guys a question about the said amp that im going to start to install in the near future.ive just started to pull my 14 sg to bits and after getting the fairing apart my question is why do i need that amp tray from jm.
if i take the existing tray away i should be able to fit it no problems .
so your thoughts on this please as the aussie dollar is shyte atm

thanks
sicpuppy

 

If you take the stock tray out it takes away about 7 mounting points inside the fairing. There's 2 in back connected under the gauges, 2 on each side connected to the speaker pods or brackets if you have them, which all connects to the top of the HU, and another I believe connected to the back of the glove box area. I'd guess that you'll get a bunch of vibration without that. The amp will probably fit without it though. If you know someone good with sheet metal you could take the stock tray out and have an aluminum one made so you can keep the mounting points and things inside nice and tight. Just my thoughts.

 

thanks mate , and yes i,m a metalworker so thats ok
ill take a closer look tomorrow
but i thought i had to take the stock tray out in order to put the jm one in

 

Yes the Jm one replaces the stock one if you get it to fit without having the Jm tray take lots of pictures I'm sure people would be interested to see what you come up with

 

Just played with the JM mounting tray on a 14 SGS and the HD tray does need to come out but I am guessing that the strategy from the JM perspective is to provide for an additional mini tray on top of the primary tray that the amp sits on thus to provide for cooling. So I'm guessing that if you leave the original tray it might be a good idea to build a little sheet metal table allowing as little as 1/4 in separation between the infotainment / HU and amp so they can breathe.

Just a total wild **** guess but that seemed to be the concept I could come up with while installing a JM amp.

Hope this helps.

T.

 

Sic,
As you dive into this I would also recommend getting some of those damn hinged gear wrenches, specifically a 7/16 gear wrench for those six bolts (3 on each side of the HU) that tie the white speaker pods to brackets just beneath the tray structure. Offset wrenches way also work but the ratchet part is efficient as hell.
Did my third speaker swap and this tool made it pretty damn easy for the 4 back and upper bolts and I just used a 7/16 socket w//o and extension for the lower ones.

Hope this helps!!



T.

 

cheers mate for the advice
i dont suppose you could measure your tray for me

 

I should have my fairing off early next week to mess with my amp and can get some measurements then. Just PM me if you press on and don't need them.

T

 

tailwind , if you can do some measurements that would be great

 

The J&M tray bottom is shaped flat which makes the surface wider. This allows the amp will sit lower and flat. The mini tray on top is a good idea but necessary for cooling IMO. Using the stock tray with the PN4.520D I had to use 1/2" thick blocks under the amp so it would fit flat. Otherwise the mounting tabs on the amp would hit the sides of the stock tray. With the amp pushed all the way back against the gauges there was barely enough room for the fairing to go back on without hitting the amp.
Here's a pic of the stock tray with blocks and it shows where the amp mounting tabs hit the sides of the tray.