Tomato Tomato Setting Gain With Dimm
#1
Tomato Tomato Setting Gain With Dimm
I meant Tomato Tomahto
So I see there are two schools of thought on the forum for figuring out what voltage to set your Gain to using a DIMM.....in the case of an amp putting out 125 watts per channel (125x2)....some say just use the output of one channel for your calculation...125 Watts, and some say use both channels....250 Watts
After doing an online search, I find write up's for either method, it's pretty evenly divided. But I am going to go with using the output of one channel because my DIMM is only connected to one channel (one speaker output) so it's seems to make sense to do it that way...
Jim
So I see there are two schools of thought on the forum for figuring out what voltage to set your Gain to using a DIMM.....in the case of an amp putting out 125 watts per channel (125x2)....some say just use the output of one channel for your calculation...125 Watts, and some say use both channels....250 Watts
After doing an online search, I find write up's for either method, it's pretty evenly divided. But I am going to go with using the output of one channel because my DIMM is only connected to one channel (one speaker output) so it's seems to make sense to do it that way...
Jim
#2
Nutz and I had several conversations around this.
AFTER i did the initial amp test WITH O scope and power resistor banks and he repeated the same type of test although with way better equipment he confirmed (at least to me LOL) I was right.
SINGLE channel (so Front left or Front Right or Rear Left or Rear Right) RMS power value needs to be used.
when you bridge 2 channels you use 2x channel RMS. That's why (my guess) half the world does take 2 x as they dial in a sub and bridging the channels.
AFTER i did the initial amp test WITH O scope and power resistor banks and he repeated the same type of test although with way better equipment he confirmed (at least to me LOL) I was right.
SINGLE channel (so Front left or Front Right or Rear Left or Rear Right) RMS power value needs to be used.
when you bridge 2 channels you use 2x channel RMS. That's why (my guess) half the world does take 2 x as they dial in a sub and bridging the channels.
#3
after 20+ years in mobile audio i prefer to use my ear. i start with a 1000hz tone (recorded at 0db) to set the mids, a 100hz tone to set the sub and then dial in the tweets to match the mids and lows as they typically require much less power. you can get any frequency test tone you want here:
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm
connect everything as it should be for power however only have the speakers you are tuning with connected (usually done by disconnecting the rca since it's the easiest connection to undo). start with the mids. turn your amp gains all the way down. play the 1000hz tone and slowly turn up your headunit volume until you hear the sound change (it will begin to sound distorted, typically around 75% but it varies from brand to brand and also is dependent on the quality of the unit, even in the same brand). back your headunit down a notch or two. you have now found the level at which your headunit distorts.
repeat the process with your amp gain now for the mids.
if using subs (or 6x9 in the lids) repeat the process for them.
if you are running separate tweets then slowly adjust the gain on the amp so they are a nice level when blended with the mids. (most bikes don't do this far with systems so you can probably skip it).
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm
connect everything as it should be for power however only have the speakers you are tuning with connected (usually done by disconnecting the rca since it's the easiest connection to undo). start with the mids. turn your amp gains all the way down. play the 1000hz tone and slowly turn up your headunit volume until you hear the sound change (it will begin to sound distorted, typically around 75% but it varies from brand to brand and also is dependent on the quality of the unit, even in the same brand). back your headunit down a notch or two. you have now found the level at which your headunit distorts.
repeat the process with your amp gain now for the mids.
if using subs (or 6x9 in the lids) repeat the process for them.
if you are running separate tweets then slowly adjust the gain on the amp so they are a nice level when blended with the mids. (most bikes don't do this far with systems so you can probably skip it).
#4
after 20+ years in mobile audio i prefer to use my ear. i start with a 1000hz tone (recorded at 0db) to set the mids, a 100hz tone to set the sub and then dial in the tweets to match the mids and lows as they typically require much less power. you can get any frequency test tone you want here:
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm
connect everything as it should be for power however only have the speakers you are tuning with connected (usually done by disconnecting the rca since it's the easiest connection to undo). start with the mids. turn your amp gains all the way down. play the 1000hz tone and slowly turn up your headunit volume until you hear the sound change (it will begin to sound distorted, typically around 75% but it varies from brand to brand and also is dependent on the quality of the unit, even in the same brand). back your headunit down a notch or two. you have now found the level at which your headunit distorts.
repeat the process with your amp gain now for the mids.
if using subs (or 6x9 in the lids) repeat the process for them.
if you are running separate tweets then slowly adjust the gain on the amp so they are a nice level when blended with the mids. (most bikes don't do this far with systems so you can probably skip it).
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm
connect everything as it should be for power however only have the speakers you are tuning with connected (usually done by disconnecting the rca since it's the easiest connection to undo). start with the mids. turn your amp gains all the way down. play the 1000hz tone and slowly turn up your headunit volume until you hear the sound change (it will begin to sound distorted, typically around 75% but it varies from brand to brand and also is dependent on the quality of the unit, even in the same brand). back your headunit down a notch or two. you have now found the level at which your headunit distorts.
repeat the process with your amp gain now for the mids.
if using subs (or 6x9 in the lids) repeat the process for them.
if you are running separate tweets then slowly adjust the gain on the amp so they are a nice level when blended with the mids. (most bikes don't do this far with systems so you can probably skip it).
#5
there is a risk of anything with anything, however in this case you are fine
so long as you don't pretend the gain/hu volume ***** are drag race vehicles there is nothing to worry about. i've used this method on $99 speakers and $2700 component sets for years and never blown a speaker.
this will probably make you cringe but i use sine wavs all the time for breaking in speakers. i set them up in the basement and let them run continuously for a week or so for the break-in period.
#6
there is a risk of anything with anything, however in this case you are fine
so long as you don't pretend the gain/hu volume ***** are drag race vehicles there is nothing to worry about. i've used this method on $99 speakers and $2700 component sets for years and never blown a speaker.
this will probably make you cringe but i use sine wavs all the time for breaking in speakers. i set them up in the basement and let them run continuously for a week or so for the break-in period.
so long as you don't pretend the gain/hu volume ***** are drag race vehicles there is nothing to worry about. i've used this method on $99 speakers and $2700 component sets for years and never blown a speaker.
this will probably make you cringe but i use sine wavs all the time for breaking in speakers. i set them up in the basement and let them run continuously for a week or so for the break-in period.
I break speakers in by simply playing radio for a long time. I would think that would be better as the speaker gets "all" freqs thrown at him...
#7
it's not so much breaking in like say a new car or bike with break-in oil, it's really just to have all the parts move to loosen them up (ok, they are sort of similar but my point is the wav will do just find to move the cone and associated parts). i also use white noise and pink noise.
so long as you have a good wav file and keep the power in the reasonable range you really don't have anything to worry about. it's kind of like a gun - use it responsibly and the odds of shooting yourself are far less than just grabbing it and waiving it around like a madman
so long as you have a good wav file and keep the power in the reasonable range you really don't have anything to worry about. it's kind of like a gun - use it responsibly and the odds of shooting yourself are far less than just grabbing it and waiving it around like a madman
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#9
Well originally in another post I was complaining that my system sounded like crap after ditching the HK head unit and installing a Kenwood (keeping the same speakers and amp) This was when I had to crank it at highway speed. But it wasn't distorted, kind of hard to explain.
I reset my gain using a DIMM but only using one channel in the calculation instead of two this time. My gain is set lower this time yet it sounds WAY better at speed/volume. In this case I guess less is more
I reset my gain using a DIMM but only using one channel in the calculation instead of two this time. My gain is set lower this time yet it sounds WAY better at speed/volume. In this case I guess less is more
#10
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