H.D. 10 Row Oil Cooler
#1
H.D. 10 Row Oil Cooler
I got a good deal on a new discontinued Harley Davidson 10 row oil cooler on eBay, local seller listed it as a relocation kit so nobody else bid on it. Went down and picked it up, then installed it. I just need to clean up the wiring to the voltage regulator. ("Detail's" below)
Below you can see where I shimmed the motor mount (gold washers) Originally the motor mount was preloaded from the factory. Many have had the motor mounts fail, most likely from being preloaded, it was loaded in such a way that the mount was being pulled apart. I did this when I first bought the bike, found the preload when I removed the California only vapor cannister (this is the original mount with 17,000 miles).
Next two photos below are of the same oil cooler installed on someone else's bike with the clutch cable in the original position (cable is pushing on the oil lines).
Below, I had to move the clutch cable to the outside of the frames cross brace to clear the oil lines, it was on the inside before like the two above photos. Removed the original bulky clamp and used a tie wrap, tie wrapped the cable then inserted the pig tail of the tie wrap through the hole in the cross brace and used another tie wrap head to secure it on the inside of the frame brace.
Removed the original clutch cable supports and used some tie wraps and fuel line to space the clutch cable away from the frame. Mainly did this for appearance and easy access for clutch adjustment, clutch line is now parallel to the frame, rubber boot is no longer crushed against the frame, and you don't have to remove clamps to adjust clutch cable.
Below you can see where I shimmed the motor mount (gold washers) Originally the motor mount was preloaded from the factory. Many have had the motor mounts fail, most likely from being preloaded, it was loaded in such a way that the mount was being pulled apart. I did this when I first bought the bike, found the preload when I removed the California only vapor cannister (this is the original mount with 17,000 miles).
Next two photos below are of the same oil cooler installed on someone else's bike with the clutch cable in the original position (cable is pushing on the oil lines).
Below, I had to move the clutch cable to the outside of the frames cross brace to clear the oil lines, it was on the inside before like the two above photos. Removed the original bulky clamp and used a tie wrap, tie wrapped the cable then inserted the pig tail of the tie wrap through the hole in the cross brace and used another tie wrap head to secure it on the inside of the frame brace.
Removed the original clutch cable supports and used some tie wraps and fuel line to space the clutch cable away from the frame. Mainly did this for appearance and easy access for clutch adjustment, clutch line is now parallel to the frame, rubber boot is no longer crushed against the frame, and you don't have to remove clamps to adjust clutch cable.
Last edited by WS6 Formula; 08-03-2010 at 11:02 PM. Reason: Replaced missing photo
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#6
Thank you for sharing, that is some great info. That will be one of my projects in the near future for sure. In reference to the motor mount, how can one check to see if it is preloaded? I have heard of the failures but never an explanation as to why or how to prevent it.
#7
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#8
Thank you for sharing, that is some great info. That will be one of my projects in the near future for sure. In reference to the motor mount, how can one check to see if it is preloaded? I have heard of the failures but never an explanation as to why or how to prevent it.
I wanna know what he wants to know!!
#10
Thank you for sharing, that is some great info. That will be one of my projects in the near future for sure. In reference to the motor mount, how can one check to see if it is preloaded? I have heard of the failures but never an explanation as to why or how to prevent it.