Audio Project step-by-step (living thread)
#11
03-03-2016, 03:27 PM
Update 1 (HU Flash): Before going to the dealership, I thought I'd call biketronics and confirm that I'm getting the right flash. They sort of laughed and said that technically, it's not called a flash and informed me that it's really a change to the settings. Having a 2015 SGS with the BT line levelers, he said that I'd need the stock Ultra settings, using the following settings:
Rear pods on
No amp
Rear output turned-on
Fader turned-on
The dealership did the job in about 15 minutes at a cost of $36.00
Running total: $1,679.91
Rear pods on
No amp
Rear output turned-on
Fader turned-on
The dealership did the job in about 15 minutes at a cost of $36.00
Running total: $1,679.91
#12
03-03-2016, 04:50 PM
Thanx T and Carp
#13
03-03-2016, 09:08 PM
I love this forum, I was all set to pull the trigger on HD color matched lids, the grills, and all the hardware stuff plus V-twin adapters for $720 bucks. Then of course I would have to cut and grind out the HD baskets and install the adapters. That ain't gonna happen now that I know about Factory Match for $779 they are ready to rock and the grills are color matched. http://thefactorymatch.com/2014-2016...-speaker-lids/
Thanx T and Carp
Thanx T and Carp
Welcome! I'm paying it forward! As for the lids, you should know that they come with the wiring harnesses, black zip ties and 3/4 inch rubber grommets as well. They have weather stripping for a tighter seal as well. Also, if you're in the market for 6x9 speakers, Factory Match will throw in the Hogtunes 6x9's for $50. After I got the Hogtunes speaker lid instruction book, I read the speaker specs (see below) and they seem pretty solid. Most of the forum posts on these speakers speak pretty highly on these speakers. Had I known the specs before hand, I would have purchased them for $50 and handed them to my brother for his SG. Hope this helps!
Factory Match Hogtunes 6x9 speaker specs:
Power handling: 200 watts
Frequency response: 30hz to 25 kHz
Sensitivity: 96 db 1 watt/1 meter
Impedance: 2.0 ohms
Seem pretty solid to me...oh yeah, and I read they're water resistant
#14
03-03-2016, 09:23 PM
Update 1 (HU Flash): Before going to the dealership, I thought I'd call biketronics and confirm that I'm getting the right flash. They sort of laughed and said that technically, it's not called a flash and informed me that it's really a change to the settings. Having a 2015 SGS with the BT line levelers, he said that I'd need the stock Ultra settings, using the following settings:
Rear pods on
No amp
Rear output turned-on
Fader turned-on
The dealership did the job in about 15 minutes at a cost of $36.00
Running total: $1,679.91
Rear pods on
No amp
Rear output turned-on
Fader turned-on
The dealership did the job in about 15 minutes at a cost of $36.00
Running total: $1,679.91
Ouch! $36 to do a simple settings adjustment is crazy IMO. This should be built into the radio settings so we can do it ourselves.
#15
03-06-2016, 09:55 PM
Update 2: I've started the project today and I've got to tell you that I'm thinking I would have rather paid someone to do this for me if I would've known what I know now. That opinion may change, but that's where I'm at for the moment. Anyhow, here's an update:
Summary of progress today: I removed the fairing, stock amp tray, gas tank and speaker pods. I installed the J&M amp mount, ran the power and ground for the amp, connected the line levelers and am about 75% finished putting the Hogtunes speaker lid together. I also installed the Infiniti Kappa 6.5's in the speaker pods.
Thoughts on above items:
Gas tank removal - This was pretty easy to do. Remove two frame mount bolts near the front and two at the rear. You'll have to disconnect a few connectors under the seat to remove the tank and to disconnect the battery's positive terminal.
