Newbie help with system
#11
#12
So do you want to work with what you have or start over? I think you could help yourself by getting a Biketronics Line Leveler for starters. Probably the cheapest quick fix.
http://www.biketronics.com/bt355-hd-...r-2014-and-up/
#13
Great News! I was thinking it was a dealer installed system judging from your first post.
So do you want to work with what you have or start over? I think you could help yourself by getting a Biketronics Line Leveler for starters. Probably the cheapest quick fix.
http://www.biketronics.com/bt355-hd-...r-2014-and-up/
So do you want to work with what you have or start over? I think you could help yourself by getting a Biketronics Line Leveler for starters. Probably the cheapest quick fix.
http://www.biketronics.com/bt355-hd-...r-2014-and-up/
Last edited by Big trucker; 08-16-2016 at 01:33 PM.
#14
Big Trucker a BT355 Line level shifter is typically used to create an output from the factory head unit to an aftermarket amp. It also does a fantastic job of squashing the DSP settings built into the factory head unit. We use the BT 355 line level shifter on all of our installs that retain the factory head unit on 14 up bikes. However from what I understand of your issue I don't believe it will help you. The BT 355 coverts the Molex plug out of the Factory Head unit into RCA outputs to an aftermarket amp. I believe you have a BOOM audio amp which the Line Level shifter will not work with(to the best of my knowledge).
#15
#16
You could have a couple issues. 1. Not all songs are recorded at the same volume level Especially from iTunes. So some will play louder than other which is a problem with the BOOM head unit because of the DSP settings. Instead of focusing on clarity it focusing on power output to speakers. So when you turn up the volume at highway speeds it just send more power to the speaker instead of properly processing the signal. This causing distortion when you have a mid base or base heavy song. 2. The BOOM audio setup isn't really meant to overcome the harsh environment of the motorcycle at highway speed. It is meant to sound really good sitting still in the show room or cruising around town.
That being said I will tell you that for the money of BOOM audio there is a lot better stuff out there. What you decide to do is ultimately your decision but 99.9% of our customers choose to scrap boom and go with a good Hertz, DD Audio, or ARC setup instead.
The number one thing to remember is CLARITY. Harley attempted to get around that by just pumping power to a speaker and hoping it would be good enough.....sadly anyone that's been around audio will tell you that is a rookie mistake and fails every time.
That being said I will tell you that for the money of BOOM audio there is a lot better stuff out there. What you decide to do is ultimately your decision but 99.9% of our customers choose to scrap boom and go with a good Hertz, DD Audio, or ARC setup instead.
The number one thing to remember is CLARITY. Harley attempted to get around that by just pumping power to a speaker and hoping it would be good enough.....sadly anyone that's been around audio will tell you that is a rookie mistake and fails every time.
#18
Just switching out the amp will most likely cause you more problems that it will fix. The Harley system is a 2 ohm system. Most aftermarket amps will run at 2 ohm will produce WAY to much power for the little Harley speakers. I apologize if it sounds like I am just repeatedly giving you bad news but the honest truth of the matter is that BOOM only works right with BOOM and doesn't really like to play with any other components. That's why several guys asked you if you wanted to start over or not because that is the route most people in you situation go.
#19
#20