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Possible Lid Upgrade?

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  #11  
Old 09-09-2018, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Tailwind
I would not intentionally feed the CX62 less than 125-150 Watts.

Sell the ARC and get an amp that is designed to puff up the watts when u run 2 ohm.

T
And what amps are those exactly?
 
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Old 09-09-2018, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by No U Glider
I bought the RF lid kit thinking I would upgrade the speakers, but they have been a pleasant surprise, give them a listen before swapping out. I've read that ARC Moto692 and DD VO's require some dremmeling of the baskets. Some of the Hertz will drop right in... perhaps Traveling Gypsye will chime in. He changes up speakers based on moon phases.

Just curious what about the old tried and true Pioneer 6X9's?
 
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by badazzpred
My color is Black Cherry Pearl.....................I'm located in Southeastern Waukesha County
I'm in northeastern waukesha county. There may be some color matched lids out there. Gotta shop around
 
  #14  
Old 09-10-2018, 07:49 PM
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And what amps are those exactly?
A tried and true amp for bumping up the wattage going from 4 to 2 ohms is the SoundStream PN4.1000d. The only drawbacks are it is big and can interfere with FM reception. It puts out 140 watts per channel in 4 ohms and about 240 watts per channel in 2 ohms. I had four AD CX62s on the rear channel of mine and they sounded pretty good. That was the lowers and rear pods. The problem I ran into though was I could not fade between the lowers and rear pods because all four speakers were on the same channel. If I ran them loud enough to hear the rear pods the lowers were too loud.

That was why I finally went with a second amp in the clutch side bag. That left the SS to push just the WDX6 Motos in the fairing on the front channel and the ADs in the lower fairings. In my opinion 140 watts to the Motos in the fairing is overkill. I have the gain set conservatively and I still have to run the fader 2/3 towards the rear to keep them from blowing my head off. I'm not saying 140 watts is overkill for the ADs in the lowers, but again I had to install a level control on that channel to bring down the volume a tad so they would blend properly with the fairing and rears.

To be honest I think your front setup is great as is. That ARC amp is a proven player in the game that is kind to FM reception and has all the power you need up front. If I had your setup I would just get a couple of RCA Y adapters and split off the rear channel to go to a second amp to power the lids. If they didn't get loud enough to blend with the front you could install a DSP or a couple of cheap level controls to adjust the RCA inputs to the front and rear channels of the ARC amp and leave the patch cable going to the rear amp full strength.

The thing is you won't know what you like until you try it. If your paint is not hard to match you could get a set of Hogtunes lids and and amp and mock it up to see how you like it. I was VERY impressed with the Hogtunes lids I got. If you read the directions they are very well thought out and I can vouch for them being water tight if installed correctly. They even come with extra long screws for the latches if your paint is laid on thick. I guess you could get some leakage depending on which 6x9s you choose but the RF TMS69s I used didn't leak a drop even in torrential downpours. That way if you don't like the setup you can just put your stock lids back on and try something else.

Now that I've laid all that BS out there if you do not have a tour pak you could talk to some of the hard core folks about 8.8 lids to really pump things up. That is a lot more money though if I remember correctly and it does mess with the classic Harley lines so to speak.
 
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  #15  
Old 09-10-2018, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by badazzpred
Hey guys I've been thinking about adding Lid speakers finally and possibly going with the RF TMS69BL9813 Lid Kit? However before I pull the trigger I have some questions and or concerns?
Current set-up: Sony MEX-M70BT, Arc 600.4 Moto Amp, Mmatts 601.4 in my lower fairings, AD Designs CX62 in my fairing No horns or Tweets!
1st ? Am I stuck only having to use the RF 6X9's that are included in the RF TMS69BL9813 Lid Kit or can I use other brand 6X9's as well with possible modifications?
2nd ? Will my Arc 600.4 Moto Amp be enough power to accommodate all 6 speakers? Do I have to bridge and or is it even possible?

Thanks for any input on this
The rf rear speaker kit is a solid play and those speakers that come with the kit will surprise you. If you are not satisfied with those speakers others will fit in those lids. Hertz hcx,mpx 6x9's, polks mm692's, sony xs-gs 690's wdx 6x9's, will all fit without any mods. The dd vo's, arc 692's and pioneers ts6900 all need the ears on the speakers modified to fit in the lids and yes I have tried them all. The nice thing about that kit is all wiring comes with it and no need for any paint work. As others have suggested, I would try running it all with that arc amp as the tms69 speakers that come with that kit don't require a lot of power. With your HU, you will have the ability to fade front to rear to get the balance you want while riding. On that kit not only do the rear speakers tilt forward but are angled inward towards the rider. Not the same on the 14+ kit as they are just tilted forward.

Hope this helps.
 
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  #16  
Old 09-11-2018, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by USAproud
I'm in northeastern waukesha county. There may be some color matched lids out there. Gotta shop around

Yeah probably pretty hard to find though in Black Cherry Pearl?
 
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by travelingypsye
The rf rear speaker kit is a solid play and those speakers that come with the kit will surprise you. If you are not satisfied with those speakers others will fit in those lids. Hertz hcx,mpx 6x9's, polks mm692's, sony xs-gs 690's wdx 6x9's, will all fit without any mods. The dd vo's, arc 692's and pioneers ts6900 all need the ears on the speakers modified to fit in the lids and yes I have tried them all. The nice thing about that kit is all wiring comes with it and no need for any paint work. As others have suggested, I would try running it all with that arc amp as the tms69 speakers that come with that kit don't require a lot of power. With your HU, you will have the ability to fade front to rear to get the balance you want while riding. On that kit not only do the rear speakers tilt forward but are angled inward towards the rider. Not the same on the 14+ kit as they are just tilted forward.

Hope this helps.

So in other words If I do decide to go with the kit maybe just stick with the RF tms69 speakers and bridge/parallel the AD's and Mmatts on the front channel 1&2, and run the rear channel 3&4 to the RF tms69 speakers correct?
 
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Old 09-11-2018, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by badazzpred
So in other words If I do decide to go with the kit maybe just stick with the RF tms69 speakers and bridge/parallel the AD's and Mmatts on the front channel 1&2, and run the rear channel 3&4 to the RF tms69 speakers correct?
Not bridged but parallel on the front and the 6x9's on the rear (3/4). Yes sir I would try that before getting another amp.
 
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  #19  
Old 09-11-2018, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by travelingypsye
Not bridged but parallel on the front and the 6x9's on the rear (3/4). Yes sir I would try that before getting another amp.

So can you please explain in more detail of "Parallel" please? So by running the 4 front speaks off (1/2) does that mean there still a 4ohm load or now become a 2ohm load? Also will all 4 speaks in Parallel still get 150 watts per speaker or does that now change?
And not to sound stupid as I've never ran Parallel before and I'm sure its pretty simple, but how do I wire all 4 speaks in Parallel exactly?

Thanks
 
  #20  
Old 09-11-2018, 11:33 AM
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4 speakers hooked to 2 channels. The output is still 4 ohm but the speakers will get 2 ohm apiece. wire the left + and - to channel 1 for both speakers on the left and the same on the right on channel 2. Easy peasy. Adjust your gains on the amp to just under distortion from the low end and your good to go.
 
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