Advice on stereo system
#1
Advice on stereo system
I just recently purchased my first Harley and let me say this, I love this bike! Its a 2010 Electra Glide Ultra Classic and I want to upgrade the sound experience. Now if I have found a million threads about this same topic, I have found a million different ideas and configurations for the "best" system. I have a good buddy on here (EricsnNC) who made some changes to his and took his recommendations along with bits a pieces from other threads. I just want to make sure the items I have will work and I am not missing any components needed for the install. I also plan on replacing the rear speakers but will do that at another time unless pricing allows it to be done now. Looking for suggestions, recommendations, and any help/guidance I can get. Thanks in advance!
So far this is what I am planning:
1. Kenwood KMRD772BT for the head unit
2. WDX6 Moto 6.5 in speakers for the fairing speakers
3. Polk Audio MM1 6.5 in speakers for the lower fairings
4. iDataLink Maestro ADS-SW-HD1 to retain handlebar control
5. Soundstream PN4.1000D 1000W 4-channel Picasso nano amp
6. XMT-MOTO vivid black 6.5 in speaker pods for lower fairing
7. Metra 82-9601 6-1/2 to 6-3/4 speaker adapter
8. PAC SNI-1 ground loop noise isolator
9. Sounstream WK-40X amp wiring kit
10. Batwing fairing amp bracket
So far this is what I am planning:
1. Kenwood KMRD772BT for the head unit
2. WDX6 Moto 6.5 in speakers for the fairing speakers
3. Polk Audio MM1 6.5 in speakers for the lower fairings
4. iDataLink Maestro ADS-SW-HD1 to retain handlebar control
5. Soundstream PN4.1000D 1000W 4-channel Picasso nano amp
6. XMT-MOTO vivid black 6.5 in speaker pods for lower fairing
7. Metra 82-9601 6-1/2 to 6-3/4 speaker adapter
8. PAC SNI-1 ground loop noise isolator
9. Sounstream WK-40X amp wiring kit
10. Batwing fairing amp bracket
Last edited by Justinguh3; 09-12-2018 at 08:38 AM.
#2
Does this still have a tour-pak?
You may not need that ground loop isolator as long as your power and ground for the amp is ran to the battery.
Be aware you may loose FM reception with that amp.
Other than that I think it is a good, budget start. I am not to familiar with that handle bar controller, but long as it works.
You may not need that ground loop isolator as long as your power and ground for the amp is ran to the battery.
Be aware you may loose FM reception with that amp.
Other than that I think it is a good, budget start. I am not to familiar with that handle bar controller, but long as it works.
#4
Does this still have a tour-pak?
You may not need that ground loop isolator as long as your power and ground for the amp is ran to the battery.
Be aware you may loose FM reception with that amp.
Other than that I think it is a good, budget start. I am not to familiar with that handle bar controller, but long as it works.
You may not need that ground loop isolator as long as your power and ground for the amp is ran to the battery.
Be aware you may loose FM reception with that amp.
Other than that I think it is a good, budget start. I am not to familiar with that handle bar controller, but long as it works.
Yes it has the tour pack but it has the quick disconnect so I will mainly have it off.
Id hate to lose FM reception so what is another good amp to use that wont cause that?
#5
You will lose all or some FM reception with most Class D amps out there. Sometimes you get lucky, even the ones that have shielding can cause some loss of reception and cost for those amps is much more than the SS PN4.1000D.
A few things.
1. if you use the moto's in the fairing, I would use pro audio speakers in the lowers like MMats or PRV's
2. Not sure how good that handcontrol is, I've had success with the Scocshe one
3. You don't need a ground loop islotator
4. I would use Stinger 4000 series RCA cables
5. The PN4.1000 will need to sit about 1/2 above the radio to clear the fairing brackets. You will also need to move some wires around to get it to fit.
6. I didn't see a head unit plate/adaptor listed. Also get a waterproof face plate too!
A few things.
1. if you use the moto's in the fairing, I would use pro audio speakers in the lowers like MMats or PRV's
2. Not sure how good that handcontrol is, I've had success with the Scocshe one
3. You don't need a ground loop islotator
4. I would use Stinger 4000 series RCA cables
5. The PN4.1000 will need to sit about 1/2 above the radio to clear the fairing brackets. You will also need to move some wires around to get it to fit.
6. I didn't see a head unit plate/adaptor listed. Also get a waterproof face plate too!
#6
You will lose all or some FM reception with most Class D amps out there. Sometimes you get lucky, even the ones that have shielding can cause some loss of reception and cost for those amps is much more than the SS PN4.1000D.
A few things.
1. if you use the moto's in the fairing, I would use pro audio speakers in the lowers like MMats or PRV's
2. Not sure how good that handcontrol is, I've had success with the Scocshe one
3. You don't need a ground loop islotator
4. I would use Stinger 4000 series RCA cables
5. The PN4.1000 will need to sit about 1/2 above the radio to clear the fairing brackets. You will also need to move some wires around to get it to fit.
6. I didn't see a head unit plate/adaptor listed. Also get a waterproof face plate too!
A few things.
1. if you use the moto's in the fairing, I would use pro audio speakers in the lowers like MMats or PRV's
2. Not sure how good that handcontrol is, I've had success with the Scocshe one
3. You don't need a ground loop islotator
4. I would use Stinger 4000 series RCA cables
5. The PN4.1000 will need to sit about 1/2 above the radio to clear the fairing brackets. You will also need to move some wires around to get it to fit.
6. I didn't see a head unit plate/adaptor listed. Also get a waterproof face plate too!
ok, I think ill be ok with losing some or all FM reception, I guess thats what iheart radio and spotify are for anyway ha ha ha
As far as some of the things you suggested do you have part numbers or links to get them. I'm not very audio savvy so when you say things like MMats or PRV's my eyes glaze over and I start to drool a little.
You would use the stinger cables instead of the soundstream amp wiring kit I had?
#7
That amp kit comes with 4 ga wire which is a bit overkill for just one SS amp. The ground wire is too short and the RCA's are way too long. Get the Stinger cables Haze mentioned, some 8Ga. wire, 6ft should be plenty for the positive and ground all the way to the battery. Also get a fuse holder for a 30 amp fuse ( I think the SS calls for 30 amp).
That handlebar controller works fine but will need to be programmed online with a computer, which you can set what buttons on the handlebars control what.
The DB WDX's are bright and would be better in the lowers, and personally I like the DB Euphoria's much better, but are components and will require mounting a tweeter and crossover somewhere, and work best in the fairing, with something loud and clear in the lowers.
That handlebar controller works fine but will need to be programmed online with a computer, which you can set what buttons on the handlebars control what.
The DB WDX's are bright and would be better in the lowers, and personally I like the DB Euphoria's much better, but are components and will require mounting a tweeter and crossover somewhere, and work best in the fairing, with something loud and clear in the lowers.
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#8
A couple of people mentioned the Motos being bright. I haven’t bought them yet and not necessarily sold on them. I want a good sound and good volume and I’m open to other suggestions that anyone has. Thank you guys so much for your responses so far, I have def used some of them to change my projected setup.
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12-12-2014 02:55 PM