Some time ago I found a crash bar (P/N 49218-01) at Ebay and mounted it to my Dyna FXD 2003 equiped with floorboards as used on the FXDP. It fitted like a glove and so far no problems. After a long trip I found out that my front fender had a dink. After having done some research it seems to me that the crash bar caused this dink when I hit a pothole in the road. I have dismounted the crash bar in order to prevent more damage to the front fender. Now I am considering to buy inner front sliders as used on the Dyna FXDP (4th Pic item# 9) but I am not sure if these tubes give a larger travel to the front wheel. I asked FastHarley some advise. He wrote me:

"René, Your bike has the same frame as a Police FXDP Dyna Defender™ which came already with a crash bar. Please go HERE LINK: http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photo...naDefender.htm to confirm this is the same type of crash bar. If you lengthen the sliders (lowers) it would make no difference as they are the same length.
You are thinking in the wrong direction. The reason why your fork bottomed out is they are not set up for hitting pot holes. This has to do with what is inside the fork tube. For a cheap fix, leave the bar off. I am sure that HD would not allow their brand new bike in 2003 to hit the crash bar.
Have you rebuilt your forks in the last 10,000 miles? Have you changed the fork oil every 10,000? How much do you weigh under normal riding conditions? Do you ride 2-up, add gear? Have you thought about increasing the spring pre-load? Do you wish to increase the dampening (more resistance during compression) to limit the dampening? That is where you start, not by lengthening the fork tubes or anything other. With the travel you already have should suffice your application. If you are hitting really deep pot holes, slow down and go around them.
What are: buy inner front sliders as used on the Dyna FXDP?"

I got back to him but was not able to attach some pic's to the private email. That's why I opened this thread, hoping Howard or someone else can help me on this matter. Here's what I like to add as an answer to Howard:

Hi Howard,
Thanks for your fast reply.
Let me first start answering your questions:
No, I did not rebuild my forks at all.
According the Owners manual I changed the oil at 20000 miles (32000 km).
When it happened I rode solo and had some hand luggage on the back of the bike.
Before I mounted the floorboard set a had the chrome engine guard P/N 49007-90A. After I mounted the floorboards I used P/N 49218-01.
When you take a look at the pic #01 you will notice that there is a difference between those two engine guards; not only in form but also in dimensions. The smaler one is the stock engine guard, the bigger one is the FXDP/floorboard version.
The 2nd picture shows that the top mounting brackets are not the same. The non-floorboard version guard's bracket is 1 3/8 inch longer, thus giving more distance between the upper tube and the fender.
When you look at pic #3 (FXDP vs FXD) please notice the difference in space between the lower triple tree and the slider cover of both bikes. All this made me think to change the fork tubes and buy me a set of the slider tubes P/N 45365-94.
All this made me thinking changing to FXDP fork legs (pic# 4). I noticed on your site that the stock inner fork legs lenght is 24 1/2 inch. Question is, how long are the FXDP inner legs. I think I will need 26 1/2 inch inner legs. Please advise! René.

 

A heavy fork will also help the front end stop from bottoming out.

 

i had the same problem before my wreck. the crash bar that's made for the wideglide (fastens to the frame with u-bolts) will do this to your fender. i ended up using the one that bolts to the same holes as the forwards would, and 600o miles later, i have no dents. must be something to do with the wideglide front end not compressing as much, or being taller?

 

FXD2003Rider, Rene’ Let me address the first things you should think about. When putting on parts not made for the bike in question, always check clearances. I have found in the aftermarket field, check anyhow. But let us get started.

• Put your bike on a table & make sure the eyes are properly secured to the table by good thick washers that will spread the load. You can also use a motorcycle trailer.
• With the crash bar in place (the one you wish to use) pull the fork tubes to collapse them to determine what your travel is. Use ratchet straps & affix them to the top of the bottom tree using soft ties.
• Pull the bike side to side while tightening the straps thus simulating travel.
• If your fender comes in contact with the crash bar (naturally stop before) than you must either:
  • buy a new crash bar made for this application
  • Modify the crash bar to allow full travel
  • Lengthen the fork tubes to allow full travel
  • Make a droop limiter (which is highly not recommended) so when you lengthen the fork tubes the bike still sets the same but you have less travel
• You need as much travel as you can get especially with the great handling/designed bike you have.
• If you wish to improve your suspension, tell me and I’ll post all of your options but that is not what you are asking.
• In closing you must have un-obstructive travel as every bike is made to operate under a set of riding conditions, however, pot holes are out of the normal. You would not like suspension that is set to go over pot holes.
• Find out if your crash bar is in the way of travel. If it is, make a new mounting system & get the crash bar out of the way as this is your cheapest option.
• Anything more to add, let me know.

You are thinking of buying longer fork tubes, let us work through this. Fork tubes (39mm) costs around $160/pair + $55 shipping as they will not fit inside of a USPO Flat rate box ($37). The police over there are not too happy when you start modifying the length of your suspension + Rake & trail as I have my own in-house Viking (Danish)who tells me so.

Much cheaper modifying your crash bar & be done with it.

We pull many front ends apart and I can assure you that you need to check your oil in the front end if you have more than 10K miles. Its free, pull the plugs than if the oil is clear, pore it back in! Look under my suspension and check out the bushings (7.6K miles on a Street Glide) where the Teflon is worn off. If your bushings look like these, you now know. Let everyone know what you find out. I say pull them apart every 10K miles from lots of actual experience. Do what you want.

 

Howard, Thank you very much for your expert advice! I will first do some "homework" and keep you informed on the results. Happy New Year from "The Low Lands", René

 

<<<<Your PM Q: "In the last part of your reply you mention to check te bushings and to look "under my suspension" . Could you please be some more specific where I can find this info? I guess it's a link to a picture on your website or this forum? Like to hear from you! René"

>>>> answer to your PM "under my suspension and check out the bushings"
Front End Suspension

1. Conventional Harley Stock Fork Options

X-Factor Cartridge System
..................For the photo you asked for go to the bottom of the page.