2018+ Softail weak rear brake solutions worth looking to
#1
2018+ Softail weak rear brake solutions worth looking to
Hello. Those of us who own M8 Softail models should be familiar with the fact that the rear brake is just weak. A tiny, two piston, slide caliper is the first problem.
Second, the brake pedal on the mid control bikes is level with the peg, which makes using the rear brake troublesome, so many aftermarket companies make an adjustable dog bone to raise the pedal, which is rather pointless, since you can raise the pedal just as high by loosening the jam nut behind the master cylinder clevis, pull the boot away from the master cylinder, and use a wrench between the return spring coils to turn the rod out and raise the pedal.
Both solutions will only get the pedal so high, and to the same maximum height.
Neither solves the problem of a weak caliper, combined with the pivot lever below the pivot point being too short, resulting in the requirement of tremendous force in order to fully utilize the rear brake.
I decided to design an extended lever, because apparently no one else had noticed this and took it upon themselves to make it, but after finding the HD part number, I decided to search one more time just to make sure no one else was already making this, and, I found that yes, one company IS already doing it.
So, I give you a link to the Not Made By Me, Stoppie Pedal Extended Teeter Totter Lever 9000
https://www.ajcyclesny.com/products/...AATQDWwjSZUWmM
For what its worth, I would have sold them for 60.00.
Once I get it on with sintered pads, Ill report here for results, and if this doesnt do it, Im moving to this:
https://www.getlowered.com/beringer-...BoCHwUQAvD_BwE
In my opinion, four piston fixed with sintered pads AND the extended lever will do the job, and I like this kit, though its expensive, because it puts the caliper in the factory position, and I wont have to change my brake hose, so thats winning.
Second, the brake pedal on the mid control bikes is level with the peg, which makes using the rear brake troublesome, so many aftermarket companies make an adjustable dog bone to raise the pedal, which is rather pointless, since you can raise the pedal just as high by loosening the jam nut behind the master cylinder clevis, pull the boot away from the master cylinder, and use a wrench between the return spring coils to turn the rod out and raise the pedal.
Both solutions will only get the pedal so high, and to the same maximum height.
Neither solves the problem of a weak caliper, combined with the pivot lever below the pivot point being too short, resulting in the requirement of tremendous force in order to fully utilize the rear brake.
I decided to design an extended lever, because apparently no one else had noticed this and took it upon themselves to make it, but after finding the HD part number, I decided to search one more time just to make sure no one else was already making this, and, I found that yes, one company IS already doing it.
So, I give you a link to the Not Made By Me, Stoppie Pedal Extended Teeter Totter Lever 9000
https://www.ajcyclesny.com/products/...AATQDWwjSZUWmM
For what its worth, I would have sold them for 60.00.
Once I get it on with sintered pads, Ill report here for results, and if this doesnt do it, Im moving to this:
https://www.getlowered.com/beringer-...BoCHwUQAvD_BwE
In my opinion, four piston fixed with sintered pads AND the extended lever will do the job, and I like this kit, though its expensive, because it puts the caliper in the factory position, and I wont have to change my brake hose, so thats winning.
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