Fairing removal - A lot easier than one would think. There are four bolts on the inner fairing that need to be removed. You also have to remove three bolts that hold the windshield to the fairing. Make sure you remove the center windshield bolt last to avoid having the fairing potentially fall...unlikely based on the way it sits in position. Once the fairing is removed, you'll need to disconnect two connectors from the headlight (high and low beam...they're marked). When the fairing is off, remove the fairing vent...it'll make it easier to work and mount the amp try and amp.
Speaker pods - This was really pretty easy overall...with the exception of the underside bolts...there are two underside bolts for each side. One of the two are nestled toward the front tucked into a corner, which doesn't allowed a socket wrench to fit against the metal bracket they're against. I used a short wrench for this job, which made the right side (when facing from front) pretty easy. The left (when facing from the front of the bike) was a little more challenging as there was a wire harness mounted again the metal mounts, thus limited access. I cut the zip tie (plug type) that was holding it in-place and that helped quite a bit.
6.5 speakers - My Infiniti 6.5 Kappas fit quite easily. At the recommendation of a rep from cycle sounds, I bought some speaker grills from them to accommodate the in and out motion of the speakers. I've read, and the rep said, that the stock grills eventually begin to cut into the outer part of the speakers.
Amp Mount - The Harley amp mount was easy to remove once the vent was removed. The J&M amp mount comes in two parts....the base plate and a smaller mounting plate. Without having any instructions, I was a little confused on how to mount the smaller part. The larger mount was very easy to mount to the head unit. I'm still not sure I've mounted the smaller piece the right way.
Speaker lids - I disassembled one of the factory speaker lids and began setting up the Hogtunes speaker lids. Sounds easy enough, right? Everything seemed to be going well, that is until I went to mount my Infinity Kappa 6x9. The speaker didn't fit the lid as expected. In fact, the cutout area seemed to push too far in on the edges of the speakers (the part that is foamy that allows the speaker to travel in and out). Because of this, I have to cut a wood cutout of some sort as a spacer so I can allow fitment. Additionally, the speaker well (when viewing the closed lid) has a cutout space that's about two inches long and about 1/2 inch wide....basically, it's a space that will allow water to pass through to the contents of the bag. I didn't expect this and was a little surprised.
Line Levelers - These were pretty easy to connect. You will however, need to have two RCA wires (male on both ends) to run from the LL's to the amp. I used three footers. I plugged each of the fairing pod connectors into one LL and used an unused plug (assuming it's for rear speakers) into the other LL for the rear speakers. Hope this is right.
My garage looks like an explosion took place....I have parts everywhere! Really, my only frustration at this point comes from the issue I'm having with my rear speakers not mounting right with my speaker lids. I'll post pictures when I get some more time.
Summary of progress today: I removed the fairing, stock amp tray, gas tank and speaker pods. I installed the J&M amp mount, ran the power and ground for the amp, connected the line levelers and am about 75% finished putting the Hogtunes speaker lid together. I also installed the Infiniti Kappa 6.5's in the speaker pods.
Thoughts on above items:
Gas tank removal - This was pretty easy to do. Remove two frame mount bolts near the front and two at the rear. You'll have to disconnect a few connectors under the seat to remove the tank and to disconnect the battery's positive terminal.
Fairing removal - A lot easier than one would think. There are four bolts on the inner fairing that need to be removed. You also have to remove three bolts that hold the windshield to the fairing. Make sure you remove the center windshield bolt last to avoid having the fairing potentially fall...unlikely based on the way it sits in position. Once the fairing is removed, you'll need to disconnect two connectors from the headlight (high and low beam...they're marked). When the fairing is off, remove the fairing vent...it'll make it easier to work and mount the amp try and amp.
Speaker pods - This was really pretty easy overall...with the exception of the underside bolts...there are two underside bolts for each side. One of the two are nestled toward the front tucked into a corner, which doesn't allowed a socket wrench to fit against the metal bracket they're against. I used a short wrench for this job, which made the right side (when facing from front) pretty easy. The left (when facing from the front of the bike) was a little more challenging as there was a wire harness mounted again the metal mounts, thus limited access. I cut the zip tie (plug type) that was holding it in-place and that helped quite a bit.
