Good to hear. I may actually switch back to a B52 to replace to Rockford for the Moto 602's, still have some tuning to try first. Right now the Rockford has the highs over powering the lows and mid punch that they had with the B2 I had. I changed plans a little and found a B54 to bridge to the Moto 692's. Can't wait to get everything put together. This stupid work thing keeps getting in the way lol.

 

You should be quite happy with that setup!

 

Im really impressed with my B52 so far. I'll turn the gains up on my bridged PN4.1000D to the Moto 692's in my lids in a few days

 

Gent's not trying to discourage a conversation regarding brands, but the majority of the threads on this forum are product related with not many good discussions on why they work a certain way and how to maximize what we're using in a technical aspect. In my own personal testing I can tell you this matters, the why or how it works is what I'm hoping some of the engineer focused crowd can help us out with.

With regard to brand conversation, the same shop just won Daytona's Best Stereo competition for the 3rd straight year in a row. THREE years running, that's crazy. What's crazier is they don't shy from telling folks they run Hertz SPL's. Now the how they wire them, are they using a second battery, is the secret in the enclosures, etc. is the part of the puzzle we're left to figure out. What's even more insane is they won it this year running a Rushmore Infotainment HU!!! Yet, we circulate here that, that HU limits your system. Probably, and my guess is they are running a DSP to allow for fine tuning......but there's a "how" and "why" out there that I think would be interesting and beneficial for us to learn/know when thinking about multi amp set-ups.

 

Well all you have to do is find a dealer who can flash the Infotainment so that you loose the bass curve right? Easier said than done though lol

I'd bet money they are using a DSP and a crazy amount of power. Those SV 165.1 (6.5's) have a peak power handling of 400 watts, the SV 200.1's have a peak power handling of 500 watts), that's a SERIOUS amount of power!

Let's also not forget those horns (which you'd loose on the highway I think) and how loud they can be.

Id really like to see what their setup is

 

You don't lose the sound of horns on the highway, on the contrary!

Yes, their bike that won two years ago used an iPad for a HU and DSP. But the "crazy amount of power" is exactly what I want to get smart on. There is a limit to how much power our electrical system will allow. So power in relates to power out. It's not like the next guy can show up and just add another amp and win. There's a limit and these dudes (and others) have found how to maximize that.

 

So...unlike Nascar, you don't get to see what's under the hood? Lol.
That's the point of this thread. What's going on under there??

 

My bad. I wish I knew more about the internal electronics to add more to this. I'll just have my ear to go by.

 

Never open your saddlebags in public!!!

In other news, the local shop I once posted about that that the loudest Roadking I've ever heard -- won the 1000w and below category (with a different bike), them boys know their stuff too.

 

I am sure a ho stator is being used with an auxiliary battery. Most amps are efficient enough to run no where near the fused rating. Even with limited charging system 1000 watts ( don't know if rms or peak) is doable. You may run the amp hot if it is struggling to get what is is trying to draw. I am not as familiar with system limits in motorcycle compared to automotive. Most cars have about 25-30% capacity available. Capacitors help during peak bursts to eliminate dimming.
For example I could run 2 400w Kenwood ps300t's, xtant 404m, 4 10's and f&r components fine in my Nissan with a 15amp upgraded alt. Changed to 2 15's and a US Amps 400x and my car would barely idle and hit protection on amp in about 20min. Point is the Kenwood were more efficient with available power from charging system. That's where a multiple battery with isolator comes to play. Isolate the auxiliary battery from starting battery so the starting battery always received the needed charge maintain over the auxiliary.