That's what I understood from your first post and wanted to make sure I was on the right track. The next question I have is what are your ultimate goals and how much are you ready to invest now?

 

Here's the full report from the dropbox link at the bottom of that page.

 

The report says the input voltage was close to 14v. Where was that measured from? Just trying to get the entire picture.

 

Send AAWAV a PM and I'm sure he would be glad to answer any questions you have. He hasn't been on the forums as much as he use to be.

 

Pretty sure it was input voltage at the amp.

 

I would like a system that I can play AC/DC on and hear relatively clearly at 75 mph and when parked next to a thumping Honda Civic. Don't need a lot of base just clear sound. Would be willing to spend more money $300-$500 for noticeably better sound but don't want to spend more money for minor gains.
Thanks.

 

I AM HERE!!!!!

Work has not allowed me to be on that much lately and in the future (50% in Europe for work).

to answer Q, yes ~14V DC at power input at amp (this is "normal" when running the bike, hence when dialing in gains you MUST run the bike.

Amps will show more Watts with higher input Voltage (at Power input).

RZ4.2000D = SS PN4.520D
RZ4.3000D = SS PN4.1000D

so you know, just ignore the RZ specs... use SS and you will be good.

if you go with 4ohm speakers IMHO the 4.520 will not cut it.
get the RZ4.3000 / PN4.1000 (sonic electronics to name one vendor has them for around 150; same price as on amazon and they will honor warranty, Amazon Vendors usually not, just so you know).
If you stick with the Kappa's - they will work

bro got that setup (fairing only) after I ripped out the Polks with PBR300x2 (not using the rear channel for now)

 

Nice work on the report!!! That's awesome you took the time to do that and provided so much detail back.

 

If you are willing to spend $300-$500 I would upgrade the amp to the T400X4AD to push the Kappas you already have. They retail at $499.00 I'll be honest and state up front that I am partial to this amp and use it or the T400X2AD in almost every setup now. Here is why I think it will be key to your set up...

1. you don't have to have a professional ear or equipment to tune your system. Tuning is the MOST important key to getting good sound out of an amp and speakers. It has built in Clip in and Clip out indicators on it that allows anyone to tune like a pro. Just put your EQ at flat and follow the instructions that come with it. RFG even provides a CD with the tracks you need for tuning.

2. It delivers clean signal. Dirty signal creates distortion. Most people don't realize this, but you will blow speakers by under powering them before you do over powering them b/c under powering creates distortion.

3. The amp is extremely efficient. The AD class amplifier requires less current draw to produce it's power, meaning it doesn't have to work as hard as other D class amps. The numbers from the report are a little lower than what I've seen, but that's not to say that 2 different amps of the same make and model couldn't be off from each other. I think a killer job was done on the report by the way!! A hot amp means it's working too hard and will eventually fail.....leaving you to buy another one.

If you ever were to upgrade this set up later on, I'd keep this amp and start by adding a receiver with higher V preouts. The test reports were done with one that puts out 4V where your stock unit is going to put out half of that. I'd be interested to know if the the actual V from the unit was measured prior to the test? That's a variable that can make a difference.

 

Both of those rockford amps are very nice amps. Only issue is they don't pass the "Bang for the Buck" test. The $150 soundstream 1000D will out perform the $400 Rockford on a bike.