there maybe some one close if not around the corner from your location the maybe will to give you a hand with your audio system issues.
I appreciate all of the help. I played around with it and it seems like the level adjustment is the only thing that really does anything. And the difference is good. Before on volume level 3 it was starting to hurt. I now have a fuller range of volume adjustment and it generally sounds better.
As for adjusting the other dials, there's no perceivable difference with the horns when turning the HP/LP dial. (With switch still set to HP) Same for the PA speakers when I switched them to HP. Adjusting the bass frequency for the PA speakers changes things a bit....but the bass never sounds clean at any level. It just seems like there is very little tuning to do with the way it's set up. There's just loud or not so loud...I am really hoping that the factory EQ that others are stating is the culprit. So I put the PA's back to "Full" and adjusted the level till it sounded good.
I will get the BT355, install it, and see if that doesn't correct some of my issues...
09-29-2018, 03:27 AM
