Comp ramp is definitely on the list. Probably be TTS as they're readily available in the UK. Fitting heavier clutch springs initially seems the sensible way to go. Inexpensive, and if it works, happy days. If not and I still get clutch slip, then uprate the whole clutch.

 

I know the different ramp offerings are made of different metallurgy, but I am not sure what the difference is strength wise. All of them are better than the stock comp ramps. I think New Old Rider explained the differences in a thread some time ago. In my Sport Glide I am pretty sure I installed the TTS ramp with the Rekluse Torq-Drive clutch pack. For the LRS, I ordered the Cycle-Rama ramp and the Torq-Drive clutch pack.
On my 2017 RGS I did the AIM variable pressure plate and their 1375 springs with the stock 9 plate clutch. Probably overkill. Later I replaced the 9 plate with a 10 plate and the HD 1275 springs. For what I ended up spending on the AIM and the 10 plate I could have purchased the Rekluse. The AIM variable pressure plate is centrifugal, so the lever pull increases as the RPM's increase. The one advantage the hydraulic actuated clutch has over the cable is the ability to lighten the lever pull by changing the slave cylinder. I think the cable models are close to being as light as they can be from the factory. I am putting the RGS back together now with plans to sell it. I have a slave cylinder and hydraulic line to install that came from a 2015 RGS that is basically the same as the AIM slave cylinder.
Your plan to install heavier springs is a good one. They are simple to install, it can be done without removing the outer primary cover if you do them one at a time. It might be recommended that you do this prebuild to see if the additional clutch pull is agreeable to you. I am inserting the clutch pull chart for the SE springs.



I am also inserting the spring pressure chart for the Rekluse Torq-Drive pack.



A 4% additional clutch lever pull over stock is 15.184 lb. You can achieve the approximate stock 114" holding power with 30% less pull, which is 10.22 lb. Even the light spring pull is a mild 13.4 lb. That will get you 40% more holding power than stock 9 plate, so 12% more than the the 1275N springs from Harley with 3.6 lb. less lever pull. Whether or not the additional lever pull is acceptable, is dependent on grip strength and the conditions you ride your bike in. If you ride on wide open roads with few stops, then a heavier lever pull isn't too much of a detriment. If you ride in urban traffic where you have traffic jams and may have to pull the clutch in quite often and sometimes hold it in, then the heavier lever pull becomes taxing. If I was riding in stop and go traffic daily, I would look at the RadiusX clutch. Being able to stop without pulling the clutch and then take off again would help reduce fatigue dramatically.

 

My 114 FXDR made 129/132 SAE on Dynojet UK Preston Dyno
CR485/S&S 55mm manifold /stock TB 6.2inj,also TTS UK comp ramp /SE1275N clutch springs, S&S 2-2 Grand national pipes

Wasting your time looking @ bagger pipe combos,softails are a tough gig to avoid some early dip in tq & how loud you can bare !


Why TTS US for a tuner, i know of no-one in UK who dyno tunes with that? just buy Dynojet Powervision licence from likes of Alex @ Fastlane he will get you a map from Preston, a lot cheaper than buying the tuning device itself ,i know they have done 114 & 117 with CR485 just exh is the main variable
it pulls real hard & smooth & i get nearly stock fuel milage
My mate has an Indy HD shop one of his customers 22 FXLRST/CR485 stg 2 is having an S&S132 cyl/piston kit upgrade, should turn out nice APE just done similar build on a bagger ref their FBook pg

 

Not sure what you mean by bagger pipe combos. I want a 2:1. More efficient and saves weight. Is that a bagger pipe? Dunno.
6.2 seem big injectors. With stock displacement I wan't planning on more than 5.5. Given up on the idea of larger throttle body. Unnecessary. But I will go with a flowed S&S, stick size.
The TTS tuner appeals because it's a more comprehensive module that allows for future upgrades. I've tuned several big metric bikes and always favoured custom remaps over Dynojet/Power commander modules because they never produced as good a result as custom mapping and the TTS comes closest to that. That said, I'm conscious that I'm maybe carrying a prejudice over from previous experience with very different bikes, because that's all I know. Hence asking the question. That said, I'll sound out Fastlane and see what they say. Good to have some UK contacts.

 

Your link 114/CR485 2-2 was a bagger with KW mufflers /spoon baffles
My S&S 55mm manifold is not ported fyi
You looking @ Sawicki mid length 2-1 ?

 

For where you ride at rpm wise, no one has mentioned the WD777 or the Feuling 508…..

 

Ah the vid. I see what you mean. I didn't read the spec properly before I posted that one.
Yes Sawicki Mid 2-1. Never used to like them, the look or the sound, but the latest ones are a vast improvement (company under new ownership?) and they've come top in Blockhead pipe shootouts. And I like that they can have a detachable end cone so they can be packed.
It was neck and neck with a Jackpot Riot because they perform so well for the money, but in the end the Sawicki edges it because I prefer an up-swept pipe.
Doubt I'll find one off the shelf in the UK so I'll probably have to import (it will be interesting to see how the up-coming political situation both sides of the Atlantic effects that one - assuming the internal combustion engine isn't about to be banned outright in the UK..)

May pack it, may not. Try it and see. And I may Ceracoat or may not. But if I do, it will be quicker and cheaper to do both over here when the pipe arrives.

 

Pipe wise looks like Sawicki would be a direct order from them, also as you mention that Blockhead test, have you seen their new pipes quite reasonable with ship to UK, i like there mid pipe bomb think that is the tech Chris's desired performance offering £1120 shipped then + import tax here
on my 131 12:1 FXLRST went with a Thunderheader looks are subjective (but i wanted large headers) i know, but Dennis Kirk has a regular trickle in stock ships to UK gave about 10% discount, as comes black /steel can always re-coat
dyno guy commented how thick the gauge of metal was when drilling headers for sensor rivnuts

 

My first choice of pipe was a Thunderheader High pipe. Proven performance and the high level line would look fantastic on the LRS as I'm not bothered about fitting luggage or taking pillions. But the high version is like hen's teeth. No one seems to stock it and I wonder if they still make it. The mild steel did put me off a bit I must admit, being in damp and rusty UK. My perfect pipe would be a High pipe replicated with a stainless muffler and titanium headers and link pipe that go blue with heat.
The Blockhead pipe is an interesting option. The shorty variant looks remarkably like a rebadged Jackpot Riot... I wonder, since as far as I know that's one pipe they've never had in their shootouts. It's about the same price too. I do like the look of the mid length bomb though. Definitely something to think about. I'd rather have a longer pipe than shorter and their mid fits the bill. Looks good too. I like that the Sawicki mid is upswept and the fact it has a removable end cap and can be packed, but the Blockhead mid bomb is definitely food for thought.
Haven't been on Blockhead's Youtube channel for a while but I'll take a look.

 

There is also Red Thunder. Pricey, but work very well.
https://redthunderexhaust.com