6.5 speakers - My Infiniti 6.5 Kappas fit quite easily. At the recommendation of a rep from cycle sounds, I bought some speaker grills from them to accommodate the in and out motion of the speakers. I've read, and the rep said, that the stock grills eventually begin to cut into the outer part of the speakers.
Amp Mount - The Harley amp mount was easy to remove once the vent was removed. The J&M amp mount comes in two parts....the base plate and a smaller mounting plate. Without having any instructions, I was a little confused on how to mount the smaller part. The larger mount was very easy to mount to the head unit. I'm still not sure I've mounted the smaller piece the right way.
Speaker lids - I disassembled one of the factory speaker lids and began setting up the Hogtunes speaker lids. Sounds easy enough, right? Everything seemed to be going well, that is until I went to mount my Infinity Kappa 6x9. The speaker didn't fit the lid as expected. In fact, the cutout area seemed to push too far in on the edges of the speakers (the part that is foamy that allows the speaker to travel in and out). Because of this, I have to cut a wood cutout of some sort as a spacer so I can allow fitment. Additionally, the speaker well (when viewing the closed lid) has a cutout space that's about two inches long and about 1/2 inch wide....basically, it's a space that will allow water to pass through to the contents of the bag. I didn't expect this and was a little surprised.
Line Levelers - These were pretty easy to connect. You will however, need to have two RCA wires (male on both ends) to run from the LL's to the amp. I used three footers. I plugged each of the fairing pod connectors into one LL and used an unused plug (assuming it's for rear speakers) into the other LL for the rear speakers. Hope this is right.
My garage looks like an explosion took place....I have parts everywhere! Really, my only frustration at this point comes from the issue I'm having with my rear speakers not mounting right with my speaker lids. I'll post pictures when I get some more time.
#17
03-07-2016, 09:02 PM
Update 3:
Kappa 6x9's in Hogtunes lids: Today, I spent at least three hours trying to get the 6x9's into the Hogtunes lids. The lid speaker opening was too small for the surround part of the speaker (responsible for woofer movement), so I began working a wood spacer. I used 3/4" plywood and carefully measured the space and came up with a good template, or so I thought. With the screw positions on the lids being so close to the sides, I couldn't build a spacer...this was a huge disappointment.
I took the lids and speakers to the highest Yelp rated audio shop in my areas, and we have a lot of them, in hopes they may be able to help. The technician said it's nearly impossible. BOTTOMLINE: DO NOT BUY THE INFINITY 6X9'S FOR THE HOGTUNES LIDS...they don't fit!
I threw in the towel and called Factory Match and asked if they'd still honor the Hogtunes 6x9 deal for $50. Brad quickly agreed and said he'd ship them to me today by UPS Ground. With S&H, I'm in it for around $80. Brad also pointed out that the large gap that I'm pointed out in my earlier update is where the tweeter mounts. With such a large gap, I would only recommend Hogtunes 6x9 speakers with these lids otherwise water may leak into the bags...just my humble opinion!
Kappa 6x9's in Hogtunes lids: Today, I spent at least three hours trying to get the 6x9's into the Hogtunes lids. The lid speaker opening was too small for the surround part of the speaker (responsible for woofer movement), so I began working a wood spacer. I used 3/4" plywood and carefully measured the space and came up with a good template, or so I thought. With the screw positions on the lids being so close to the sides, I couldn't build a spacer...this was a huge disappointment.
I took the lids and speakers to the highest Yelp rated audio shop in my areas, and we have a lot of them, in hopes they may be able to help. The technician said it's nearly impossible. BOTTOMLINE: DO NOT BUY THE INFINITY 6X9'S FOR THE HOGTUNES LIDS...they don't fit!
