2014 Limited rear speaker upgrade
#3
#4
Correct. Otherwise your options are the Alpine SPR 60, the Kicker KSC674's, the pioneer TS-A1686R, the Polk MM651's, the DD CSX 6.5's or the Hertz DSX 170.3 6.5's. All these speakers will drop right in your rear pods with 4 screws. My favorite in that location are the Polks. But they all sound very good in that location.
#5
Correct. Otherwise your options are the Alpine SPR 60, the Kicker KSC674's, the pioneer TS-A1686R, the Polk MM651's, the DD CSX 6.5's or the Hertz DSX 170.3 6.5's. All these speakers will drop right in your rear pods with 4 screws. My favorite in that location are the Polks. But they all sound very good in that location.
#7
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lockport Illinois
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#8
Here's a good post by Seesaw
You guys are all being led around by your noses by the stereo marketing people with regards to impedance. Your speakers aren't really 2 ohms, 4 ohms, or 8 ohms at all. They might qualify to be called 2 ohms because at some NARROW point within the whole audio bandwidth of the speaker they might represent a 2 ohm load. Same goes for other impedances. For example, I have Hertz HCX-165 coaxial speakers, they are considered a higher end speaker and rated at 4 ohms. But are they really? Well luckily Hertz publishes the impedance curves for their products. http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-a...energy-hcx165/ Just click on the 'frequency response' tab when you open the link.
We can see from the lower black curve that the speaker only reflects an impedance of 4 ohms between 150 to 500 Hz, and again between 12 to 16 kHz. Every other audio frequency is not being fed into a 4 ohm load, and is actually quite to the contrary. The speaker's impedance is roughly 9 ohms at 3.5 kHz and well over 28 ohms a little above 50 Hz. Most of the useable music audio is going to be between 700Hz to 10kHz, this is where the impedance rises and falls to anything but 4 ohms, as shown in the graph. Lots of Bass between 150 - 500Hz but not much music or vocal content there. Same with 12-16kHz, lots of very high trebles but not much music content.
Think of speaker load like tires against the road surface. The smaller or larger the diameter of a tire being driven against the road will reflect the maximum power it can transfer into that load. A smaller tire will spin faster but will run out of efficiency at higher road speeds and unduly load your engine. The larger tire will unduly load your engine as it try's to turn it from a standstill or a very low speed. You simply want the correct ratio tire for your overall engines health. Not to big and not to small. Same goes for matching speakers. It's not quite the perfect analogy but enough to give you the picture.
We can see from the lower black curve that the speaker only reflects an impedance of 4 ohms between 150 to 500 Hz, and again between 12 to 16 kHz. Every other audio frequency is not being fed into a 4 ohm load, and is actually quite to the contrary. The speaker's impedance is roughly 9 ohms at 3.5 kHz and well over 28 ohms a little above 50 Hz. Most of the useable music audio is going to be between 700Hz to 10kHz, this is where the impedance rises and falls to anything but 4 ohms, as shown in the graph. Lots of Bass between 150 - 500Hz but not much music or vocal content there. Same with 12-16kHz, lots of very high trebles but not much music content.
Think of speaker load like tires against the road surface. The smaller or larger the diameter of a tire being driven against the road will reflect the maximum power it can transfer into that load. A smaller tire will spin faster but will run out of efficiency at higher road speeds and unduly load your engine. The larger tire will unduly load your engine as it try's to turn it from a standstill or a very low speed. You simply want the correct ratio tire for your overall engines health. Not to big and not to small. Same goes for matching speakers. It's not quite the perfect analogy but enough to give you the picture.