Preparing for an install next week when I get my lowers. I currently run a 2 channel PBR300X2 amp pushing a set of Infinity Kappa 62.11i's.

I'm getting two more Kappa's and the Power Acoustik RZ4-2000D.
Looking at the rear of the RZ4 is there such a thing as 4-channel speaker level to RCA adapters, that are any different than what I have. I don't remember the gage but I think it was better than stock (20/22 gage)



Since my Kappa's are 225W peak power, what should I set my gains at if the amp is 250W.

I found it hard to connect the speaker level to the screw-type gold plated terminals on the Kappa's. Wires kept getting frayed. What is the best cables out there to use for my new system?

Also the PBR300X2 amp says it uses (recommended) 50 A fuse, but the RZ4 says 30A x 2. So I need to remove the 50A fuse, and then put in 2, 30 amp fuses, right?

Also, since I'm opening up my fairing I want to address a noise and whine I'm getting from the left speaker. What should I look for?

Just trying to cover my bases. I hate getting in the middle of an install and realize I forgot something.

 

Try tinning your speaker leads with solder, it keeps them from fraying. 16 gauge speaker wire is what I used. I had a 30 amp fuse on my PBR and simply replaced the amp with the RZ4. The RZ4 is bigger, and won't sit directly on top of the head unit. I spaced mine up some with a piece of 1x4. You'll have to take the 'handles' off the amp. Fuse sizes are dependant upon wire size, #10 AWG is good for 30A.

 

to OP:
I ran PBR before SS - now RZ. all with the same powerlines (RF 10G set). Totally fine. Amperage usage provided is for MAX usage with usually a test signal like 50Hz. normal music usage, even load, will not get remotely close to the max Amp. you are fine, no worries about the fuse value.

Read the sticky on how to dial in. IMHO it does not really matter if you are using the RCA inputs on the AMP (provided that your HU has RCA aka line outputs; when stock, it DOES matter).
Mine with the 4V line outputs I got set at around 2-3pm / 8-9am (the gain pot meter). this gives me my "max undistorted" around 40+ volume (out of 62) on my aftermarket HU. if I would increase the gain on the amp, the max volume on the HU I could use would go down and v.v. right ?
I got both fiters set to AP. depending on your likings you might want to set the front on HP. that way you are not "slamming" your front speakers...

 

I don't see AP. I see HP, LP, and F. I assume we talking about where it says Front X-Over, and Rear X-Over? Do you mean you have yours on LP? What is the difference?

 

HP - High Pass
AP - All Pass
LP - Low pass

Most of us either run our speakers HP set at 80-100 hz or AP.
AP is the same as flat or full pass depending on the nomenclature of the amp. AP is mostly used on our systems because most of us run full range speakers without a sub and we need all the low frequency output the speaker can give us. LP is obviously for subs if you got em and filters out the high notes. HP set at 80 Hz filters out all the low notes below 80 hz. or better yet the unnecessary low notes. AAWAV is probably sleep. . .lol

 

yes but not necessary. PAC SNI-10. Just use the speaker level inputs to the amp. This is assuming you have a stock head unit. If you have an aftermarket head unit with RCA outputs, then use the RCA outputs to your amp inputs.

you should not set your gains based on what someone else tells you. Look in the sticky section above. there are 2 methods to set your gains. Just make sure you disconnect your rear (or fade all the way to the front) set that gain, then do the same for the rear. Then set your fader back to middle position. On 4 channel amps you should always set front and rear gains independent of each other even if using the same speakers front and rear.

16ga speaker wire is perfectly fine just tin the ends of the wire that go into any screw type terminals. Tin means to solder the tips. This gives the screw something solid to bite onto. There are also connectors you can use for this but I choose not to use them as it creates one more failure point.

no way in hell I'd use a 50A fuse on a PBR300x2. That amp will never draw more than 10A unless the main power wire shorts directly to ground. What's in the amp from the factory is a 25A fuse. I always put a fuse 1 size smaller at the battery so that if the fuse does ever blow, I simply pull the seat, change the fuse and be on my way instead of having to pull the fairing apart. Same goes with this RZ4 amp. That thing will NEVER draw 60A. Replace your 50A fuse with a single 25A fuse at the battery and move on.

where is your main amp ground wire? If it's running any where besides directly to the battery then re-run it directly to the battery. Make sure if you're using RCA cables that you tape up any metal portions of that connection. 1 to make sure it doesn't come disconnected and 2 to isolate that from accidentally touching metal any where.

looks like you pretty much have it covered.