I threw in the towel and called Factory Match and asked if they'd still honor the Hogtunes 6x9 deal for $50. Brad quickly agreed and said he'd ship them to me today by UPS Ground. With S&H, I'm in it for around $80. Brad also pointed out that the large gap that I'm pointed out in my earlier update is where the tweeter mounts. With such a large gap, I would only recommend Hogtunes 6x9 speakers with these lids otherwise water may leak into the bags...just my humble opinion!
#18
03-12-2016, 01:10 AM
Update 4: Mission accomplished
After working to 4 am last night and at least a few hours today, I'm pretty confident this job is done and done right. Here's some pointers for new folks like I was:
Overall opinion of the job: I know a lot of you enjoyed the job, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't do it again...I'd hire an expert who is familiar with the job nuances and can anticipate challenges and work-arounds. Although I'm happy that I've done the job and will always be grateful for the experience I earned, this job is a job for someone with experience and I wouldn't hesitate to have someone perform the work for me. With that said, there pride is workmanship and some bragging rights when you're gathering with friends.
Sound satisfaction: I'm absolutely amazed at how good the speakers sound and I'm confident I'll never have a need to increase the volume over half-way. The sound is crisp and clear, however I wish I had just a little more bass.
Equipment satisfaction:
SS PN4.1000D - easily powers my speakers and has about a third more on the gain dials...amazing! As for the fitment, the J&M amp tray sitting on the head unit lifts the amp about a 1/4 of an inch of the HU and actually tilts the amp slightly forward to fit with the fairing. The screw holes didn't line up, but the heavy duty Velcro saved the day and is strong enough to ensure the amp doesn't move.
Infiniti Kappa 6.5's: Amazing 150 watt speakers that put out plenty of sound. After installing and hearing the 6.5's alone, I began to question why I purchased rear speakers...seriously, they're that good! The fitment was perfect with the pods (more on pods later), however you will want to buy grills to accommodate the movement of the speakers. I bought mine from Cycle Sounds.
Hogtunes 6x9, 200 watt speakers - They sound really good and clear, but I think they fall a little short on bass...just my opinion. If you don't buy them with the Hogtunes lids, you will need to solder your wires which can be a little tricky. Just remember that the center leads are for the tweeters and the posts on the outermost sides are for the 6x9's...Naahhh, I didn't make that mistake!
Hogtunes Lids - The lids, although easy to connect to the bags, have some nuances you should know about. The provided weather stripping is too bulky and makes a major pain in the tail when it comes time to close the lids...still dealing with that! The cut-outs for the speakers are designed specifically for the Hogtunes speakers and tweeter bars. If you don't use Hogtunes speakers, you're going to have a huge gap (2" x 4") that sits inside the grills on the sidewalls...yes, your bag contents will get wet. However, the Hogtunes tweeter has a mounting piece that plugs that gap with a rubber seal you apply. When you drill your holes in your bags for the grommet, make sure you apply a lot of layers of masking tape to ensure you don't damage your paint. If you do around the edges of the holes, no worries because the grommet edge covers it.
BT Line Levelers - Really easy to install! Just make sure you buy RCA connectors (3 foot) with two male ends on each side. I didn't mess with the LL gains at all.
Wiring process - There is absolutely no space under the fairing form the bottom of the headlight - up. I used the wide open space next to the HU to place most of my wiring. Buy some zip ties of varying sizes.
Misc. - The dreaded bolt that holds each pod in-place is a pain. There are two of the three (each side) that hold the pods. One is very easy and the one is a complete pain and takes forever. I used a 7 mm wrench on mine with very limited space to move, so it took forever...and some knuckle skin. I had some trouble doing the break-away connectors for the bag removal...the Deutsch connectors got rave reviews, but I couldn't find instruction on how to build them, therefore I just went with fixed wires with the intent to figure it out later.
Special thanks to everyone who guided me through the process, especially Gannicus and Tailwind...class acts!
