forward control advice
#1
02-12-2010 | 08:06 PM
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 226
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From: Highland, IL
forward control advice
Heres the deal I want\need forward controls. Ive been searching the forum for a couple of hours and can not find the answers im looking for. Has anyone used the cheap versions from ebay? What were your results? I know I know you get what you pay for but I dont see a difference in these and any others besides the price. Also i do not at all feel like removing the primary. I could probably handle it but it would be easier for me right now to get a set that will go on in an hour or so. I like the kurys but if these work just as good for the same price why pay more right. Pics would be appreciated.
Thanks in advice.
By the way I have a 2009 FXDC.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FOR-1...item1c0ff4605e
Thanks in advice.
By the way I have a 2009 FXDC.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FOR-1...item1c0ff4605e
#2
02-12-2010 | 08:33 PM
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,579
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From: Ft. Hood, Texas
#3
02-12-2010 | 08:58 PM
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 249
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Heres the deal I want\need forward controls. Ive been searching the forum for a couple of hours and can not find the answers im looking for. Has anyone used the cheap versions from ebay? What were your results? I know I know you get what you pay for but I dont see a difference in these and any others besides the price. Also i do not at all feel like removing the primary. I could probably handle it but it would be easier for me right now to get a set that will go on in an hour or so. I like the kurys but if these work just as good for the same price why pay more right. Pics would be appreciated.
Thanks in advice.
By the way I have a 2009 FXDC.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FOR-1...item1c0ff4605e
Thanks in advice.
By the way I have a 2009 FXDC.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FOR-1...item1c0ff4605e
Originally Posted by WS6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444229229 3&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302288287&ASSORTMEN T%3C%3East_id=2534374302288287&bmUID=1224980167820 &bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=25343743 02291395&bmUID=1224980000342&bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/2760/afterapril2020081020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/4373/saturdaymarch292008059kp3.jpg
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444229229 3&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302288287&ASSORTMEN T%3C%3East_id=2534374302288287&bmUID=1224980167820 &bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=25343743 02291395&bmUID=1224980000342&bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/2760/afterapril2020081020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/4373/saturdaymarch292008059kp3.jpg
#4
02-14-2010 | 09:41 AM
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: Highland, IL
Thanks guys. I looked in to what WS6 said and thats a good idea, but i think ill try the kuryakyn set. By the way that was a creative idea with the skull medallion over the old mid shift lever.
WS6 is that a custom paint job on your lowrider? I never liked green bikes until i seen yours. nice rides guys
WS6 is that a custom paint job on your lowrider? I never liked green bikes until i seen yours. nice rides guys
#7
02-14-2010 | 09:58 AM
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
Likes: 487
From: Richmond, VA
That kit you posted is the EXACT kit I bought off ebay and instaled this fall. Its a great kit, I even bought and installed that little cap they show in the auction. It was made by V-Twin and came in the usual orange box. Simple 1 hour install, great chrome and very comfortable. Heres some before and after pics of it installed on my Low Rider.
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#8
02-14-2010 | 10:13 AM
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: Highland, IL
Actually everything is lately.