OK - I'm doing the usual oil/filter change and I drop all three oils, and while the derby was off I adjusted the clutch stop screw, after loosening the cable adjuster.

>Run it in till you feel resistance, back out 1/2 turn, lock down the jam nut while holding the screw<

I go to readjust the cable and I can't get enough adjustment. I completely unscrew the adjuster and still need more.

What gives? It works and drives, but now with about two threads in the adjuster I have at least a 1/4" of slop in the lever.

I could see if I cranked the stop screw in too far it would keep the clutch engaged, but...

How is it possible to create more cable length when you unscrew the adjuster further?

What have I done wrong?

 

Did you loosen the cable first? The book tells you to put loads of slack in to have lots of freeplay at the lever, then make the adjustment. In my experience, 1/2 turn to 1 is too much, I go 1/4 to 1/3....






An alternate method from this and other sites:

Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with light force.

3) After breaking the clutch lock nut loose,turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in with the allen wrench while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut in this position while holding the adjuster in place so it doesn't move. Easiest done with a "T" handle allen wrench.

4)Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16"-1/8" free play and lock the lock nut on the adjuster. Slide the protective cover back over the adjuster.

You should be good to go .

Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.

 

I'll try again - Thanks.

 

Got it - I like the second method better than the service manual version.

Thanks Again!

 

I think alot of the probs on here with clutch adjustment are from adjusting a warm clutch. If you warm the bike to change oil in the primary let it set until it's cool, overnight even to do the clutch adjustment

 

Many thanks to "up2nogood22" for the above post. I did my 10K service over the w/e (since it has been rain/showers/drizzle all Memorial w/e up here), and could not get the clutch to adjust via the service manual. After adusting per the above post, all works perfectly.

 

You DO NOT hold the lever against the bar while adjusting the center screw. That puts an excessive amount of play in between the adjuster/ pushrod/ ramps and will require the cable adjuster to be even longer than it needs to be.

Loosen the cable adjuster all the way, loosen the jamb nut and run the center screw in until the clutch spring starts to move. Pump the lever a few times to seat everything. Loosen the screw then back in until light resistance is felt then out 1/2 to 5/8 of a turn and tighten jamb nut. Now adjust cable to get 1/16" - 1/8" free play at lever.

That is the CORRECT way to adjust a clutch on a room temp bike!

 

Doc - thanks for the tip. I'll try this method next, as its time to do my 10K and I'm getting a little surge on take offs The clutch slips just like you want it to upon releaseing it - then at the last moment it grabs/surges. Not liking it too much.

I'm running B&M Quickshift tranny fluid in the primary. I'm not sure if its the fluid or the adjustment.

 

A little of both probably, I run Trick Shift too and it does tend to grap a little at the end when its cold.

Readjust it, it should get better.

 

Doc,
So after you turn the screw in until the spring starts to compress,
you then lossen it? How much do you loosen it?
Then you do the same thing again?
Never did it before bro'

Pete