After working to 4 am last night and at least a few hours today, I'm pretty confident this job is done and done right. Here's some pointers for new folks like I was:
Overall opinion of the job: I know a lot of you enjoyed the job, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't do it again...I'd hire an expert who is familiar with the job nuances and can anticipate challenges and work-arounds. Although I'm happy that I've done the job and will always be grateful for the experience I earned, this job is a job for someone with experience and I wouldn't hesitate to have someone perform the work for me. With that said, there pride is workmanship and some bragging rights when you're gathering with friends.
Sound satisfaction: I'm absolutely amazed at how good the speakers sound and I'm confident I'll never have a need to increase the volume over half-way. The sound is crisp and clear, however I wish I had just a little more bass.
Equipment satisfaction:
SS PN4.1000D - easily powers my speakers and has about a third more on the gain dials...amazing! As for the fitment, the J&M amp tray sitting on the head unit lifts the amp about a 1/4 of an inch of the HU and actually tilts the amp slightly forward to fit with the fairing. The screw holes didn't line up, but the heavy duty Velcro saved the day and is strong enough to ensure the amp doesn't move.
Infiniti Kappa 6.5's: Amazing 150 watt speakers that put out plenty of sound. After installing and hearing the 6.5's alone, I began to question why I purchased rear speakers...seriously, they're that good! The fitment was perfect with the pods (more on pods later), however you will want to buy grills to accommodate the movement of the speakers. I bought mine from Cycle Sounds.
Hogtunes 6x9, 200 watt speakers - They sound really good and clear, but I think they fall a little short on bass...just my opinion. If you don't buy them with the Hogtunes lids, you will need to solder your wires which can be a little tricky. Just remember that the center leads are for the tweeters and the posts on the outermost sides are for the 6x9's...Naahhh, I didn't make that mistake!
Hogtunes Lids - The lids, although easy to connect to the bags, have some nuances you should know about. The provided weather stripping is too bulky and makes a major pain in the tail when it comes time to close the lids...still dealing with that! The cut-outs for the speakers are designed specifically for the Hogtunes speakers and tweeter bars. If you don't use Hogtunes speakers, you're going to have a huge gap (2" x 4") that sits inside the grills on the sidewalls...yes, your bag contents will get wet. However, the Hogtunes tweeter has a mounting piece that plugs that gap with a rubber seal you apply. When you drill your holes in your bags for the grommet, make sure you apply a lot of layers of masking tape to ensure you don't damage your paint. If you do around the edges of the holes, no worries because the grommet edge covers it.
BT Line Levelers - Really easy to install! Just make sure you buy RCA connectors (3 foot) with two male ends on each side. I didn't mess with the LL gains at all.
Wiring process - There is absolutely no space under the fairing form the bottom of the headlight - up. I used the wide open space next to the HU to place most of my wiring. Buy some zip ties of varying sizes.
Misc. - The dreaded bolt that holds each pod in-place is a pain. There are two of the three (each side) that hold the pods. One is very easy and the one is a complete pain and takes forever. I used a 7 mm wrench on mine with very limited space to move, so it took forever...and some knuckle skin. I had some trouble doing the break-away connectors for the bag removal...the Deutsch connectors got rave reviews, but I couldn't find instruction on how to build them, therefore I just went with fixed wires with the intent to figure it out later.
Special thanks to everyone who guided me through the process, especially Gannicus and Tailwind...class acts!
#19
03-12-2016, 06:52 AM
Originally Posted by carpusaf
Update 4: Mission accomplished
After working to 4 am last night and at least a few hours today, I'm pretty confident this job is done and done right. Here's some pointers for new folks like I was:
Overall opinion of the job: I know a lot of you enjoyed the job, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't do it again...I'd hire an expert who is familiar with the job nuances and can anticipate challenges and work-arounds. Although I'm happy that I've done the job and will always be grateful for the experience I earned, this job is a job for someone with experience and I wouldn't hesitate to have someone perform the work for me. With that said, there pride is workmanship and some bragging rights when you're gathering with friends.
