I think need some help here. Got all wires ran/routed. Soldered all connections except at the battery. Everything is connected (including the fuse) but the unit isn't coming on. I have power to the amp, but the power light isn't coming on at all. I've double checked everything and I'm beginning to think that I've been sold a bad amp.


The only question I have is does the battery + lead go to the B+ connection on the amp? If so, I'm good, just wanted to double check that.


If someone has a minute to talk me through this and has a minute to call me, please do.


214-seven zero one-2481


I appreciate any help I can get here.


Greg

 

Looks like I've got a bad unit. Thanks for the help Nutz and Mike.

 

Ok. Now I'm thoroughly lost on this. I went and bought a Kicker amp and installed it. Same exact thing, no power. I ran the ground straight to the battery - and it blows the 30 amp fuse immediately. Everything is connected properly, I've checked and rechecked several times. What am I missing?

 

That sounds like a ground fault. Are you sure the insulation on the wires didn't get nicked while you were pulling it?

 

Positive. I ohmed them out to make sure and it's open. When I hook the ground to the chassis ground, it won't blow the fuse, but its not showing 12V to turn one the amp. Hook it to the - side of the battery and it will blow the fuse.

 

Just to make sure we're using the same terminology, when you say it shows open does it show zeros or OL? When you say it reads open I take that to mean there is not continuity...as in it's an open circuit.

 

With the return wire (ground lead) disconnected, ohming from the + battery terminal to either the chassis ground or the - battery terminal, I'm reading OL (as in open circuit which should be expected). With both leads disconnected and ohming to chassis, also reading OL (as it should). Hook up the power line to the + battery terminal and the return/ground to the chassis I'm reading 0V. As soon as I hook the return/ground to the - battery terminal, it blows the 30A fuse, like there is a direct short without anything powered on.


Hope that makes sense. I'm giving up for the night. I'm going to start over tomorrow. Thanks for the help, again.

 

Not to be a wise azz but the - wire coming from the battery is hooked up to the GND terminal on the amp correct?
The only way that you can keep blowing fuses is if the + is shorting on the frame or the + - are touching somewhere since it is doubtful that 2 different amps are both bad.
I would just pull the power and ground line back out and recheck them then pull them or new lines all over again.

 

Just my $.02 regarding the Fosgate Amp if you still have it. If you need the RCA connections the replacement can be ordered here. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ.../1560-56458-01

I thought I had a bad amp because I ran it for a season with high level inputs (speakers wires from factory head unit direct into amp) with no problems. Upgraded to Alpine Head Unit and amp wouldn't power on. I had to connect the remote wire from the head unit to the amp and it works perfect. Wasn't sure if you tried powering the amp with not only the power wires, but also connected the remote line from the head unit? If your not familiar with remote wires, the head unit supplies a low amount of power signal to the amp to tell the amp to power on. That way when your head unit is off, your amp is off as well.

 

Dam Puggy I'd jump in but if you have NUTZ and Little Mike on the phone it doesn't get any better than that! No worries brother! They will get it figured out.