Sound satisfaction: I'm absolutely amazed at how good the speakers sound and I'm confident I'll never have a need to increase the volume over half-way. The sound is crisp and clear, however I wish I had just a little more bass.
Equipment satisfaction:
SS PN4.1000D - easily powers my speakers and has about a third more on the gain dials...amazing! As for the fitment, the J&M amp tray sitting on the head unit lifts the amp about a 1/4 of an inch of the HU and actually tilts the amp slightly forward to fit with the fairing. The screw holes didn't line up, but the heavy duty Velcro saved the day and is strong enough to ensure the amp doesn't move.
Infiniti Kappa 6.5's: Amazing 150 watt speakers that put out plenty of sound. After installing and hearing the 6.5's alone, I began to question why I purchased rear speakers...seriously, they're that good! The fitment was perfect with the pods (more on pods later), however you will want to buy grills to accommodate the movement of the speakers. I bought mine from Cycle Sounds.
Hogtunes 6x9, 200 watt speakers - They sound really good and clear, but I think they fall a little short on bass...just my opinion. If you don't buy them with the Hogtunes lids, you will need to solder your wires which can be a little tricky. Just remember that the center leads are for the tweeters and the posts on the outermost sides are for the 6x9's...Naahhh, I didn't make that mistake!
Hogtunes Lids - The lids, although easy to connect to the bags, have some nuances you should know about. The provided weather stripping is too bulky and makes a major pain in the tail when it comes time to close the lids...still dealing with that! The cut-outs for the speakers are designed specifically for the Hogtunes speakers and tweeter bars. If you don't use Hogtunes speakers, you're going to have a huge gap (2" x 4") that sits inside the grills on the sidewalls...yes, your bag contents will get wet. However, the Hogtunes tweeter has a mounting piece that plugs that gap with a rubber seal you apply. When you drill your holes in your bags for the grommet, make sure you apply a lot of layers of masking tape to ensure you don't damage your paint. If you do around the edges of the holes, no worries because the grommet edge covers it.
BT Line Levelers - Really easy to install! Just make sure you buy RCA connectors (3 foot) with two male ends on each side. I didn't mess with the LL gains at all.
Wiring process - There is absolutely no space under the fairing form the bottom of the headlight - up. I used the wide open space next to the HU to place most of my wiring. Buy some zip ties of varying sizes.
Misc. - The dreaded bolt that holds each pod in-place is a pain. There are two of the three (each side) that hold the pods. One is very easy and the one is a complete pain and takes forever. I used a 7 mm wrench on mine with very limited space to move, so it took forever...and some knuckle skin. I had some trouble doing the break-away connectors for the bag removal...the Deutsch connectors got rave reviews, but I couldn't find instruction on how to build them, therefore I just went with fixed wires with the intent to figure it out later.
Special thanks to everyone who guided me through the process, especially Gannicus and Tailwind...class acts!
After working to 4 am last night and at least a few hours today, I'm pretty confident this job is done and done right. Here's some pointers for new folks like I was:
Overall opinion of the job: I know a lot of you enjoyed the job, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't do it again...I'd hire an expert who is familiar with the job nuances and can anticipate challenges and work-arounds. Although I'm happy that I've done the job and will always be grateful for the experience I earned, this job is a job for someone with experience and I wouldn't hesitate to have someone perform the work for me. With that said, there pride is workmanship and some bragging rights when you're gathering with friends.
Sound satisfaction: I'm absolutely amazed at how good the speakers sound and I'm confident I'll never have a need to increase the volume over half-way. The sound is crisp and clear, however I wish I had just a little more bass.
Equipment satisfaction:
SS PN4.1000D - easily powers my speakers and has about a third more on the gain dials...amazing! As for the fitment, the J&M amp tray sitting on the head unit lifts the amp about a 1/4 of an inch of the HU and actually tilts the amp slightly forward to fit with the fairing. The screw holes didn't line up, but the heavy duty Velcro saved the day and is strong enough to ensure the amp doesn't move.
Infiniti Kappa 6.5's: Amazing 150 watt speakers that put out plenty of sound. After installing and hearing the 6.5's alone, I began to question why I purchased rear speakers...seriously, they're that good! The fitment was perfect with the pods (more on pods later), however you will want to buy grills to accommodate the movement of the speakers. I bought mine from Cycle Sounds.
Hogtunes 6x9, 200 watt speakers - They sound really good and clear, but I think they fall a little short on bass...just my opinion. If you don't buy them with the Hogtunes lids, you will need to solder your wires which can be a little tricky. Just remember that the center leads are for the tweeters and the posts on the outermost sides are for the 6x9's...Naahhh, I didn't make that mistake!
Hogtunes Lids - The lids, although easy to connect to the bags, have some nuances you should know about. The provided weather stripping is too bulky and makes a major pain in the tail when it comes time to close the lids...still dealing with that! The cut-outs for the speakers are designed specifically for the Hogtunes speakers and tweeter bars. If you don't use Hogtunes speakers, you're going to have a huge gap (2" x 4") that sits inside the grills on the sidewalls...yes, your bag contents will get wet. However, the Hogtunes tweeter has a mounting piece that plugs that gap with a rubber seal you apply. When you drill your holes in your bags for the grommet, make sure you apply a lot of layers of masking tape to ensure you don't damage your paint. If you do around the edges of the holes, no worries because the grommet edge covers it.
BT Line Levelers - Really easy to install! Just make sure you buy RCA connectors (3 foot) with two male ends on each side. I didn't mess with the LL gains at all.
Wiring process - There is absolutely no space under the fairing form the bottom of the headlight - up. I used the wide open space next to the HU to place most of my wiring. Buy some zip ties of varying sizes.
Misc. - The dreaded bolt that holds each pod in-place is a pain. There are two of the three (each side) that hold the pods. One is very easy and the one is a complete pain and takes forever. I used a 7 mm wrench on mine with very limited space to move, so it took forever...and some knuckle skin. I had some trouble doing the break-away connectors for the bag removal...the Deutsch connectors got rave reviews, but I couldn't find instruction on how to build them, therefore I just went with fixed wires with the intent to figure it out later.
Special thanks to everyone who guided me through the process, especially Gannicus and Tailwind...class acts!
Enjoy your system for this riding season and keep your ears open for what speaker tweaks u can make to really dial things in for your ears. Maybe it just some tuning, maybe it's a speaker set that can show up at Xmas or a birthday. The HT speakers are really bright with not much bass. I rode them for a while and started the chase. If u do chase, call me and I can talk u thru the tweeter bar removal mod that will open the door to all other 6x9s while keeping ur bags sealed. The Kappas are good 6x9s for bass but I think if u take the time to save $$$$, u will be much happier with the ARC Moto 692. LL will get u a very good price on those so reach out to him to see how much $$$$ u may need to save should u go that route. As for the Kappas fitting the lids, they have a very large speaker ring thus I shaved just about 1/32 off of one side of that plastic with a grinder so it did not rub against the latch side of the lid. They fit good but do also have a big magnet that just barely cleared the bags when opening and closing. Ran those pretty hard for a while and a good speaker for the $$$$. Other 6x9 might need very very small grinding tweaks as well but it won't be much at all.
Don't worry about the lid weather stripping. By design it is supposed to be a little husky at first. Just make sure that it is properly seated in the track and adjust were needed with a dull standard screw driver. It will fit perfect in a couple of weeks.
If u need some quick disconnects for your bags let me know as I might have a couple of them laying around. U can get them pre assembled really cheap on Amazon, Crutchfield, Tronix, etc.
Anyways, awesome work!!!! Now get out there in your sled and enjoy the fruits of your labor!!!
Never hesitate to reach out if there is anything I can do to assist.
T.
Last edited by Tailwind; 03-12-2016 at 07:09 AM.